HUNGRY GERALD

HG, the eternal romantic, and BSK will be off to Paris soon. Reason for the trip, according to HG:  The celebration of their meeting 48 years ago.  BSK,  the realist, attributes a baser motive to HG:  The opportunity to eat a great abundance of oysters in salubrious settings.  As usual,  BSK has a point.  HG likes to knock off scores of oysters in two Parisian brasseries: Le Stella in the 16th (on rue Victor Hugo)  and Le Vaudeville  (opposite the Bourse)  in the 2nd.  Stella is HG’s first choice.  Because:  The oysters are perfectly shucked and served with grace;  HG can also nibble bulots (whelks) with mayonnaise and follow with the best steak tartare and frites in town; Maitre d’ Christian is a gentleman of true charm; few tourists, only quiet upper class types.  As for Le Vaudeville: An art deco monument of nicotine stained marble, glittery brass, dark wood and comfortable banquettes backed by racks in which to toss your coat. Very buzzy. Very busy.  Very much fun. Oysters are splendid,  just slightly below Stella’s winners.  HG oyster rules:  The only wine to drink with oysters is Muscadet  (Okay, Sancerre,  if no good Muscadet is available).  The oyster should be enjoyed in its pristine state.  No lemon.  No vinegar-and-shallot concoction  (BSK disagrees).  And–Eek!! Horrors!!–no horrible, taste deadening red sauce.  Accompaniment:  Thinly sliced brown or rye bread with sweet butter.  Bring on those Belons, Papillons,  Fines Claires, Pousses de Claires and Utah Beaches.  And, M’sieu, another carafe of Muscadet, si vous plait.

§ 3 Responses to The Great Bivalve"

• carol payne says:

  January 29, 2011 at 5:45 pm

  i agree, however ,artist dick and i were in london on november 3, 1996 on our way to florence to see son and heir. we had oysters and champagne at the restaurant le pont de la tour on butlers wharf. and i have the pen and ink sketch to prove it. i have never had better they were from ireland. slurp. i agree nothing but the bivalve! no sauce!

  Reply
• carol payne says:

  January 29, 2011 at 5:51 pm

  i agree, however artist dick and i were in london on november 3,1996 on our way to see son and heir in florence. we had oysters and champagne at the bar at the restauant le pont de la toer on butlers wharf. and i have the artists sketch to prove it. i have never had better! they werte from ireland. slurp, i agree, nothing but the bivalve! no sauce!

  Reply
  • Gerry says:

    January 29, 2011 at 8:44 pm

    Yes, Irish oysters are sublime. Had a dozen at the oyster bar in Harrods food hall some years ago and the taste was unforgettable. Let’s knock off some of those guys together one day, okay?

    Reply