HUNGRY GERALD

Pete Wells, the New York Times restaurant critic, recently rewarded Blanca, an edgy restaurant in Brooklyn’s gritty Bushwick neighborhood, three stars. At Blanca, customers sit at a counter and are served slivers of “inventive” food for $195 a person. No wine on its list sells for less than $80. According to HG’s figuring, this means a check for about $800 (or more) for dinner for two (food, wine, tax, tip). According to comments by Wells’s readers, you’ll still be hungry after dinner and in the mood for pizza or a burger. The direct opposite of Blanca is Los Andes in Providence, a restaurant much loved by HG and family. HG/BSK, Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna R. dined there while visiting Rhode Island. As always, it was jammed with happy people of every ethnicity and color. Music from a Peruvian band. Los Andes is truly joyous. Once you enter, any vestige of gloom or depression disappears. HG sipped a favorite cocktail: Pisco Sour. Perfect, not too sweet sangria was poured. HG/BSK and their two companions shared some super generous portions of fresh and flavorful Latin-American and Peruvian food. A ceviche platter of tilapia, onions and herbs. A ceviche cocktail (served in an oversized Martini glass) of shrimp, squid, tilapia, mussels, etc. (HG would be happy to spend an evening sipping Pisco Sours and devouring these lush ceviche “cocktails”). Unusual Peruvian whipped potatoes with shredded chicken. A two-inch thick grilled swordfish steak. Rib eye steak (rare) from the Argentine barbecue “parilla.” Flan and an unusual meringue for dessert. Check the Los Andes website for full descriptions of these dishes and scores more. Prices are very reasonable, $30 to $40 per person (with wine). You will leave Los Andes very happy and very full. Service is efficient and pleasant. Los Andes is a professional operation, delivering excellent food with consistency. Deservedly popular, reservations are a must. Worth a special trip to Providence.

The Providence, R.I., area has become one of the great culinary destinations in the United States. In previous posts, HG has lauded the joyous Los Andes restaurant and the down to earth Blount Clam Shack. (Splendid cooking is always provided by Gifted Daughter Lesley R. at her home. But, of course, this is only available for fortunate family and friends). Before leaving for Prince Edward Island, HG/BSK, Lesley and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna R., dined at Metacom Kitchen in Warren, a town that’s a short drive from Providence. Metacom offers a cuisine that utilizes the flavors and spices of many cultures—Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, etc. Every ingredient in a Metaom dish is fresh, seasonal and treated with respect; a respect tempered by a creativity that makes it memorable. Here are some of the things the happy quartet tasted: Freshly shucked oysters on the half shell nestled on an excellent Japanese seaweed salad. Usually, HG prefers oysters to be served au naturel. No sauce. For HG, the natural brine is enough. But, at Metacam the oysters were served with a light lemongrass sauce that enhanced but did not overpower the oysters. This was followed by plump mussels, steamed in an inventive broth of green curry, zucchini, dry vermouth. Poached cherry tomatoes added a dash of color. The extraordinary broth was soaked up by squares of house baked focaccia and an herbal compound butter. Then some dishes were variations on Italian themes. Feather light polenta gnocchi in a sauce of shredded, braised veal breast; young turnips, pea greens and pecorino romano cheese. Porchetta with a tonatto sauce. Earthy tagliatelle with shredded duck confit and porcini mushrooms. There was a shift to a French Provencal specialty: Crisp fried rectangles of chickpeas with aioli. There were two conventional but perfectly prepared dishes: MK Burger, with sharp cheddar, lettuce, tomato, aioli and chickpea fries. Roasted black sea bass with couscous. Desserts were lush. Green apple cobbler with creme anglais, Marcona almonds and vanilla ice cream; creme brûlée; cheesecake with a spiced pistachio crust. Two very good Italian wines were served (both specials that evening)–a Pinot Grigio and a Sangiovese. Service was by a charming young woman. Prices were modest. Decor was soothing and contemporary. Metacom is everything a modern American restaurant should be.

While visiting daughter Lesley R. and family over the holidays, HG dined at Los Andes, a Peruvian restaurant in South Providence. Great fun. Big (huge would be a better adjective) portions. Two types of ceviche (best in HG’s memory) of calamari,tilapia, mussels, shrimp, clams and scallops. Mixed grill of steak, chorizo and chicken. Pork ribs confit. Sides of grilled plantains, yucca, sweet potatoes, rice baked with cheese. There were also whipped potatoes in a unique Peruvian sauce (plus pureed avocados). Mussels topped with chopped tomatoes and onions. Pisco sours, Sangria. Chilean red wine. Flan for dessert. A nice introduction to the season of holiday feasting.