HUNGRY GERALD

All of HG/BSK’s French dining has been done in Paris during numerous visits beginning in 1967. Still love eating there though prices keep moving upwards, good brasseries have virtually disappeared and homey bistros are becoming a rarity. After spending a week dining in Reims and its immediate vicinity, HG has come to a number of conclusions, some surprising. The oysters at Boulingrin (two visits) and Le Bocal (one visit) are better than any oysters HG has ever slurped (BSK agrees). Proximity to Normandy and other oyster regions? Le Bocal is better (and much cheaper) than any seafood restaurant in Paris. Anna-S is as good as most of the new cutting edge bistros in Paris (most helmed by young Japanese chefs). Some Reims dishes are outshone by their Paris counterparts. Rare roast duck breast at Le Madelon is far inferior to the version served by Chez Georges in Paris. Boulingrin’s skate with capers doesn’t compare to the version served by Rech in Paris. Oddly, cheese in Reims is not great. In one restaurant HG had to send back a round of St. Marcellin. Ice cold and as hard as a hockey puck. A camembert bought at a cheese shop disappointed. The bread and rolls served in Reims restaurants are very good, better than Paris. HG has never had a great choucroute in Paris. The choucroute (a huge, lavish affair HG spied at a neighboring table at Boulingrin) looked like a class act. Will have it if good fortune brings HG back to Reims. If you did not have enough reasons already to want to visit Reims, then here is another: champagne. Reims is in the heart of champagne country and cafes and restaurants offer a staggering array of bubbly ambrosia, many from small local vineyards which one will never see in the US. Lots of splendid bottles priced at 30 Euros. HG/BSK drank some very good champagne for 7 Euros a glass (a very generous pour) in a charming cafe. A pleasant cocktail hour.

Another superb meal in Reims. This time it was for lunch at Anna-S, a stylish little restaurant which serves classic dishes prepared in a creative, colorful manner. The amuse geules were little pots of spicy, pureed sweet potato topped with tiny biscuits. HG followed with nine “Petite Pots d’ Escargots.” The snails, instead of being served in their shells, were served in individual earthenware pots enclosed by tiny rounds of toast. Special spoons were provided enabling the diner to enjoy every bit of the tender snails, the robust, herbaceous garlic and butter sauce plus the toast round. A joy. HG followed this with a juicy filet of John Dory nested on a puree of parsnips and Tonka beans. Lush. Dessert was a gratin of figs (much like a fig flavored creme brûlée) plus a scoop of fig ice cream. Imaginative and delicious. Excellent coffee and a light meringue climaxed the meal. Others at the table has extraordinary starters of beet carpaccio served with whipped goat cheese and goat cheese ice cream; monkfish filets; farm chicken and racks of lamb. All quite marvelous. Equally delightful was the bill: $220 for six diners including two bottles of wine (Chablis and Beaujolais) and tip. This was an extraordinary price/quality ration. Anna-S is another can’t miss Reims experience.