Texas barbecued brisket deserves its fame. (On HG/BSK’s annual motor trip to Prince Edward Island, Tyler’s Barbecue in Amarillo, Texas is an obligatory stop). Carolina barbecued brisket (drenched in the unique regional mustardy sauce) is splendid. Calvin Trillin, a favorite food writer, swears by the Kansas City product of Arthur Bryant. However, HG prefers above all others, Jewish style, gravy heavy brisket. Not barbecued but cooked in the oven for lots of hours with onions, garlic, carrots, beef stock and tomato sauce. HG’s late Mom called it in Yiddish: “Gedempte fleysch.” HG called it delicious and that’s what helped HG grow into manhood. (You will find a brisket recipe similar to Mom’s in Joan Nathan’s “Jewish Cooking in America”, Knopf, 1964). HG/BSK were in the mood for brisket last night but didn’t have the time for hours of cooking. So, BSK used the Instant Pot, and–hurrah!!– in one hour there was brown on the outside, lush in the inside, home style brisket. BSK was disappointed in the gravy. Thinner and less flavorful than BSK’s ideal. HG thought it was fine and it went well with a platter of kasha (buckwheat groats) and fried onions. Thankfully, there’s enough brisket left over for dinner tonight. HG will cook Italian farfalle shaped pasta to add to the remaining kasha converting it into “kasha varnishkes.) With harissa and sour cream on the table, HG looks forward to more meaty ecstasy. (For brisket lovers there is an essential for the culinary bookshelf: “The Brisket Book–A Love Story With Recipes” by Stephanie Pierson. A long time pal of HG/BSK, Ms. P. is witty, erudite and eminently readable. You will be tempted to browse the book at bedtime. But, then you’d have to arise for a quick nosh. That’s what the book does to appetite.)
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