HUNGRY GERALD

The phrase “starving artist” is, of course, a cliche. But, like many a cliche it points to a truth. Making art in New York is a tough creative, emotional and financial undertaking. An artist, can, indeed, starve. But, it’s not likely as long as Vanessa’s (on Eldridge between Grand and Hester) is around. This was HG’s thought as he watched a thin, sensitive young man (the paint stained coverall indicated his metier) devour one dozen of Vanessa’s pan fried Chinese pork dumplings. The price of these rather large delicious items is four-for-a-dollar. That’s right. A buck. Four is lunch. Six is dinner. A dozen for one person? Unheard of. My sensitive painter dining neighbor was clearly suffering from the Missed Meal Blues. There’s lots more on Vanessa’s bill of fare: Chinese pancakes (really quesadillas); soups (the hot and sour is a killer); robust sandwiches (roast pork with shredded fresh vegetables is a favorite). Most dishes are two dollars. A few super-lavish plates are four dollars. All is fresh, hot and good. The place (naturally) is usually jammed. But, the Chinese women at the counter and in the kitchen are brisk, unsmiling and get you in and out. It’s a throwback to the days when joints—usually named Busy Bee—fed the New York masses for pennies. But, Vanessa’s is Chinese and that makes it really good. Gourmandise for a buck.