Say the word “eels” and you will usually get a grimace of disgust. The words “slithery” and “slimy” are often used in connection with eels. They got very bad PR in the movie The Tin Drum where there is a graphic scene of an eel fisherman landing his catch using a rotten, decapitated horse’s head as bait. As any press agent would tell you: when trying to appeal to the public, avoid slithering out of the mouth of a dead horse.
Nevertheless. HG states, with conviction, eels are delicious. HG has posted on the splendor of unagi as well as posting a lyrical memory about the smoked eel at the late Henri Soule’s Pavillon Restaurant. HG also has vivid memories of Matelote d’Anguille (eel and red wine stew). It was a staple at cheap, French bistros on New York’s midtown (on the west side).
Londoners, for many years, were passionate about consuming eels. East London, in particular, had scores of eel-and-pie restaurants. They served stewed eels, jellied eels and eel pie with mashed potatoes. All were served with “liquor”….a parsley sauce often spiced with chilies and vinegar. HG always looked askance at jellied eels until he realized that they were similar to gefilte fish which is properly served with an abundance of jelly, which is simply the jellied stock in which the fish is cooked. Alas, there aren’t many eel-and-pie shops left in London (there used to be 130). The most extraordinary, in terms of its ornate 1910 decor is F. Cooke’s. Find this noble establishment at 44 Kingsland High Street, Dalston, London E8. Blimey!!
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