There are few things more warming and comforting on a cold winter night than a big, steaming bowl of smoky fish chowder. The temperature dipped downward last night. There was a light dusting of snow. Logs blazed in the fireplace. Yo Yo Ma’s musical magic (some unaccompanied Bach cello compositions) poured out of the Bose. Candles flickered on the table. And, of course, to make this tableau of New Mexico winter magic complete, there was smoky fish chowder. Here’s how BSK makes the dish. Thick slices of peppered bacon are fried until crisp. Removed. Some bacon fat is left in the pan and butter is added. Chopped onions are cooked until softened. Dusted with hot, smoked Spanish paprika. White wine goes into the pan, whole milk, a sprig of thyme and chunks of Yukon Gold potatoes — all to be enveloped in the folds of some nice fish stock. Cooked until potatoes soften. At that moment, BSK tosses in two dozen scrubbed little neck clams in their shells. As they begin to open, a pound of Icelandic cod is added and cooked for about four minutes. The thyme is removed, crisp bits of bacon are sprinkled over the dish. Some pats of butter are popped in to add golden tones. Saltine crackers and a bottle of red Rioja complete the meal. The result is warm contentment.
