When HG was in college (CCNY graduate 1950) and in the immediate years thereafter, HG ate in cheap, tasty ethnic restaurants. HG knew all of the ethnic neighborhoods. Rough hewn French food favored by the crews of French liners was found near the docks in the West 40’s. Eel stew, Pig’s feet. Offal. There was very cheap Spanish food on West 14th Street. German food in Yorkville. Hungarian food (splendid duck) on First and Second Avenues in the 90’s. Ukrainian pierogi and other filling dishes on First and Second Avenues on the Lower East Side. Fried catfish, ribs and soul food classics in Harlem. Italian food on Mulberry Street in Little Italy. There was only one Mexican restaurant in Manhattan and it was terrible. Good, inexpensive Greek restaurants in the West 40’s and West 30’s. The great multitude of Irish “Bar and Grills” throughout Manhattan served corned beef and cabbage of varying quality plus hard boiled eggs and pickled pig’s knuckles. There were two Japanese restaurants–one near Columbia and the other in the East 30’s. Chinese food was centered in Chinatown. An encyclopedic array of flavors and texture–Plus shockingly cheap. New York was quite Jewish in the 40’s and 50’s. Hundreds of Jewish bakeries, delicatessens (pastrami and corned beef heaven); “appetizing stores”; “dairy” restaurants. And, more. Much, much more. There was an exodus to the suburbs. The city, the food and restaurants all changed. New York now has an astounding number of ethnic eateries. Every continent with its tumultuous cities and groundbreaking cuisine is represented. Raise your forks (or chopsticks) !!
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