HUNGRY GERALD

HG never orders salmon dishes in United States restaurants. Almost always the fish is over done and tasteless. HG thought about this last night at supper while eating BSK’s sublime dish of silky, almost medium rare, baked salmon flanked by herbaceous small sweet potatoes. The key is BSK’s mastery of timing when preparing BSK’s many dishes.  Scrambled eggs, for example. HG never orders them in restaurants. They do not have the lush and creamy texture of BSK’s scrambles ( Scrambled egg cooking is a family affair–HG, son Jeremy and gifted daughter Lesley R. all cook excellent scrambled eggs). Fish dominates BSK’s cuisine and BSK does wonders with cod, hake, grey sole, haddock, etc. BSK heeds the counsel of the great seafood chef, Eric Ripert. who cautions against overcooking. BSK’s timing is the key. (HG loves simple dishes in Paris where salmon is always cooked perfectly. A good example is Salmon in Sorell Sauce at Le Stella brasserie in the 16th. As for omelets and scrambled eggs–if you want them soft and creamy order them “baveuse” –oozing).