HG has often penned sentimental, tearful reminiscences about the days when black, lush Iranian and Russian Beluga, Sevruga and Grosrybest caviar was affordable and could be consumed in large quantities. Caviarteria and Zabar’s provided this good stuff and it became a staple at HG family celebrations. Gone are those days. Now,only Russian oligarchs and hedge fund billionaires can afford it. ( Plutocrats also lack a conscience. This enables them to eat this over-fished and unsustainable foodstuff). However, there is a silver (or red) lining. Red salmon caviar is still available, in plentiful supply and priced appropriately. Russ & Daughters sells Alaskan Wild Salmon Caviar for $40 for an 8.8 oz.crock. Zabar’s red salmon caviar is a bit cheaper but the Russ & D. product is just a mite better. There are three good ways to eat the product. HG’s top choice is with blini and creme fraiche. (Excellent blini can be made from Roger Sherman’s recipe in the Canal House cookbook). Number two is with very, very softly scrambled eggs and creme fraiche (or sour cream) and some fried onions. Number three is stuffed into a baked potato with plenty of butter and sour cream. HG and BSK’s grandson, Handsome Haru, likes to top a bowl of Japanese rice with the caviar.
Permit HG a nostalgic Beluga detour. In the early 60’s, HG lifted weights and played racquetball at a W. 45th Street gym. A companion was a large man who had a delectable job. He was a sales manager of the Romanoff Caviar Company, a leading importer of Russian caviar. Every Saturday morning, HG would bring to the gym a bottle of icy vodka, sweet butter and a loaf of Russian pumpernickel. HG’s comrade brought a one pound (yes, one pound) jar of Beluga. After their exercises were complete, the healthy duo consumed this wonderful snack. Sadly, HG’s comrade died prematurely and the Beluga orgy ended. But, Russ & D.’s product remains to bring solace to HG’s golden years.
