HUNGRY GERALD

HG is fond of food sold out of a truck — it can be out of the back of a truck, it can be in a proper “food truck” — doesn’t matter: HG likes them all. The ultimate was Italian sausage grilled to order, smothered in fried onions and peppers and topped with hot pepper flakes and served in halved loafs of Italian bread. The sausage truck was a fixture in the Greenwich Village of HG’s youth. This very inexpensive (and filling) dish sustained a generation of poets, painters, novelists and other impecunious creative types. Here on Prince Edward Island (HG/BSK’s summer home) there are some splendid food trucks in the town of Montague. In season, there’s a truck that sells spectacular sweet corn from Blum’s Farm. For most of the year, there’s a truck offering fresh fish and fish cakes. BSK fried some of their fish cakes for dinner last night. Spectacular. Purchased fish cakes are usually inferior. Lots of potato. Minimal amount of fish. Not these Montague goodies. Chunks of cod bound with velvety mashed potatoes. BSK served them with a perfect companion: Savory mustard pickles handcrafted by a mature woman and sold at the Cardigan Farmers Market. A super condiment. BSK rounded out the meal with a big platter of steamed asparagus doused with melted butter and lemon juice; chopped salad of Kumatoes and Vidalia onions; Italian truffle cheese with a last glass of Montepulciano. Watched the sun set over the sea and listened to cellist Pierre Fournier interpreting Bach and Vivaldi. Envious? You should be.

Sauerkraut’s ascent to the heavens is Choucroute Garnie, the wonderful Alsatian dish of sauerkraut simmered in wine and then decked with an array of piggy goodies. It is always served accompanied by boiled potatoes, hot mustard and strong horse radish.

Here’s the way HG and BSK did it for a small dinner party last night. BSK sauteed sliced apples and onions in olive oil. Added Bubbie’s sauerkraut (drained) and some cups of of dry, white Riesling. Let it cook for a long, long time at a lazy simmer. While that was cooking, HG tossed some knockwurst into a pot of lightly boiling water — wanted the sausages to heat through but not burst. When done, HG browned bratwurst and some kielbasa. Meanwhile, BSK boiled potatoes and then smashed them (that’s right–the potatoes were smashed and not mashed). Creative BSK mixed the potatoes with some chicken stock, olive oil and chopped scallions. Sublime. Sausages topped the sauerkraut and the whole thing was washed down with plenty of Belgian ale. Great fun. Would have liked some Kassler Ripchen (smoked pork loin) with this dish but couldn’t find any in Santa Fe. But, we did have Bubbie’s sour dill pickles and they added to the merriment.