HUNGRY GERALD

Cod is one of the most important fish inhabiting the oceans. When dried and then soaked in changes of water, it was a staple food on sailing ships. Cod fishing helped establish the Canadian provinces of Newfoundland, Labrador, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick (the “Maritimes”). And, cod is delicious when prepared in a variety of ways. Last night, dinner on Prince Edward Island was cod, peppers and onions cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. It was accompanied by lush mashed potatoes. A Wow! BSK often uses chunks of cod in a chowder or baked cod with potatoes and onions Portuguese (or Provencal) style. HG is very fond of “Baccala”, an Italian dish of much soaked dried cod cooked with onions, garlic, peppers, white wine and chili flakes. Good hot, room temperature or cold. BSK and gifted daughter Lesley R. craft excellent codfish cakes. However, the ultimate codfish cakes are served at a modest Nantucket eatery, Downy Flakes. They are served with a sublime egg sauce–the perfect late breakfast or brunch. Brandade is served in French bistros and many New York restaurants (HG always orders it because it’s delicious). Make it at home:  Cook long soaked salt cod in water and milk (add your favorite aromatics).  Boil and mash potatoes, moisten with olive oil and some cooking water. Remove cod from the sauce pan and mix with the potatoes, adding a bit of sweet cream (give it a quick whirl in the food processor if you like a smooth brandade–HG prefers it a bit chunky). Finally, using a garlic press, mix an exuberant amount of garlic to the brandade. If there are leftovers, make small brandade pancakes topped with slices of Swiss (or cheddar cheese)–sizzle them in olive oil until cheese melts and serve with poached or scrambled eggs. O Dinis, a Portuguese restaurant in Providence RI., serves cod in numerous tasty ways. Cod and steamed clams in a wine and garlic sauce is a favorite–as is a filet of crisp fried salt cod served with boiled potatoes.