HUNGRY GERALD

Clams Posillipo was one of the long time menu fixtures of New York’s red sauce Italian restaurants that has gradually faded into obscurity. A simple dish of clams steamed in a marinara sauce. On Prince Edward Island, fortunate HG/BSK can purchase very fresh cherrystone clams (known in these parts as quahogs) for less than five bucks a dozen. So, nostalgic HG/BSK decided to revisit this dish last night. BSK got busy chopping: onions, garlic, garlic scapes, basil, parsley, oregano. (Oops. BSK doesn’t chop basil — BSK tears the leaves apart). These are sauteed in olive oil. They go into a pot with good quality canned San Marzano plum tomatoes, white wine and clam broth. When all is boiling away, the clams are added. They get a dusting of red pepper flakes plus some Pimenton( smoked Spanish paprika). The clams are added and the pot is covered. Due to the magic clam clock in BSK’s head the heat is turned off the moment the clams open and before they turn rubbery. The result of BSK’s endeavor is a dish of tender clams floating in a magical, smoky broth redolent of the flavors of Italy and Spain. Chunks of ciabatta are dunked. BSK says the secret is slowly cooking the broth to develop full flavors and making sure the alcohol in the wine has burned off before adding the clams. Whatever. Sure tastes good.

Lovely hour-and-a-half hike along the the sea shore. Did some wading and found the water surprisingly warm. Usually, Prince Edward Island’s ocean waters begin to warm in mid-July — it seems there is a very minor upside to climate change. The sea air and salt breezes sharpened appetites so HG/BSK settled down to some sumptuous dining. As a starter, BSK sauteed a half pound of fresh sea scallops (from the Nova Scotia shore) and served them over some lightly dressed butter lettuce. Then, clams posillipo, the classic Italian dish of cherrystone clams (BSK used a generous two dozen) steamed in a sofrito of tomatoes, chopped onion, garlic and parsley. BSK did a creative variation and showered the sofrito with lots of hot, smoked Spanish paprika. Great idea. This converted the dish into a super spicy dish with Spanish overtones. HG/BSK broke lots of toasted ciabatta in the mix. Hearty eating. Saved some sofrito and put in the freezer. Will thaw it in the future and poach some cod in the sauce. Should taste like Barcelona. HG will make a rough and ready rouille — mayonnaise and sriracha — and smear it on some toasted baguette. This will introduce a note of Marseilles. International fish fressing in the great, Canadian Maritimes.

SJ has joined La Famiglia in Prince Edward Island (much to the delight of everyone but especially to Haru and Teru Freeman). Birthday dinner for Exquisite Maiko and the emphasis was on bivales. Some cold South Lake Oysters. Then two old time clam dishes: Clams Casino and Clams Posillipo. These were once staples at red sauce New York Italian restaurants. Frank Sinatra particularly favored the Clams Posillipo at Patsy’s Restaurant on W. 56th Street. HG’s first public relations office (this was 57 years ago) was directly over the restaurant and the kindly owners would often give struggling HG a free lunch of their delicious (and filling) Tagliatelle Bolognese. BSK followed Patsy’s tradition of clam excellence. BSK’s Clams Casino were enriched by freshly ground bread crumbs and very good Canadian back bacon. Fresh garlic and tender little clams aided the Posillipo and lots of good ciabatta was dipped in the savory tomato sauce. The meal ended with buttered corn on the cob from Blum’s farm truck that parks daily in the little town of Montague. Is there a better August treat than freshly picked corn? The birthday corn had particular savor because six-year-old Haru (a burgeoning swim star) aided in the shucking.

Clams Posillipo used to be on the menu of every Italian restaurant in New York. Disappeared in recent years (along with a number of other tasty classics). BSK revived it last night due to the availability of juicy (and inexpensive) Prince Edward Island little neck clams. The dish is simple. Clams in the shell are cooked in chopped canned tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, parsley and a bit of clam broth (add some tomato paste for a thicker sauce/soup). Hot pepper flakes sprinkled on top to taste. Accompanied by plenty of crusty bread for dunking.

Earlier in the day, BSK made a big batch of pesto with freshly picked basil and walnuts. Mixed it with spaghetti, yellow beans, halved cherry tomatoes and tiny (scrumptious) PEI potatoes. Drank lots of Chilean red wine.

HG relished these Italian classics. A tasty voyage into the past.