HUNGRY GERALD

So far, this summer in Prince Edward Island has not been the most summery — weather has featured rain, wind, grey skies and quite cool temperatures. The sun appears for only a few furtive moments each day. However, the Prince Edward Island air is full of the scent of salt and flowers and the simple beauty of the island provides enormous pleasure. Walks on the bluff overlooking the sea or on the beach in front of the HG//BSK home are invigorating. Happy family reunion. Present are: Lesley and Massimo R. plus Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia (and equally enchanting Pippy, loving and intelligent dog, the perfect companion for HG/BSK’s Toby, The Wonder Dog). SJ and Exquisite Maiko plus Handsome Haru (celebrating his 9th birthday) and Teru, world’s most imperious and enchanting three year old daughter. The weather has not dampened spirits. It has also sharpened appetites. Last night, hunger was appeased by a seafood extravaganza utilizing family talents and the freshest creatures from the sea (including a halibut caught hours before in front of the HG/BSK home). HG and Massimo R. shucked dozens of Johnny Flynn’s Colville Bay oysters (the Island’s best). Profesore/Dottore/Ufficiale Massimo is as adept at oyster shucking as he is at illuminating and interpreting Itlalian culture. BSK grilled a dozen big Savage Harbor oysters. The raw oysters got a dab of BSK’s shallot and red wine vinaigrette. The grilled got hit by soy sauce. All of the oysters were consumed outdoors. Then the crowd filled the indoor dining area for appetizers: Lesley R.’s spectacular and herbaceous lobster salad plus her tingling tarragon infused Newfoundland shrimp salad. There was more: Exquisite Maiko’s halibut sashimi paired with Yuzu pepper. As always, EM’s dish afforded visual as well as culinary delight. Using the deftest knife skills, the perfect slices and rosettes of halibut were adorned by the tiniest slivers of radish and scallion. Then, on to the main dish: Calamarata in Fish Sauce. Massimo R. brought the Calamarata from Providence. A De Cecco brand, this pasta is shaped like a thick calamari ring (thus the name). Italians only eat it with seafood sauce. They are right. It was the perfect shape for Lesley R’s fish sauce composed of halibut, olive oil, garlic, onions, fennel, white wine, chopped herbs and a discreet amount of tomato. Plenty of red pepper flakes for spice and heat. Knockout of a dish. No room for dessert. But, HG managed to close the feast with a few snifters of brandy and Peychaud Bitters.

HG/BSK were at the lovely St. Peters Harbor Beach (A.K.A. The Bad Boy Beach according to grandson Haru) yesterday. Powdery white sand. Towering sand dunes and beach grass tossed by the breezes. Would have been perfect except for broiling heat. Hottest day HG/BSK ever encountered on Prince Edward Island. Even a plunge in the cold surf couldn’t cool HG sufficiently. HG/BSK’s home on the Island’s northeast shore proved to be an oasis. Shade, insulation and architecture that places windows to strategically pick up breezes and ventilation from every direction. After showering, HG listened to Scarlatti concertos and sipped Pernod (Pernod with lots of ice, cold water and a dash of Angostura Bitters) while watching gulls and herons skim over the sea. HG/BSK then proceed to a leisurely, deeply satisfying hot weather meal. Savage Harbor oysters on the half shell with shallot/vinegar condiment; grilled oysters with a dab of butter and lemon; grilled local asparagus dressed with garlic, olive oil and sea salt. Main dish was a platter of simply dressed garden lettuce topped with gently browned sea scallops. Drank some cold Pinot Grigio and finished with glasses of Argentine Trapiche and slivers of Oka cheese. Delightful dining on a rare scorcher in PEI.

Lots and lots of tasty food at Gifted Daughter Lesley R.’s birthday dinner at Terre Rouge in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. One of the star features was a gigantic, roasted marrow bone (see the photo of the scooped out bone) ordered by Profesore/Ufficiale Massimo R. The treat was the size of a dinosaur femur and was served with parsley caper salad, duck fat toast, shallot marmalade and a fried egg. Much more food. Roast pork, Smoked potatoes. Buttery mashies. Arctic char. Chicken liver pate. Cod fritters. Mushrooms on toast. Beet salad. Three flavors of ice cream to finish. Muscadet and pinot noir were the beverages of choice. Yes, there was lots to eat and drink following HG’s dining strategy: When in doubt, over order. That’s why doggie bags were invented.

