HUNGRY GERALD

BSK lightens culinary labor (and intelligently economizes) by cooking dishes that are equally good for two consecutive dinners. BSK also has the knack for recycling roasts and sautés for savory Asian salads (these are salads that can happily rest in the refrigerator for a few days). BSK’s stews, of course, gain in flavor by being reheated. A favorite is rich and unctuous chicken curry (Recipe from Vikram Vij’s cookbook, Vij’s At Home). BSK always cooks enough for two hearty dinners. HG makes a raita of Greek yogurt, sour cream, olive oil, garlic, cucumbers, radishes, baby turnips, sumac and smoked paprika. Condiments (peanuts, chipotle peppers, lime pickles, Major Grey’s chutney, etc.) are varied at each dinner to prevent monotony. BSK’s Texas beef chili (the traditional “bowl of red”); New Mexico pork green chili; French-influenced beef stew (cooked in plenty of red wine); Chinese Mo Pu ground pork and tofu, are splendid for consecutive dinners. When BSK roasts a marinated spatchcocked chicken (backbone cut out and the chicken flattened), the left over chicken is mixed with a variety of greens, onions, scallions, radishes, turnips and room temperature cooked Chinese rice “sticks” or rice noodles. The salad is dressed with soy sauce, Canola oil and Vietnamese fish sauce. Sprinkled with red pepper flakes. This salads makes an excellent dinner and a pleasant lunch. Marinated Asian flank steak (cooked rare and sliced on the bias) gets a similar treatment. Confirmed foodies, HG/BSK manage to dine very well at home without long, burdensome meal preparations. That’s because BSK always merges creativity with economy.

It is early autumn weather here on Prince Edward Island. Bright blue skies and billowing cumulus that periodically blocks the rays. Tingling winds. The taste of salty seas in the air. Weather for robust food. And, that is what Exquisite Maiko is providing. As HG has noted, EM, utilizing her brilliant knife skills, turns out lovely compositions of raw fish, vegetable and herb slivers and more. A magic hand at the the frying pan, the Exquisite one creates the best tempura ever. Lighter than air and totally greaseless. But, there is an earthy side to EM, a love of deeply flavored Japanese soul food, the type of cooking an old fashioned Japanese Mom would turn out for her family. That means long simmered ox tails simmered in salt and peppered water with a dash of sake; deep brown chicken curry; hot and sour soup with lots of mushrooms; pork bellies that have been simmered, marinated, seared and stewed; spare ribs with a unique dry rub crust; pork tenderloin cutlets dusted with panko and deep fried (served on a bed of shredded cabbage and daikon radish); pancakes of oysters, fish, mushrooms, shredded carrot in a batter of flour and baking powder. For cool mornings, EM provides her own version of congee, not a puree like the Chinese but a soupy bowl of rice and vegetables. Given a dash of soy sauce and sriracha, EM congee brightens leaden skies.

Weather has turned rainy, cloudy, windy and cooler on Prince Edward Island. Time to get carnivorous. Exquisite Maiko met the challenge with a big pot of Japanese chicken and vegetable curry. This is robust food with deep, earthy flavors. Comfort eating from the Far East — a real staple of hard working Japanese families. Not blazing hot like an Indian Vindaloo but more like a stew with French influences. BSK countered with a kale and white bean soup. Diced pancetta and Italian sausage gave it meaty body. Also in the future are Vietnamese pork chops. These are chops marinated win brown sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce and lemon rgass and then grilled. HG is the beneficiay of all this savory culinary creativity. HG’s contribution is to clear a few dishes, drink a lot of wine and compliment the cooks.

Curry is usually associated with Indian cuisine. HG never thought about it in connection with Japan. Yet, curry is a staple Japanese dish. A true comfort dish most often served at home (of course there are plenty of great curry shops in Japan — like ramen, curry is one of the basics of Japan’s superior fast-food culture).

HG relishes the chicken curry prepared by Daughter In Law Exquisite Maiko. Savory. Comforting. Hearty. EM’s Japanese version isn’t burn-your-mouth stuff. If you want some vindaloo heat just add cayenne pepper to taste.

Here’s how EM does it (proportions are vague — you’ll have to figure it out by the trial and error method). EM puts two big onions and a big carrot into a food processor and chops it fine. This gets a long, long saute in butter and garlic. Then mushrooms, red peppers, zucchini, carrots, onions, potatoes (any anything else that’s in the vegetable bin) are chopped coarsely. All of this (plus a goodly amount of chicken thighs) are added to the butter and garlic semi-puree. It’s all doused with chicken broth and simmered for an hour.

After that cooking period, EM adds a package of Japanese curry sauce (S&B Golden Curry Sauce is a good brand and you can find it at Whole Foods or at any reasonable Asian market) and all is simmered for an additional 15 minutes. The curry mix is more like a roux so make sure that it breaks apart. At the very end EM adds some soy sauce and Japanese Bulldog Sauce (similar to Chinese hoisin) is stirred in. Served with white rice, chopped scallions and (HG’s choice) Indian mango pickles. Down home delight.

Unchanging. Slightly retro. HG refers to Planters Salted Cocktail Peanuts. Crack open that pop-top lid and revel in whooosh of escaping air and fresh, peanut aroma. Grab a handful and yes, they’re nice with an ice cold martini. But, don’t stop there. These nuts have many delightful uses. HG likes to sprinkle them on a steaming bowl of congee. They are irreplaceable in a Tin Roof, the dessert of vanilla ice cream, Hershey’s chocolate syrup—and crunchy, salty peanuts. They are a splendid accompaniment to chicken curry. They are a nice addition to a chicken or beef or pork stir fry. When making a chicken salad with last night’s roast chicken add Planters to a dressing of mayonnaise and chutney. Make a place in your pantry for Planters’ unassuming, pleasant little treat.