HUNGRY GERALD

When it comes to food and drink, HG is a true multi-cultural internationalist. Witness yesterday’s pleasures. Lunch was Chinese: Congee (rice porridge with mushrooms). Pre-dinner cocktail was Mexican: Tequila, Agave nectar, lemon juice. Dinner was Vietnamese-Thai (BSK’s inventive variation on Vietnamese pho enriched with shredded chicken from a leftover spatchcocked bird and Thai rice noodles). Drank Nero d’Avola wine from Italy. Dessert was Franco-American: Chestnut puree from France topped with supermarket Reddi-Whip. After dinner drink was All-American: Kentucky bourbon whiskey.

Nothing is more flavorless than un-seasoned, raw ground chicken. However, it is the basis of a great soup cooked by BSK last night. The inspiration was the Thai soup, tom kha gai. BSK did a lot of chopping and grating (ginger, garlic, cilantro, jalapeno pepper). Mixed the ground chicken with these ingredients plus fish sauce and salt. Then, BSK formed the mix into small balls and then browned them on all sides. These were placed on the side, as BSK prepared the soup: ginger, garlic, peppers, and cilantro were sauteed until soft. Chicken broth, coconut milk and fish sauce were then added and heated to a lazy boil. Chicken balls went back into the pot and the soup simmered for ten minutes more. With the heat turned off, a handful of baby spinach and lime juice was added, The soup was served over bowls of rice and garnished with chopped cilantro and a lime wedge. Great dish (when BSK makes it again, HG will help with the chopping and grating). This dish was suggested by Gifted Daughter Lesley R. who told BSK that BSK would love it despite BSK’s antipathy toward coconut. Lesley was right. The dish demolished BSK’s coconut milk distaste. Meanwhile, Rhode Island has its first case of coronavirus. As communication director of the state’s largest health care provider, Lesley is busier than ever in responding to media inquiries, etc., etc. HG/BSK are confident she’ll cope.

BSK explored the refrigerator and found cauliflower, feta cheese, blue cheese, grated parmesan, chicken stock, herbs. BSK smeared cauliflower florets with a mixture of olive oil and crushed garlic. They went into the oven for a quick bake and brown. Adding the cauliflower to the other refrigerator finds, BSK constructed a cheesy, creamy, herbaceous sauce. Poured over Rao’s Spaghetti (a very good brand) it was a delightful pasta dinner. (Heat-loving HG used many red pepper flakes ). Even though HG/BSK had ample seconds, there was plenty of sauced pasta left over. So, for lunch the next day, BSK beat some eggs and added them to the pasta. And, that’s how a lovely frittata was born.

HG loves Asian food and, happily, BSK has become an expert in cooking some Japanese, Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean dishes. A few nights ago, BSK cut up some chicken thighs and pan-fried them in a mix of Korean chili paste, Korean chile flakes, onions, and garlic. A fiery and flavorful dish that was very welcome on a cold night. The next night BSK made a dish inspired by her daughter in law, Exquisite Maiko. HG/BSK are fortunate. When Maiko is on Prince Edward Island (HG/BSK’s oceanfront summer paradise), she takes advantage of wonderful seafood and produces exemplary sashimi, tempura, home-made gyoza and other delicacies. Maiko steams sole filets over a bed of spinach and bok choy in a broth enriched with dashi, bonito flakes, onions, garlic and a splash of sake. BSK duplicated the sole dish (with some variations). What made it wonderful (besides BSK’s skills and Maiko’s inspiration) were the thick, firm Pacific sole filets. BSK is very assertive at the Whole Foods fish counter and makes sure every fish, scallop and mussel she orders is as perfect as can be obtained in a landlocked, high desert city. BSK accompanied the sole treat with fluffy rice. Leftover rice was converted into a lush pot of mushroom congee, a breakfast and lunch treat for HG. And, then last night BSK made a steaming pot of comfort: BSK’s improvisation on Vietnamese pho. It involved chicken broth enriched with pho powder, shredded poached chicken, baby spinach, mushrooms, carrot shreds, tofu, garlic, ginger and more. Plus lots of slightly al dente broad rice noodles. Another cold night treat.

The venerable Brasserie Lipp on Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris has a notice in the window: “A salad is not a meal.” HG presumes this is a warning to dieters, who limit their lunch to a few lettuce leaves and sparkling water, to take their mini appetites elsewhere. For the most part, HG agrees that a salad is a skimpy choice for lunch or dinner. Yes, there are a few restaurant exceptions: Cobb Salad at the Beverly-Wilshire Hotel in Los Angeles (the ultimate was at the long-closed Brown Derby); “Garbage Salad” at Gene & Georgetti steak house in Chicago; the seafood salad served in the Oak Room of New York’s Algonquin Hotel when the hotel was owned by Ben Bodne. Last night in New Mexico, BSK prepared a sumptuous salad composed of endive, butter lettuce, Kalamata olives, feta cheese, white anchovies, Kumatoes, sliced sweet onions and chopped parsley. The dressing was a mustard/garlic vinaigrette. HG/BSK thought a simple pasta dish (tortellini in brodo, perhaps) would follow. But, the salad was so lavish and filling, it comprised a totally delicious dinner. More BSK magic.

Yes, rice is wonderful stuff. Chinese congee (rice porridge) is one of HG’s favorite breakfasts. (The best is found at Congee Noodle House in Vancouver, B.C.’s Mt. Pleasant neighborhood). Spanish Paella is a celebration. Italian Risotto (mixed with mushrooms, spinach or asparagus) is pure comfort. Rice Pilaf brightens Middle Eastern cuisine. And, of course, there’s Japanese Sushi, Chinese fried rice and scores of other Asian rice treats. Due to BSK, HG has a new joyous rice dish: Italian Risi e Bisi (rice and peas). It has elements of Risotto but takes less time, BSK found fresh English peas at Trader Joe’s and that made BSK turn to a David Tanis recipe for the dish. Using a deep saucepan, onions and garlic are cooked in butter and Arborio rice is added with ladles of steaming chicken broth. Pancetta and peas are cooked in a separate pan with olive oil. When the peas are tender and the Pancetta is crisped, they go into the deep saucepan as the final cups of chicken broth are added to bring the rice to a firm but slightly creamy texture. Chopped scallions, leaves of baby spinach, chopped parsley and lemon zest are added. The mix gets a hearty stir. BSK served this wonder with a topping of Parmigiano and Aleppo pepper. Side dish was butter lettuce glistening with BSK’s mustard vinaigrette. Heavy snow fell on HG/BSK’s New Mexico home but was ignored by the duo as they supped on Risi e Bisi and drank copious amounts of a good French Pinot Noir.

BSK found a lovely, grass-fed, organic New Zealand boneless leg of lamb. A great product, juicy and full of flavor. BSK knew what to do with it. First, BSK butterflied it so it would lie flat with both thick and thin pieces. Done this way and broiled or grilled, there are rare, medium and well-done slices. Makes everyone happy. BSK marinated the lamb for a few hours in a mix of olive oil, onions, garlic, and herbs. When it came out of the oven broiler it had a delicious thin crust. When BSK made this dish a few years ago, BSK accompanied it with a Greek Avgolemono sauce (a kind of thin, lemony hollandaise). This time, BSK asked HG to make yogurt sauce as a side dish (Greek yogurt mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, salt, pepper, Spanish pimenton, crushed garlic, zaatar and a pinch of sumac). The lamb and sauce were served with orzo mixed with fried onions, mushrooms and chopped parsley. Broiled Kumatoes added a burst of color. HG/BSK drank a bottle of Italian Nero D’Avolo. The meal was a celebration of HG/BSK’s life together.