HUNGRY GERALD

BSK is an expert at cutting the backbone out of a chicken. The result is a “spatchcocked” chicken–colorful name for a relatively simple bit of knifework.  A spatchcocked chicken lies flat in a pan and can be cooked in the oven or in a cast iron pan. It results in much crispy skin and juicy legs, thighs, wings, etc.  BSK cooked the bird two nights ago and then carved the bird and swirled the pungent juices over the slices.    Softly fried potatoes and garlicky spinach accompaniêd. A California Merlot tasted just right to drink with this lovely dish. Much of the breast was left over so resourceful BSK made a Vietnamese Pho the next night. BSK used some Pho broth from the pantry and boosted it with a spice and herb mixture.  Onions, celery, bok choy, spinach, garlic went into the pot with an abundance of rice noodles (they were cooked separately). HG topped HG’s steaming bowl with splashes of sesame oil and sriracha. Perfect cold weather food.

Yes, HG is writing about Shakshuka, the spicy comforting  tomato, pepper and egg stew that is eaten all over Israel for breakfast–at home, at gas stations, cafes, etc..  HG/BSK thinks it’s too spicy for breakfast—prefer it for dinner. BSK makes this dish expertly, making HG very happy. BSK Shakshuka stew ingredients: Chopped red bell pepper, onion, garlic, large can of chopped San Marzano tomatoes; olive oil, feta cheese, cumin, paprika, salt, black pepper and used with discretion–cayenne pepper. When done, the glistening red stew is topped with BSK’s perfect poached eggs (four to six or seven) and a sprinkle of cilantro (for color). Israelis eat this with a clump of pita or challah. HG/BSK make do with an excellent local Seven Stars baguette. (HG makes a yogurt sauce to go with Shakshuka–Ingredients: Greek yogurt, olive, oil, lemon juice, zaatar, cumin, salt, black pepper, Frank’s Hot Sauce.)  A jolly dinner enhanced by much Merlot.

B-r-r-r-r!!! Mighty cold in Central falls, RI. BSK beat the ice-covered parking area and the razor sharp winds with a pot of BSK’s fiery chili. No chopped beef in the freezer or refrigerator. Not to worry–BSK used ground pork. There were the usual additions to the meat—–chili powder, pinch of cayenne, chopped tomatoes, onion, garlic, masa flour (for thickening), etc. BSK insulted Texas chili purists by adding a can of red pinto beans. BSK never did this previously but BSK wanted a fiber rich, filling dish. Toppings were grated cheddar, chopped sweet onions, southwestern salsa. HG’s “Bowl o’ Red” warmed HG’s body and soul enabling HG to watch NFL playoff games with attention and pleasure.

The color of the soup is gold. The taste is golden. HG is referring to the squash soup created by HG’s beloved late sister, Beulah Naomi Freeman Katz. Beulah always made this soup for afternoon sipping, a few hours before her sumptuous Thanksgiving feast (The feast culminated with her pecan pie, best ever.)  The soup was very tasty and calmed ravenous pre-feast appetites. BSK has continued this tradition before Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. HG confesses. BSK’s squash soup is better. BSK’s version is piquant with the addition of a few teaspoons of Aleppo pepper.  HG cools down HG’s serving by topping it with Greek yogurt–thus achieving perfection.

The town of Taormina is one the most beautiful places in the world. It is located on the east coast of Sicily. Perched on a lofty cliff, it has breathtaking views  of the Ionian Sea. Taormina has been a favorite vacation spot for years, particularly welcoming to gays  The town is filled with important architectural ruins, luxurious hotels, shops. restaurants, etc. When HG/BSK visited yeara ago after a Sicily tour with daughter, Lesley R., son-in-law Massimo R. and granddaughters  Arianna and Sofia, Taormina was a vision in technicolor–brilliant blue skies, aquamarine sea, weathered buildings. And, of course, an element of danger: The volcanic Mt. Etna is just a few miles away. (Massimo was the perfect guide to all of the wonders of Sicily. He is a tenured professor at Brown; head of its Italian studies department; author of books on Italian culture. Plus, he spent his youth with his family in Sicily). HG/BSK lodged in a sea view room in a

classy hotel. The room felt like a bubble floating over glittering water. Exhilarating. HG/BSK’s first dinner was at the hotel’s dining room (more spectacular views).  Main dish was a Sicilan specialty—Linguine in Sardine Sauce. Wow!! Fresh sardines, fish broth, white wine, currants, raisins, onions, garlic—these were some of the ingredients HG discerned. Stroll after dinner. HG swam in the hotel pool before bedtime. Magical night. More magic in HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft last night- BSK replicated the Taormina dish with substituted (very good) canned Portuguese sardines. Dining every night with BSK  is magic for HG.

