HUNGRY GERALD

Many years ago, New York’s theater district and the cross streets that extended into the far west side were dotted with plain spoken, very traditional French bistros. Hearty, affordable food and rough and ready wine. Close to the waterfront were the rugged bistros favored by French seamen from the ocean liners. Those were the places where young HG first sampled beef hearts, tete de veau and other innards plus long simmered stews. At the classier (but still economical) bistros near the theaters were where HG first tasted frog legs. HG approached the dish with apprehension. But, culinary curiosity forced HG to order a plate. HG was hooked. Whether cooked a la Provencal (with tomatoes and onions) or sauteed in olive oil with garlic and a sprinkling of paprika, HG always ordered them before proceeding to brains, kidneys or boeuf bourginon. Hard to find on restaurant menus these days (even in Paris). Thus, HG was happy last summer to find frozen frog legs in the fish counter at Sobey’s Supermarket in Charlottetown. HG ate dozens (the sautee version) before being admonished by daughter Lesley R.. Because she is the communications and marketing director for a major health care provider in Rhode Island, she is knowledgeable about the harmful effects of certain foods. Asian frog legs are harvested in dirty, fetid swamps and streams and processed in less-than-ideal environs. Eat at your own risk, said she. HG did admit to some queasiness after a big plate of frog legs. HG believes this was due to Lesley-induced fears plus an overindulgence in vodka. With these fragile justifications in mind, HG picked up a half pound of attractive, fresh frog legs at the Atlantic Superstore in C’town.They were meaty, tender, delicious. No bad after effects. Sadly, all of those cheap and tasty west side French bistros have disappeared. Only one remains, the tiny Chez Napoleon. The women who run it feature all of the classics including frog legs and brains in black butter. The menu is a roll call of old time French good things. Plus, you can get a very good souffle if you order it at the beginning of your meal. Chez Napoleon, long may it reign.

HG has no guilty pleasures. Finds porn boring. Ditto thrillers and other best selling fiction. Franchise fast food is inedible. French fries are boring. The crap that lines the snacks and candy aisles of supermarkets are a disgrace. HG hates Coca Cola and all of its vile, chemical relatives. The exception is Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray tonic, the appropriate companion of pastrami sandwiches. HG is by no means a health addict. Though 90% of HG/BSK’s diet consists of fish, vegetables, salad greens, grains and pasta, HG/BSK do eat (with pleasure) an occasional well marbled steak, lamb and pork chops. HG ignores cardiological wisdom by indulging in a number of lo-cal but high cholesterol foods like oysters, shrimp and Mexican menudo, the addictive tripe stew that is featured at restaurants near HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. When in France, HG dines on artery cloggers like brains, kidneys and sweetbreads. (Strangely, never eat them on the rare occasions when they appear on American restaurant menus). When resident on Prince Edward Island, HG eats lots of frog legs (Imported from Vietnam and sold at Sobey’s Supermarket). HG wrote about the delicacy in a recent post. Gifted Daughter Lesley R. is concerned. Always well informed on health matters (She’s marketing and communications manager at a major Rhode Island hospital). Lesley R.has warned HG that Asian raised frog legs pose a health risk since they are often raised and processed in unsanitary conditions. While gratified by Lesley R.’s concern, HG will continue to eat these delicious morsels. Will be closing in on age 87 in a few months. Something will kill HG in the not too distant future. Might was well be frog legs.

Years ago HG saw a morbid cartoon of a sad, legless frog propelling himself on a wheeled platform. HG was not amused. That’s because HG loves to eat frog legs. They used to be a cheap and savory dish served in Paris bistros (And, New York West Side eateries catering to seamen). Many New York Italian restaurants served them in a garlic-laden tomato sauce. Fancier joints called the dish “Grenouille a la Provencal.” HG ate scores of the tasty legs in a variety of ways: With tartare sauce; melted butter and lemon juice; with aioli; with black bean sauce in Chinatown. They always satisfied. The flavor is unique, like lean juicy chicken with a smidge of lake or sea waters. Suddenly, frog legs disappeared from menus. They not only disappeared from menus, they are virtually disappearing from our environmentally deteriorating world. Sadly, the frogs are now an endangered species. Thus, they have become prohibitively expensive. So, imagine HG’s delight when he spotted frog legs at the seafood counter of Sobey’s Supermarket in West Royalty, Prince Edward Island. Ridiculously inexpensive. Wary HG ordered only a half pound. As a dinner starter, HG fried the delicacy. HG believes in simplicity. The legs were dusted with a fish fry mix and sizzled in canola oil. When done, HG gave them a hit of sea salt and smoked black pepper. Poured some vodka on the rocks and set to. Yummylissimo!!! These were the best frog legs HG ever ate, plump, juicy and flavorful. HG was curious about their provenance. Thought they might be locally harvested. Called Sobeys the next day. The frog legs had made a long journey from Vietnam without losing their luster. Unhappily, their appearance at Sobey’s is sporadic. The guy at Sobey’s promised to call HG whenever they’re on sale. HG looks forward.