John Talbott is an eminent food blogger whose subject is Paris restaurants (also reports, with good judgment, on art exhibits). When Talbott says a restaurant is good, one can be confident that it is. So, when Talbott gave Les Saisons (located on Lamartine in 9e) his approval, it went on the HG/BSK must go list. And, that’s how HG/BSK and Beautiful Granddaughter Sofia wound up there last night. The chef is Jonathan Lutz and the pleasure begins when you walk into the simple, tasteful bistro and are greeted by Lutz’s charming Japanese wife. Her influence is evident in the “Tataki” starter, superb slices of seared-on-the-outside but raw salmon with horseradish and a delicious mound of cream sauce plus a perfectly dressed little salad. Purely French was Lutz’s pheasant pate which was served Alsatian style with a big crock of gherkins. HG/BSK agreed: as good as the fabled pate at Oyama, the charcuterie stall in Vancouver’s Public market. BSK/BGS had mains of pork (lomo) loin done Spanish style with roast potatoes and lightly dressed greens. HG’s main ( grilled durade on a chiffonade of long simmered leaks and a side of lush potato puree) clearly demonstrated the precision and imagination of Jonathan Lutz. BSK/BGS ended the meal with top flight creme brulees and HG chose baba a rhum with whipped cream and generous pours of rum. A perfect Paris evening.
