HUNGRY GERALD

An ornament of Rhode Island is the Bristol Oyster Bar in the beautiful, historic town of Bristol (home of the oldest Fourth of July Parade). It occupies an old bank building and its 4 to 6PM “buck a shuck” event is a joy for oyster lovers. Very hungry HG/BSK and brainy and beautiful granddaughter Arianna R. arrived to feast. HG ordered 42 oysters from Rhody bays and sea shores. Plus, six littleneck clams. Wow. The bivavles were chilled nicely, shucked expertly and full of briny oceanic flavor. These were the best American late spring/early summer oysters HG ever tasted. Prince Edward Island oysters (which HG/BSK will devour when they arrive at their oceanfront paradise next week) are harvested in northern climes and are delicious in all seasons. Clams, of course, are year-rounders and Rhody clams are the best. Drank a nice bottle of Muscadet. Went on to pork belly confit (splendid!!) with pickled vegetables and waffle potato crisps. Feta cheese and tomato mixed salad. Desserts were bread pudding and cheesecake, Both very good. HG/BSK drank a glass of favorite merlot: The Velvet Devil from Washington State. Hey, life’s good.

No Rhode Island visit by HG is complete without a meal at Chonquing House, the very good Szechuan restaurant. HG/BSK began eating at Chonquing when it was located in a bleak retail strip in Seekonk, MA. HG loved the food (BSK was restrained in her enthusiasm). HG always worried about Chonquing’s future because the restaurant was inevitably empty. Sometime last year, Chonquing moved into a larger and more elaborate space on Wickenden Street (the location of a number of restaurants) in Providence. HG/BSK and the R. family dined there last year. Food was excellent. Customers sparse. Once more, HG was anxious. Decided to eat there en famille last night. Learned (happily) that the restaurant was still in business. Reservation was 7:30. Restaurant was jammed, boiling with happy customers. And, more kept pouring in. Seated at a nice round table, the group sipped good Rhode Island IPA and shared a dish of wontons in hot chile oil. And, that was it for one hour. Obviously, the kitchen was overwhelmed. When the food arrived it was sensational. Sliced fish in wine sauce. Cumin lamb. Ma Po Tofu. Family Style Tofu. String beans with pickled vegetables. Spicy fried chicken. Eggplant in garlic sauce. There may have been more, but HG didn’t take notes. Happy time. Keep those woks sizzling, Chonquing.

Tony’s Seafood in Seekonk, Ma. (just over the border from Rhody) is one of the great seafood retailers. Sparkling fresh fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Fine prepared sauces and salads. In addition, there is a carefully curated selection of wines, pastas and condiments. The owners are a Sicilian fisherman family that arrived in Rhode Island in the 1900s. The retail store opened in 1947 followed by a thriving wholesale operation. Family owned. Family operated. Service is warm, friendly and informative. For the last days, BSK and gifted daughter Lesley R. have been building meals around Tony’s sea scallops. They are big. Super fresh and juicy. (HG has posted about their use in a savory chowder). Besides the chowder, HG/BSK and the R. family have enjoyed sauteed scallops atop fresh greens and accompanied by creamy polenta. Also, in a pasta enriched by fish stock, onions, garlic and herbs. Yes, HG/BSK can obtain tasty scallops harvested off the Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia shores. And, in Santa Fe, Whole Foods carries tasty (super, super expensive) sea scallops. But, none of these bivalves compares to Tony’s wonders.

Ups and down dining in Riverside, Rhode Island. A big up was dinner prepared by Lesley R. (with some modest sous chef aid from BSK). The feature was a steaming bowl of Fregola Sarda, a Sardinian pasta. Lesley R. added some white wine to the Fregola and cooked it with a variety of good things. Chunks of swordfish (nicely underdone). Upscale jarred Italian tuna. Onions. Garlic (plentiful). Hot pepper. Black olives. Tomatoes and lots of chopped mint and basil. Olive oil was added at the table. Not familiar with Fregola? Semolina flour is formed into tiny balls and toasted. When cooked, it has a flavor reminiscent of kasha (buckwheat groats). The shape is akin to Israeli couscous but is much more robust. Sardinians often use Fregola in a soup/stew of clams, tomatoes, garlic, etc. HG/BSK cooked this at their Prince Edward Island paradise using Island quahogs from By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters, PEI. Will repeat the lusty dish this summer. The down of the Rhody day was HG’s lunch at the Blount Seafood truck near the Riverside carrousel. Normally delicious, HG suffered this visit with a heavy-crusted, flavorless fried fish. Unpleasant New England clam chowder (glutinous stuff with no brine, mini amount of clams and lots of potatoes). BSK enjoyed her fried clams and French fries. Go figure. HG had a splendid lobster roll (melted butter and no mayonnaise) at Blount last year. Will try again.

HG/BSK, during HG/BSK’s New York years, relished four landmark historic restaurant interiors. Luchow’s (long closed). Brooklyn’s Gage & Tollner’s (long closed). Plaza Hotel’s Oak Room restaurant and bar (closed except for special events). And, Keens Chop House. Still open with beautiful interior unchanged. Walls and ceiling filled with Church Warden pipes. Traditional painting of nude woman over the bar. Soft, flattering lighting. So, HG/BSK lunched at Keens with SJ and HG daughter Victoria before boarding a train for Providence. Started with a cold platter of oysters, clams, shrimp and lobster. All perfect. Drank sparkling Prosecco. Vicki had a big dish of grilled vegetables. BSK’s choice was a steak salad. SJ and HG shared the signature mutton chop with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. (crock of fiery English mustard as a condiment). HG drank some good cabernet sauvignon. Lovely New York meal. As a grace note, one of the Keens’ managers, picked up the wine tab. It was a nod to the birthday lady. His daughter works at Shuka, Vicki and husband Marc’s Soho middle eastern restaurant. If HG remains mobile, the hungry fellow will want to return to Keens one day for English cut roast prime rib (a BSK fave).