HUNGRY GERALD

European clams are blah…even in Paris and Venice. Pacific Coast clams are just barely so-so. Long Island (and New Jersey clams are very good). New England clams are sublime and those Yankees know how to cook ’em. For clams on the half shell (raw): Balthazar and Grand Central Oyster Bar (both New York). Boston: the Legal Seafood chain (the Logan Airport branch is a winner); Providence: Hemenway’s; Denver: Palm Restaurant (HG isn’t kidding. The little necks are really good..go figure). For fried clams: The two best are Flo’s Clam Shack in Portsmouth, R.I. and Bob’s Clams in Kittery, Maine (a Calvin Trillin favorite). For linguini with white clam sauce: Riviera Restaurant, Rt. 46, Clifton, N.J. (runner up to Beautiful Sharon). The biggest ever (very good) portion of his delightful dish was at a tiny shack (now closed) on the bike path between Riverside and Bristol, R.I. Clean plate ranger HG could nver finish a helping.  Steamed soft shells: No favorites…good throughout New England. New England Clam Chowder: Once more, Legal Seafood is the winner. Sad and wistful note: The lovely Gage & Tollner restaurant in Brooklyn (closed for some years) featured clam bellies sauteed in butter. The rubbery tails of the clams were snipped away and only the chubby little tummies basked in butter.

§ 2 Responses to The Clam: Where To Eat"

• Monex says:

  December 24, 2010 at 1:44 am

  ………Something about clams or oysters placed into any hot dish says fall in New England. Better yet nothing says fall in a mixed culture New England family then a steamy hot plate of clammy goodness.Docs Low-Fat Linguini In White Clam Sauce1 can whole baby clams or minced clams with their juice 1 can anchovies with their juice1 8 cup olive oil No substitutions or this recipe will become high in fat pretty fast!! tsp Italian seasonings1 large spoonful of minced garlic Found in jars at any grocery store. Pepper to tasteSalt to taste1 lb Linguini cooked 2 minutes less then the package recommends cup low-fat shredded parmesan cheese………..1 ….

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  • Gerry says:

    December 24, 2010 at 8:47 am

    Parmesan cheese (loathsome low-fat packaged parmesan which is neither parmesan nor cheese but “cheese product”) on clams? No, no no. Garlic from a jar? What’s wrong with fresh garlic and a knife?

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