Full house at the HG/BSK/GDL/SJ residence on Prince Edward Island. SJ and family (Exquisite Maiko, son Haru, daughter Teru and nephew Taku) have arrived joining HG/BSK and the Riva family (Gifted Daughter Lesley; Profesore/Ufficiale Massimo, daughter Sofia). Much laughter; gaiety, sea, sun, ocean winds, rain quickly leading to sunshine and multi-lingual conversation (English, Italian, Japanese, fragmented and newly remembered Yiddish). It all comes together at joyous family feasting. Fortunately, the group has a collective hearty appetite, serious food knowledge and cooking skills to match. The acknowledged Queen of the Kitchen is Exquisite Maiko. Talented EM has a set of razor sharp Japanese knives (dangerous in ordinary hands) and EM slices and dices with precision and art. An EM dish is not only filled with fresh flavor, it is a visual wonder. As is EM’s PEI custom, EM drove to the port of Naufrage and picked up a dozen mackerel — so fresh they were frozen in rigor mortis. The fishermen refuse to charge EM for the the mackerel as it is a plentiful but not a favored fish on PEI. Strange, because few fish are as delicious as fresh (really fresh) mackerel. Dinner started with sashimi, beautifully sliced raw mackerel adorned with shavings of scallion, herbs and cherry tomato. This was followed by another EM signature dish: Sole filets sautéed and steamed in sake and a bit of soy. EM added another texture and burst of flavor by topping the sole with crisp fried garlic chips and shio kombu – a type of salted, preserved Japanese seaweed. Lesley and BSK contributed to the meal with some lovely side dishes of snap peas and yellow beans (just arrived into season). HG accompanied the food with Shochu, a potent and flavorful Japanese spirit distilled from sweet potatos. A thoughtful gift from EM’s sister, this is a magical brew. Unfortunately, according to SJ, high quality Shohchu is not available in North America. Just as well, commented BSK, since HG doesn’t need to add another strong spirit to the HG arsenal of beverages.

Yes, berries are ripe, ready and full of flavor on Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK and the Riva family are indulging. The field surrounding the HG/BSK residence is bursting with blueberries and raspberries have appeared on the bushes lining HG/BSK’s pathway to the beach. All just there for the picking. The nearby town of St. Peters is celebrating its annual Blueberry Festival and crowds are consuming blueberry pancakes while listening to Celtic fiddlers and guitarists. Grocers and roadside stands offer baskets of juicy strawberries. And, the cherry trees are loaded with wonderful sweet and sour product. BSK’s sister, Noel and husband Yossi, have purchased a house and barn near Panmure Island on PEI’s south shore. The property is simply bursting with berries. BSK, Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and Beauteous Granddaughter Sofia did some picking there yesterday (Noel and Yossi won’t be in residence until later this year). The trio came back laden with blueberries, black currants, red currants, raspberries and cherries. BSK made jars of rhubarb and berry compote (a treat over Greek yogurt or vanilla ice cream). Gifted Daughter Lesley R. made an extraordinary cherry clafouti. More treats are in the offing. Strawberry shortcake? Raspberries with a dusting of sugar and heavy sweet cream?

Resting under some heavy weights in a corner of the refrigerator is a slab of Nova Scotia farm raised salmon. BSK is making gravlax, Swedish dill-cured salmon, a favorite summer appetizer. HG/BSK were introduced to gravlax some 47 years ago by Bibi, our delightful Swedish au pair. (As a side note, Bibi made the best dessert we never tasted: A 3 layer cake of whipped cream and fruit. Beautiful. Unfortunately, we turned our backs for a moment and our chronically misbehaving pet poodle, Peaches ate the entire masterpiece.) Typically, HG isn’t fond of farm raised salmon but this Nova Scotia variety (purchased at the By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters, PEI) is superior. BSK rubs a filet with salt, pepper and a bit of sugar and covers the entire thing with fresh dill. Places it on a plateand then covers it with a board and weighs it down with some big cans of beans and tomatoes. Lets it cure (flipping it over a few times) for a few days. HG makes a dressing of Dijon mustard, sugar, olive oil, vinegar, salt and chopped dill. Thin slices of gravlax topped with the dressing and accompanied by icy vodka or white wine is a nice way to usher in a summer dinner.