BSK usually makes fusilli-shaped pasta drenched in a tongue tingling blue cheese or gorgonzola (or  roquefort) sauce. That was BSK’s meal plan tonight after double header dinners of meatloaf. But alas, no blue veined cheese in the fridge. So, innovative BSK created a mix of feta and goat cheese enhanced with loads of capers and a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper (for heat). This was added to BSK’s usual pasta sauce mix of olive oil, stock, garlic,onions, parsley and other herbs.  Dinner was a delight, a pleasant riff on a favorite dish. As HG relished each bite, HG was reminded of the New Yorker cartoon: A Penne speaking on the phone: How you doing, Fusilli, you crazy bastard?

In the early years of our 60-year marriage, BSK cooked many  American classics. One of them was meat loaf. BSK’s version was juicy and full of flavor. HG topped it with a lot of ketchup and drank a rough 1-buck bottle of Cote d’ Rhone red. Ah, youth! Big time taste treat, as good as ever. Last night BSK revisited the past and made a big (double header) meat loaf. No ketchup. It was topped with BSK’s silky, buttery mushroom sauce. More meat loaf tonight. This time it will get tomato sauce and ketchup. Meat loaf sandwiches in future. A golden oldie.

Yes, son Jeremy and wife, Maiko Sakamoto live and thrive in Tokyo. HG/BSK’s grandkids, Haru and Teru, are growing up and are hip urbanites. knowledgeable about Japanese food, design, fashion and the efficient subway system. Jeremy and Maiko own and run their busy Brooklyn Barbecue Izakaya, Freeman Shokudo. It serves the best pastrami in the world (According to sophisticated New Yorkers who live in Japan). Take that,Katz’s!!  Jeremy makes outstanding gumbo and sometimes has it on the Freeman Shokudo menu (Appreciated by gourmand customers).  Fresh okra and shrimp were spotted in the local market by BSK. File powder in the pantry. BSK made enough shrimp gumbo enabling  HG/BSK to have lusty dinners two nights in a row.  As good as Jeremy’s? Don’t know. But it was tasty and brought back the many wonderful dinners HG/BSK had with the Tokyo emigres when they lived in Tokyo and summered on PEI. HG/BSK honor Maiko as the best cook in the world. (Looking forward– fingers crossed–to seeing them on PEI this summer).     INFO: Those not familiar with Hungry Gerald blog, PEI is Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest and most serene province. It’s a true island–washed by the seas and criss-crossed by rivers, lakes and bays. HG/BSK have an oceanfront home there which they share with their family.            

 HG/BSK live in “The Ocean State” (Rhode Island) and on Canada’s Prince Edward Island –heavenly locales for  freshly caught seafood. Two nights ago, BSK cooked a delicious, briny Spanish cod stew. Ingrediênts were superior cod (Whole Foods), potatoes, tomatoes, onions, garlic, celery, fennel, white wine, clam broth, parsley (and other herbs). The next night there was breaded and sauteed flounder. There was a tasty melange of vegetables plus Israeli couscous. HG gave the cod and flounder hearty shakes of hot sauce. Yes, indeed!! Tonight, BSK is emulating Son Jeremy’s shrimp gumbo. In the future are lobsters, squid, clams, oysters,scallops, crab meat.  Anchors Aweigh!!!

There is nothing happier (And tastier) than family Christmas presents and food extravaganza at the Riverside, RI, home (Ablaze with seasonal decorations including a glittering, much decorated tree) of gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her illustrious husband, Massimo R.  Happily, HG/BSK’s magnificent granddaughters, Arianna (Accompanied by her loving companion, Adam) and Sofia, were there. (Ms. A. and Ms. S. are outstanding( combinations of beauty and brains.) The wonder dogs, Pip and Toby, added to the merriment. The  family Christmas Eve Feast of Seven (Or more) Jewish Fishes is a long time  jolly tradition. HG ordered the Feast from New York’s Russ & Daughters (The fishes: Three  kinds of smoked salmon; sable; two kinds of caviar; whitefish salad; three varieties of herring; thin slices of smoked tuna. The accompaniments: Lemon quarters, capers; lettuce, tomatoes, onions; bialys; lots of cream cheese; Lower East Side sour pickles; bagels; celeriac salad; crepes and blini hand crafted by Lesley–and more.  Opened presents after the Feast. Generous. Thoughtful. Moderation was not observed. Christmas Day. Modest repeat of smoked fish feasting plus more present opening. As always, we collectively overdid. But. better to be lavish and not stingy. Tangy squash bisque (Recipe from HG’s late sister, Beulah Naomi Katz) was served in the late afternoon. This led into the ultimate wine and food dinner. Massimo, the “Edem” (son-in-law in Yiddish) served three great Italian wines in this order–Brunello, Barolo, Amarone.  And, the food lived up to the wines. Tender, richly flavorful Osso bucci (Veal shanks) in a spectacular meat and vegetable sauce. Massimo’s traditional (Saffron accents) risotto Milanese. Gremolata for sprinkling. Bonus: The bones contained a lush marrow. The risotto was topped with the marrow and was a treat as the rice grains drank up the Osso bucci sauce. Dessert was a superlative apple tart and a neighbor’s homemade flan. Some Amarone was saved to enliven the desserts. This was a meal “that dreams are made of.”