HUNGRY GERALD

BSK bought a special treat for HG at Fearless Fish in Providence. This top quality (expensive) seafood shop is the choice of Rhode Island’s knowledgeable shoppers. HG’s treat was  FF’s house made Gefilte Fish, a staple of Passover, the upcoming Jewish holiday noted for its extensive use of matzos. HG hasn’t tasted the FF fish balls (they are shaped like French quenelles). However, HG is suspicious. There’s no jellied fish broth; like horseradish, it’s the essential accompaniment of Gefilte Fish. Could FF’s version meet the standards of the ultimate Gefilte Fish cooked by HG’s late beloved Mother, Ida Kopkind Freeman? Mom cut equal parts of carp, whitefish, pike and Buffalo fish into chunks. (Mom called Buffalo Fish “buffel’—- It used to be widely available but today it can only be found in a few Chinatown,Flushing and Sunset Park Chinese shops–all in New York). Fish heads and bones were simmered into a robust fish stock. Mom chopped the fish chunks into a smooth mix (This demanded a strong arm and energy since food processors didn’t exist in her time). The fish was then mixed with matzo meal, beaten eggs, a bit of chicken fat plus salt and pepper. It was then formed into oblong shapes (like  Middle Eastern “kefta”)–head and bones were removed from the fish stock and the oblongs were poached gently until done–when cooked the broth was poured over them and put in the refrigerator where the broth became jellied (like a softer aspic). Young HG grated the horseradish near an open window to avoid being overwhelmed by fumes. Mom put the condiment in a tight fitting container. Topped with jellied broth and horseradish and accompanied by a chunk of challah, a shot of vodka and a beer chaser, this was a fabulous fish appetizer. HG got an ample portion since HG favored it over the main dish (except when the main dish was gravy soaked brisket–known at home as “gedempte fleisch”). HG will taste the FF fish tonight. Better than Mom’s? We’ll see.  Anyway, it will bring the past into HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.