HUNGRY GERALD

Fall River, MA (once a major whaling port), is a short drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. It is home to Portugalia Marketplace, a vast market specializing in everything Portuguese–tinned fish, slabs of dried salt cod, cheese, wine, breads and more—much, much more. In size, scope and variety, it resembles Zabar’s, the New York City gourmand landmark. BSK buys tinned sardines there–the incomparable Conservas Santos (skinless, boneless, in organic extra virgin olive oil). BSK mixed the fish with fennel, onions, garlic, capers and olive oil and sauteed them to make a lovely sauce, This was mixed with fettuccine–robust eating. HG/BSK  first tasted this dish in the beautiful Italian coastal city of Taormina (a vacation destination favored by Winston Churchill). Last night’s BSK version was better.