HUNGRY GERALD

BSK cooked a lovely chicken curry with lots of savory sauce. This was a double header; that is, enough for two dinners (and maybe a modest lunch). Lovely dinner augmented by a chutney made by an inventive neighbor. On the next night, BSK had the nightcap of chicken curry plus a big raita salad. HG did not join BSK. Demanding HG wanted an omelet. Greedy HG wanted to luxuriate in BSK’s ultimate comfort food. BSK is a true Wonder Woman and a home cook that pays attention to HG’s handicaps.Because of cancer surgery (in 1992) and maturity (93 in November, hopefully) HG has problems in swallowing. (Oy Vey!!). Not the voracious fresser of yesteryear. So, thoughtful BSK obliges with easy to swallow omelets. Tonight’s was a lush creation with the perfect eggs folded around an abundance of feta cheese. HG ate this Lucullan delight with a dollop of creme fraiche. Hey, you know what heaven is like? Having BSK as a chef, wife, love of HG’s life.

The late, great Marcella Hazan is gone, sadly. She was the ultimate authority on Italian cuisine. Thankfully, her cookbooks live on. She had a recipe for chickpea soup that’s guaranteed to warm body and soul on winter nights (suggest you Google the recipe). Marcella often said that a recipe was “a suggestion”. It was up to the cook to make it personal and original. BSK made the chickpea soup last night and it was fabulous. HG saw BSK add canned San Marzano tomatoes to two cans of Goya Garbanzos, plus chopped onions, garlic, chicken broth—and what else? What made it inimitable? BSK cooked it and turned into a puree with deft use of an immersion blender. HG topped a steaming bowl with a splash of olive oil and a sprinkle of hot sauce. Happiness!! Marcella was a very good cook. HG/BSK lunched on splendid zuppa di pesce at the Hazan apartment in Venice. BSK accompanied Marcella on the fish buying at the Rialto market (BSK was allergic to shrimp at the time and Marcella was affronted by this). Victor Hazan, Marcella’s husband, was a wine authority and the luncheon wines were perfect. As for Marcella, she drank bourbon whiskey (this didn’t please Victor).

BSK is a wise, thrifty food shopper – BSK’s/HG’s freezer is always packed with delights for the days (or weeks given the travails of Covid 19) that a visit to the market is not in the cards. (Please note, she always uses fresh vegetables and herbs, of course). BSK often mines the freezer for the tasty dinners BSK cooks every night in sunny (but chilly) New Mexico. Recently, HG saw frozen haddock and sea scallops thawing on the kitchen island. HG was bemused. Typically, BSK doesn’t like frozen seafood as she feels the process renders sea creatures tasteless. To avert this BSK put the chopped haddock and scallops in the food processor with olive oil, scallions, garlic, cilantro, parsley, beaten eggs, potato starch, and a bit of panko. Formed the mix into modest sized balls. Poached them in dashi and clam broth. Augmented the steaming bowl with broad rice noodles, sesame oil, and chili oil. BSK transported HG to Asian heaven.

The Mayor of New York City during HG’s elementary school days in The Bronx was the colorful Fiorello H. LaGuardia, known affectionately as “The Little Flower.” Mayor LaGuardia awarded young HG with a history book and kind words of praise when HG won second prize in the city’s “Americana Quiz Contest” broadcast on radio station WNYC. Sunday mornings, HG would sit in front of the family Philco and listen to the Mayor read and describe that day’s newspaper comics. The Mayor often mentioned that he would be dining later in the day and sharing his favorite dish: Pastafazoole.
This is a robust, thick soup of beans, pasta, vegetables, olive oil, garlic, chicken stock, parsley, etc., topped with plenty of parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes. (“Pasta e fagioli” means pasta and beans so “pastafazoole’ must spring from dialect). Anyway, no matter what you call it, BSK made the soup/stew last night and HG was overjoyed. HG’s glass was filled with tasty Nero d’Avola red wine and HG toasted the memory of “The Little Flower.”

No snow yet but days and nights in New Mexico are getting colder. Brrr!!! So it’s time for comforting and warming dinners. And, that’s what BSK provides with consistency. One night there was a lusty eggplant-zucchini-onion-tomato curry adapted from a recipe by Vikram Vij, the eminent Vancouver, B.C. restaurateur. HG added some chili oil for heat ; added a dollop of yogurt sprinkled with cayenne pepper for more fire (Yes, HG is a big fan of fiery food in cold weather)). The next night there was a steaming pot of cod-fresh clams-potatoes-onions-herbs seafood soup. (HG added many grinds of the pepper mill). When temperatures plunge, BSK knows how to warm HG’s body and soul. Lucky HG.

