HUNGRY GERALD

Toffenetti was a big (1,000 seats) glittery restaurant that occupied the northwest corner of Broadway and 43rd Street in New York’s Times Square neighborhood. It was open all night and prices were modest. HG ate there often in HG’s teen and preteen ages. It was famed for the exuberant food descriptions on its menu. This how its ham dinner (ham, sweet potatoes, coleslaw) was described: “Hot Roasted Sugar Cured Ham–Hickory smoked. Delightful beyond expression. Forever luscious, mild and juicy.  Smoking gives the ham an elusive fragrance and flavor. The King of all hams.” HG ate this dish often. Cost less than two dollars. Spaghetti with meat sauce was, according to the menu, inspired by a dish served by Count Bonpensier of Bologna (h-m-m!). It cost a dollar and was insipid but filling. Did the food live up to the lyrical hype?  No, the ham dish was quite ordinary; however the prose-heavy eatery had a long run—1940-1970.