Some pleasant news for a change. The beloved Bialy is making a comeback (at least in New York, although they never really traveled beyond that city’s borders). The Bialy (full name is “Bialyostoker kuchen”) is a roll with an onion flavor (plus some fried onions clinging to the surface) and a chew like the crust of a very good pizza. It was created by Jews toward the end of the 19th century in the Polish city of Bialyostok. Jewish immigrants brought it to New York’s lower east side at the turn of the century and it quickly became a New York staple. For many decades, New York’s Jewish and non-Jewish working population started their day fueled by coffee and a “Bialy with a shmear (cream cheese).” Sadly, true bialys virtually disappeared a few years ago. Now, it’s back. Kossar’s, once the only reliable bialy source in New York (founded in 1936), closed but will reopen this year at a new and expanded space on Grand Street. Meanwhile (according to Jewish food authority Leah Koenig), Hot Bread Kitchen is selling good bialys at various food markets. In Brooklyn, Shelsky’s (the appetizing store) and Mile End (the delicatessen) are offering authentic bialys. Bagels, of course, are now universal. Horrors like chocolate chip bagels and blueberry bagels can be found at every supermarket. Of course, these bear no resemblance to the old fashioned boiled and then baked New York bagel. HG was never fond of bagels, either those of yesteryear or today’s aberrations. Always loved bialys. Kossar’s promises a revamped website for efficient ordering of bialys online. Happy news.