Georgia U. made HG very happy as the ferocious Dawg Defense throttled Alabama and won the National College Football Association Championship by a 33-18 score. (Quarterback Stetson Bennett also contributed to the win). The Freeman family has had a long, affectionate relationship with Georgia. HG’s late cousin, Dr. Gustave Freeman faced certain discrimination from Ivy League schools who had limited admission policies for Jewish applicants; thus, Gustave graduated from Georgia in the mid-1920’s – he was a college boxing champion and later a noted cancer researcher, first to link smoking with the disease. HG’ s late elder brother, Bernard, graduated in the 1930’s (he was a freshman football star known as “The Russian Bull”; his athletic career ended due to a tragic plane accident; he lived but lost most of his right leg). His son, the late financial /real estate luminary, Paul, went to Georgia as did Paul’s sisters. More family followed. So, the Dawgs and the Freemans go back almost 100 years. After high school HG visited the Georgia campus but found racial segregation horrifying (‘WHITE” and “COLORED” signs everywhere). HG was also shocked by seeing a chain gang working on a highway. African-American prisoners in stripes, chained together; sweltering in the summer heat; overseen by a rifle toting white officer. Seared in HG’s memory. HG matriculated at New York’s CCNY, where leftist intellectuals would battle against any type of discrimination except merit. While watching the many African-American grid warriors on the Dawgs-Crimson Tide teams, HG mused that college (and pro) football had become a much better and more exciting game once Black people began to play a major (often dominant) role.  Blacks, of course, transformed basketball into a spectacle.

With Lesley, Massimo and Arianna R. joining BSK in the kitchen, culinary wonders dazzled HG/BSK’s wondrous family gathered in New Mexico to celebrate the holiday season. The Christmas tree sparkled. Fireplace wood fire flames danced. Pets Toby, The Wonder Dog; Pip (the brilliant Riva lady dog); Mintern (Arianna’s feline buddy) played. And, the humans? They ate and drank with gusto. Lesley made her incomparable polenta topped with a wild mushroom ragout. (BSK gave HG a breakfast treat of warmed polenta with a perfect poached egg). Lesley and BSK collaborated on lusty seafood stews plus a New Mexico green chile chicken extravaganza. Lesley made everyone happy with wondrous pasta. Final dinner was centered on Tex/Mex delights from EL Parasol in Pojoaque. (HG relished authentic Mexican menudo). This was Massimo’s birthday and he blew out all the candles on a very tasty Chantilly Cream Cake from Whole Foods (Prosecco was the accompaniment). A great finale to a memorable family gathering.

Unrestrained happiness. Holiday at HG/BSK’s New Mexico with the wondrous family: Daughter Lesley and husband, Massimo; granddaughter Arianna. Alas, son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, their children, Haru and Teru, were absent (they live in Tokyo). Also absent was granddaughter Sofia (she’s doing graduate studies in Italy). Fortunately, there’s FaceTime. Very much present were happy critters Pip (the Riva family/ dog); Mintern (Arianna’s cat); HG/BSK’s Toby, The Wonder Dog. Traditional family feasting. Christmas Eve meant a meal of Jewish fishes (delivered by Zabar’s of New York): Nova smoked salmon, pastrami spiced smoked salmon; sable, sturgeon, schmaltz herring, red salmon caviar. Side dishes of scallion cream cheese, plain cream cheese, celeriac salad, sliced tomatoes and onions, sour cream, creme fraiche. Bagels, bialys, rye bread, pumpernickel bread. Lesley enhanced the meal with delicious blini and crepes. HG drank a modest (for HG) amount of vodka chased by Anchor Steam Beer. The next morning was present time. Oh, my. Generosity. Thoughtfulness, Clothes that fit. Lovely jewelry. Surprises. Necessities. Carefully chosen books. HG won’t mention specifics because HG doesn’t want envy to sprout. (HG scored, among others, two expensive and needed gifts. Mr. Lucky!!). Lesley made crisp, non-greasy potato latkes, perfect with the remaining caviar and smoked fish. Christmas dinner was osso buco in a superlative sauce which was soaked up by Risotto Milanaise and showered with gremolata. This was the pinnacle of holiday gourmandizing. Yes, plenty of great meals and noshing. But, the real delight was being together as a family while missing Sofia and Jeremy (and Maiko, Haru and Teru). Let’s be hopeful, May we be ALL together soon.