HUNGRY GERALD

HG’s final day of East Coast holiday feasting turned out to also be one of travel. Bus from Providence to Boston Logan Airport (via the very efficient Peter Pan line). Some six 1/2 hours of flight (with a 45 minute layover in Denver) on Southwest, the consumer friendly airline that does try to make flying a pleasant experience. HG/BSK continued to have nice airport dining experiences. Breakfast at Vineyard Grille in Boston consisted of gently soft scrambled eggs (as requested) with bacon in a garlic scented tortilla wrap. An abundant side of a crisp potatoes akin to a Tater Tot. Plentiful coffee and attentive service. Gave HG/BSK sufficient sustenance for the lengthy voyage ahead. However, HG/BSK did regret the timing. For some years HG/BSK would always have an oyster, clam chowder, fried squid feast at the Legal Seafoods airport location. Had to pass on it this time. Arrived at the HG/BSK New Mexico home in chilly 15 degree weather. Toby, The Wonder Dog, greeted the duo with ecstatic affection. The two lovely and talented women, Vicki B. and Sarah N., who occupy the home when HG/BSK travel or vacation, left some treats to welcome the home comers. Posole (vegetarian version by vegetarian Vicki and meaty, pork version by carnivore Sarah) had mucho heat and lots of New Mexican flavors. There were also nut bars baked by Vicki (spectacular). HG/BSK drank a fine Chilean red wine, wished each other a happy and healthy 2015. Nestled in their comfy bed. Home sweet home, indeed.

HG is downcast. Boston’s Locke-Ober, the great, venerable (in business for almost 150 years) restaurant has closed and its equipment and memorobilia are being sold. Another wonderful, gracious culinary landmark has bitten the dust. Ah, Locke-Ober. Heaven on a cold New England night. Dark wood. Old paintings. Big, comfy chairs. Soft lights in old fixtures. Professional waiters. And, the food. Oysters and clams from the New England coast, briny, cold and shucked with finesse. Old fashioned dishes like Lobster Savannah; calf’s liver with bacon and onions; broiled Boston scrod. The best gratin dauphinois this side of Paris. Perfect, crisp onion rings. A wide selection of foraged wild mushrooms. One of the few places in the United States where steak tartare was done right. And, HG’s favorite dessert, a house specialty: Indian Pudding topped with creamy vanilla ice cream. HG must stop. Eyes have become misted.

Of course, the most soulful sole is Dover sole. But, this should only be eaten — at a great price — in London (even though HG once had some splendid Dover sole at Legal Seafoods in Boston). Folks in the northeast can enjoy firm fleshed Atlantic Flounder filets. In Vancouver, HG developed a taste for sauteed brill, a sole-like Pacific flatfish. But, the closest thing to authentic Dover sole is Petrale sole from the waters off northern California. HG first had Petrale sole at the venerable Tadich Grill in San Francisco’s financial district. HG preceded the beautifully cooked fish with a few sloe gin fizzes, a delightful house specialty.

Petrale sole makes an occasional appearance at the Whole Foods fish counter. When that happens, HG pounces upon it. A quick dusting in flour. Swift saute. A generous topping of melted butter, capers and lemon juice. Finny perfection.