Yesterday, HG picked up a big box of first-of-season strawberries at a roadside stand on Prince Edward Island. Took a big breath and inhaled sheer magical goodness. Out of season strawberries (imports from Mexico, Chile, etc.) are tasteless with a cottony texture. These local strawberries, grown in the good red earth of PEI, are a world apart, full of juice, flavor and fragrance. A favorite dessert is a bowl of these berries sprinkled with a bit of sugar and covered with sweet cream. Very nice macerated with a bit of kirschwasser. BSK is planning a compote of rhubarb and strawberries. When HG was a little fellow enjoying summers is Rockaway, Italian truck farmers would arrive and shout: “Stromberry!!” That shout announced that strawberry season had arrived and for days and nights HG would enjoy big bowls topped with sour cream. In the kitchen of HG’s Mom, almost everything edible received the inevitable (and delicious) dollop of sour cream. In the here and now, HG/BSK are breakfasting on the berries with Greek yogurt, walnuts and honey. In a few weeks, heaven will get a new dimension. That’s when the local raspberries and blueberries appear. HG/BSK and famille pick them every day from the bushes surrounding the HG/BSK home. Salt spray from the sea seems to give them another delightful dimension.

So, how did you spend this summer Sunday? This is what HG did. On Prince Edward Island the sun was out full blast. Cloudless sky. Sea was lake-like calm. Perfect kayak weather. HG and BSK paddled happily. The water was very clear and HG saw many lobster and fish plus a giant jellyfish with tendrils three feet long. Surprised some herons sitting on a rocky point. Whoosh!! Up in the air they went and there is nothing more beautiful and streamlined than these long necked birds in flight. Paused for lunch. Spicy Korean instant ramen enriched with some slices of cheddar (a staple dish offered youngsters by Korean moms in Los Angeles). Back to the beach for some reading, strolling, beach glass hunting. Into the sea for a “refreshing” plunge. The sea won’t warm up until later in July. After an outdoor shower, HG shucked a dozen cold South Lake oysters. Chilled vodka aperitif for HG and white wine for BSK. Then a dinner of steamed asparagus with a butter/lemon sauce followed by a salad of sautéed sea scallops and lovely farmers market greens. A perfect Canadian pecan studded butter tart for dessert. HG/BSK have a library of almost 100 classic VCR films. HG has been indulging nostalgia for HG’s New York/Broadway press agent days. Watched Woody Allen’s “Broadway Danny Rose” a few nights ago and on Sunday delighted in “Sweet Smell of Success.” James Wong Howe black and white photography. Bravura performances by Tony Curtis and Burt Lancaster. Climaxed a perfect day.

Okay, food loving pals, turn green with envy. It’s lobster season here on Prince Edward Island and fresh caught lobster sells for $5 to $7 a pound — it seems that slightly warming waters has expanded the lobster population. The ocean directly in front of the HG/BSK home is teeming with the crustaceans and HG/BSK awaken each morning to the sight of a dozen lobster boats chugging about in front of their windows. Seems to be an early morning activity because by 11 AM they’re all gone. HG is taking advantage of this surplus and devouring many delicious lobsters in a variety of styles: Steamed and dipped in melted butter (garnished with lemon juice and Frank’s Hot Sauce). Mixed with chopped celery and mayonnaise and stuffed into lightly toasted frankfurter rolls. Scooped into Belgian endive leaves. None of this brings joy to BSK. The love of HG’s life is allergic to lobsters and all other crustaceans (shrimp, crab, langoustines). BSK is not allergic to bivalves (oysters, clams, scallops). So, there’s a lot of good sea stuff for BSK to relish. But, BSK still looks at HG with wistful envy as the greedy old guy knocks off some juicy lobster.

Hake is a member of the cod family, HG believes, and this firm fleshed fish is an HG favorite. They catch lots of hake in the waters off Prince Edward Island which means it’s cheap (6 bucks a pound) and always available at the local seafood shop in the town of St. Peters (a quick drive from the HG/BSK home). Hake can be baked, fried or steamed. HG likes to steam hake and HG does it the Chinese way. HG places hake filets on a mix of fresh grated ginger, rice vinegar, soy sauce and white wine. Brings it to a quick boil. Covers the pan. Lowers the heat and simmers for 8 minutes, Tops the dish with slivers of scallion (or fried garlic chips). A dash of Sriracha. Serves it with soba (moistened with sesame oil) plus stir fried baby bok choy. You can do this dish with cod, snapper, filets of sole (cut the steaming time way back if you’re using sole).