HUNGRY GERALD

Like the Willie Nelson tune, HG/BSK are “On The Road Again.” Destination: Prince Edward Island Island and HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. It will be a delight to be back in Canada, a democracy with an enlightened leader. First stop on the trip was Amarillo, Texas, and Tyler’s BBQ for splendid sliced brisket, dry rubbed ribs, pulled pork, cole slaw, beans and pickles. Lots of icy pink lemonade. Tyler’s is a visit to down home America, warm, honest and tasty. Next leg of trip was to St. Louis and then on to Youngstown, Ohio. Stayed in two La Quintas and a Holiday Express, all dog friendly and welcoming for Toby, The Wonder Dog, HG/BSK’s travel companion. Yes, America has some frightening flaws but two things the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave does superlatively: Tyler’s Barbecue. Chain motels. (Great beds, TV,sparkling bathrooms, free wi-fi, plenty of hot water and ice, efficient toilets,free breakfast, modest prices). Had to make time so didn’t stop at eateries like Sawadee Thai in Rolla, Mo. or Shapiro’s Jewish Deli, Indianapolis. Opted for quick meals at Waffle House. No complaints. Big bowls of buttery grits with perfect poached eggs; softly scrambled eggs with onion topped home fries. Waffles, of course. Reminded HG of artist Saul Steinberg’s advice: “If you want to eat well in the midwest of the USA, eat breakfast three times a day.” Arrived at the Riva home in Riverside, R.I., after a struggle with Connecticut Friday night traffic jams. Brilliant (and beautiful) granddaughter Arianna was there to welcome the hungry duo with San Daniele prosciutto, crisp bread sticks, bowls of steaming chicken broth with tortellini. Warm and comforting finale to the days on the road.

There was an omission in HG’s account of cross country American dining. Had a fabulous meal at Hellenic Kouzina in Mechanicsburg, Pa. This is a Greek restaurant and it shouldn’t be missed by any traveler. You walk in, order at the counter, pay the bill. The food arrives in a flash. And…Wow!! Succulent grilled octopus, The most tender and juicy HG has ever encountered. Wonderful spinach pie, Feta and olives. Lamb kebab (served pink as HG suggested). Baba ganoush. Flaming cheese. Warm pita dusted with zaatar. The Greek classics done right. The place is BYOB so HG/BSK were very happy with a bottle of pinot noir picked up at a New Hampshire bargain wine and liquor mart. While staying in Collinsville, Ill. (on the St. Louis/Missouri border), HG/BSK supped on great dry rubbed ribs at Bandana’s BBQ (a good chain with many locations in Mizzou). Splendid cole slaw and fried okra (tasty when dipped in the chain’s hot sauce). The fried corn and baked beans sides were losers. On last day of travel made a repeat visit to Tyler’s Barbecue in Amarillo, Texas. Have raved about this place before. Second visit proved the pit master hasn’t lost his touch. The best brisket ever. The gold standard in smoked meat. Better than New York pastrami. Better than Montreal smoked meat. Heaven on a bun. Amarillo rules!!

As Robert Burns put it: “The best laid plans of mice and men aft gang agley.” So, forget about HG’s last post about HG/BSK’s high cal road food trip. Different route and had to make some tweaks. Stopped at Tyler’s Barbecue on Fairmont Boulevard off Rt. I-40 In Amarillo, Texas. Ate real deal Texas barbecue brisket. (Jane and Michael Stern, The Road Food folk, and Texas Monthly love this little place). It’s neat, sweet and clean. Folks are super friendly,. And, the brisket. The best. Smoky and melt-in-the-mouth tender. HG/BSK relished their super generous brisket sandwiches (with plenty of those burnt ends that Calvin Trillin loves); a perfect, not too sweet cole slaw; smoky beans; pickles; jalapeños and flavorful sauces, both hot and sweet. Drank icy pink lemonade. Thought about our gifted pal, Stephanie Pierson, author of “The Brisket Book” (Buy it immediately and get busy brisketing). Stephanie and her delightful, witty partner, Eric Silver, just spent some days with us in New Mexico, As you can imagine, these were days of fun, frolic and feasting. The generous duo regaled HG/BSK with wonderful wines and The Dessert Queen, neighbor Karen K., brought sublime carrot cake and brownies (from Katherine Hepburn’s recipe) to the feasts. Since Stephanie is the acknowledged world authority on brisket, HG/BSK hopes Tyler’s brisket is in her future. For her to miss it would be like an authority on modern art ignoring Picasso.