HUNGRY GERALD

“Dairy Restaurants” were once abundant in New York—and HG enjoyed them. They were kosher–no meat. Specialties included kasha varnishkes, blintzes, pierogies, kreplach (stuffed with cheese); gefilte fish, soups (ice cold summer beet borscht and schav). Schav was sorrel soup and both soups were accompanied by boiled potatoes and sour cream. Almost every dish was enhanced by sour cream (“smetana”). Breads were fabulous–onion rolls (“pletzels”); bagels, bialys, sliced pumpernickel and Jewish rye bread. There was lots of cream cheese, pot cheese, cottage cheese, farmer cheese and, sometimes, roquefort. The two best “Dairys” were Ratner’s and Rappaport’s on the lower east side. The upper west side had the “Famous” on W.72nd (superior gefilte fish). Steinberg’s on the west side catered to classy customers. Sadly, all of these restaurants have vanished. One splendid dairy remains; B & H Dairy at 127 2nd Ave.(Yes, there are eateries called “Dairy” but they are not traditional–they serve pizzas, Mexican food, Italian food, etc.). B & H is the real deal–fabulous soups and challah. An innovation–a healthy and tasty vegetarian chili. There’s a very good book–“The Dairy Restaurant” by Ben Katchor. Informative and funny.