HUNGRY GERALD

The end of a 2,100 mile bout of virtuoso long distance driving by BSK. The magical woman is nervous if HG drives. Thus, HG (advised by Toby, The Wonder Dog) acted as navigator and music selector. On arrival at the Riverside, R.I., home of the Riva family, a warm welcome from Lesley (HG/BSK’s multi-talented daughter), Massimo (Handsome and brilliant Profesore/Uficiale son-in-law); Arianna and Sofia (Gifted and beautiful granddaughters). The excellent traveler, Toby, was glad to be out of the car and renewing a loving and lively friendship with Pip, the Rivas’ charming and brilliant lady dog. HG was famished so broke away from embraces and was off to Blount Clam Shack adjacent to the nearby Crescent Park Carousel. The “merry go round” is a beautifully restored antique. A bowl of New England Clam Chowder. The real deal. Lots of clams and lots of sea flavor. As usual, dinner at the Riva’s was an epic. It was served outdoors with wonderful views of the setting sun over the waters of Narraganset Bay. A pre-dinnder vodka for HG. Then, chilled Prosecco with cantaloupe and San Daniele ham. A huge bowl of linguine with clams (Rhody clams are the best). Spectacular bread from the Seven Stars Bakery soaked up the flavorful sauce of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic and clam juice. White wine flowed. Then, a switch to Dolcetto d’Alba with a cheese platter and salad. HG had more red wine with Belgian Almond Butter Cookies. HG had a finale of icy Limoncello. Sharing a bed with BSK and Toby (A quiet and serene bedmate), HG, surfeited with family love, wondrous food and ample alcohol, slept like a babe.

Off on the long drive from Prince Edward Island to Riverside, R.I. (home of Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and family) with an overnight stop at the Senator Hotel in Augusta, Maine. BSK is the world’s best, most alert, most tireless long distance driver. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is a happy traveler, perched on the arm rest and watching the changing scenery with interest. HG is a contented, passive passenger. BSK drove for seven hours through changing weather. Sunny. Threatening clouds. Light fog. Dense fog. Comfortable, dog friendly room at the Senator. Nice area in which to walk Toby. Excellent Maine dinner at the hotel restaurant. A pair of Maine lobsters (modestly priced) for HG. (Since BSK is allergic to crustaceans, BSK’s Maine voyages have always been marked by watching, with envy, HG devour the state’s most famous product). HG/BSK had a platter of freshly shucked oysters from Maine waters. Splendid. Comparable to PEI’s Colville Bay product. HG/BSK, on the next day drive, were surprised by the heavy traffic. (Traffic is very light, almost non-existent, in PEI and New Mexico). Lunched at the Blount Clam Shack adjacent to the lovely Crescent Park carousel in Riverside. Savory Rhode Island “Clambake Chowder” and (for HG) a wonderfully generous lobster roll, sweet lobster drenched in melted butter). Warm reunion with the Riva family. The Riva gardens, home and water views are particularly beautiful in the early days of New England autumn. Lesley and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna hosted a woman’s group of 14 for dinner while HG/BSK and Profesore Massimo R. dined at Sun and Moon, a delightful Korean restaurant in East Providence. Korean pancakes and other down home Korean cooking (some outstanding stir fried pork bellies). HG drank much Soju with beer chasers. With Toby at the foot of the bed, HG/BSK slept soundly after a long day of travel.

HG is very fond of fried fish. Fish and chips is a meal. For a snack (or a very light lunch) a fish sandwich is just right. Like many great edibles, a fish sandwich must be simple; and the key to elevating that simplicity is that every element of a fish sandwich must be correct. The buttered bun must be soft with a crisp, toasted surface. There must be high grade tartar sauce and a sprinkle of Tabasco. The fish should be cod or haddock, fried to a greaseless crisp. During HG’s summer sojourn on Prince Edward Island, HG often lunches on a fish sandwich at Rick’s Fish and Chips on St. Peters Bay. An exemplary nosh. Fish sandwiches do not abound in landlocked Santa Fe where HG lives for much of the year. HG’s craving sometimes forces HG into Burger King for a sad fried fish sandwich — for shame, for shame. Today, HG/BSK stopped at Blount Clam Shack in Riverside, R.I., for a quick lunch. Ordered a specialty: “The Fish Reuben.” This is a generous piece of fried cod topped with Swiss cheese, cole slaw and tartar sauce served on a buttered, grilled bun. This is the gold standard of fried fish sandwiches. Sea heaven on a bun. The Shack also offers a “Fish BLT.” In this version the fried cod is topped with lettuce, tomato, smoked bacon and mayo. Must try.

Gifted Daughter Lesley, husband/Profesore Massimo R., their two daughters (Arianna and Sofia) plus Civilized Dog, Pip, live on Naragansett Terrace, a lovely street in Riverside, R.I. (little town minutes from Providence). The street fronts on Naragansett Bay so the water views and sunsets are exhilarating. Homes are well kept with colorful gardens. Many are old homes (once occupied by tugboat captains, pilots and other seafarers) that have been updated without too many jarring modernist details. It is a quiet, neighborly street, a throwback to an America of the distant past. There are some very pleasant amenities. One is Crescent Park, a short walk away. The Park is home to the Crescent Park Carousel. It was built in 1895 by ID. Looff, a famous carousel designer at the turn of the century. It was built as part of a real estate promotion (Naragansett Terrace was being developed as a second home community for urban residents of Providence and other Rhode Island cities). The Carousel is the largest and most elaborate of Looff’s works with 62 beautiful hand carved horses and four elaborate chariots. It fell into disrepair but was saved in the 1970’s by local residents and in 1987 was designated a National Historic Landmark. The Park is also home of a Blount Clam Shack. Blount is a big Rhode Island and Massachusetts company (largest producer of clam chowder in New England and the largest producer of lobster bisque in the United States). In recent years Blount has opened a few clam shack restaurants in Rhode Island featuring traditional clam shack dishes like clam chowder, fried clams, lobster rolls, etc. HG/BSK lunched at the Crescent Park location today and it was splendid. HG/BSK had “Clambake Chowder”: clams, potatoes, chourico and corn in a clear, briny broth. “Chowda” as it should be. Then some clam belly rolls with excellent cole slaw and tartar sauce. Cape Cod potato chips. Perfect New England cuisine. HG walked it off by strolling with Toby, The Wonder Dog, and Pip, Lady Dog of Grace and Intelligence. Though small in size, Toby has a very stentorian bark (like those advanced little audio speakers). Toby utilized his loud bark whenever he spotted a neighborhood dog. Pip kept silent. Understanding, but still disdainful, of Toby’s bad manners.