HUNGRY GERALD

HG/BSK tasted Padron peppers for the first time in Madrid a few years ago. After hours on the majestic city’s museum row (the Prado and other wondrous venues) HG/BSK settled down for a late lunch at a busy, plain spoken Galician bistro. Grilled Chorizo. Shrimps in garlic sauce. Very tender Polpo Gallegos (octopus cooked in the Galician style). A big pitcher of Sangria. Good bread. And, a platter of Spanish Padron peppers fried in oil and garlic until they blistered. They were a taste revelation and HG wolfed down a dozen before a hot specimen set HG’s lips aflame. And, so HG discovered the Spanish saying (which applies to any number of experiences and persons), “Some Padrons are hot. Some are not.” You can’t tell by appearance. You only learn the truth by tasting. Last year, BSK ordered these peppers at Bones, the very good Asian fusion bistro in Denver. BSK had enjoyed the dish there many times. On this occasion, however, BSK swallowed a pepper so hot that BSK almost lost consciousness and was left with a severe and ringing headache. A stroke was feared. Since then HG/BSK have become pepper cautious. Most of the time BSK buys Shishito peppers at the Santa Fe or Pojoaque Farmers Markets. These peppers are an East Asian variety transplanted to the United States. They are very similar to Padrons, slightly smaller, never hot (and in HG’s opinion, slightly less tasty). Last night, BSK took a chance and fried a big batch of Pojoaque Padrons to accompany Adobo dusted fried pork chops. Heaven. Nary a hot coal, just peppery garlic enhanced flavor.

HG/BSK’s dear friend Jackie Cain (one half of the marvelous jazz vocal and music duo of Jackie and Roy) has always looked beautiful and slightly ethereal but her tastes in food are robust. Cooked some powerful Polish and Czech specialties for her husband and musical partner, the late Roy Kral, and fortunate HG/BSK. While presenting a lush platter of long cooked spicy beef (or pork), puddles of spicy gravy and nicely absorbent dumplings, Jackie would say: “I just had a taste for it.” If it were a lush and savory noodle kugel (or the Polish equivalent of the dish), Jackie would introduce with the same words: “I just had a taste for it.” A few years ago, BSK enjoyed a hearty bowl of deeply spiced short ribs and soba noodles swimming in a fragrant broth. It was a temporary offering at Bones, the very good Asian fusion restaurant in Denver. Well, it seems that the dish had been haunting BSK. So, BSK did some intensive research (no recipe available at Bones) and found an approximation in the archives of Food & Wine Magazine. The dish, “Five-Spice Short Ribs With Udon Noodles,” is fairly labor intensive but BSK was up to the task. Chinese five-spice powder, garlic, thyme, red wine, chicken stock, ginger, celery, carrots, onions, daikon, mushrooms and konbu were involved. Meaty short ribs were browned and then simmered. Finally, the bowls of meat, noodles and vegetables were topped with poached eggs. Spectacular dish. Layers and layers of flavors. Exotic and earthy. HG expressed fervent gratitude. Said BSK: “I just had a taste for it.”

When in Denver HG always dines at Bones, an Asian fusion noodle restaurant in the Capitol Hill neighborhood. HG counsel: Sit at the bar and watch the five person crew do magic.

Small plates are outstanding: slightly fiery shishito peppers (with a real Madrid taste); escargot pot stickers in a slightly sweet Thai chili sauce; Korean barbecued pork ribs on a bed of Kimchi; crab spring rolls; steamed buns with a choice of suckling pig or pork belly. HG usually follows some starters with noodles. There’s a choice of soba, ramen and rice noodles with appropriate additions like chicken, pork or lobster. Some very nice evening specials (last week HG had plump, browned sea scallops resting on a delightful, first-of-the-season sweet corn melange). There are inventive salads and a nicely priced sake and wine list. Dessert is soft ice cream. Lush flavors change nightly. Service is friendly and efficient. Bones proprietor, Christopher is an elegant, stylish and personable guy who brings a touch of class to this lively bistro that is much favored by Denver’s hip, young fashionables.