HUNGRY GERALD

Sour cream (“Smetana” in Russian) was omnipresent in the Bronx cuisine that nourished young HG. Mom and Pop grew up in Belarus so this was only natural. Huge amounts of sour cream are devoured throughout Russia (on a rough camping trip through Siberia, author Ian Frazier was astonished at the amount of Smetana his Russian companions ate). Mom served boiled potatoes with a bowl of Smetana. This was often accompanied by schmaltz or pickled herring. Schav (chilled sorrel soup) and Borscht (chilled beet soup) were topped with Smetana and eaten with the boiled potato/Smetana combo. Smetana topped bowls of raw chopped carrots, onions and radishes (summer dish); Smetana was also mixed with pot cheese, cottage cheese or farmer cheese, Dessert (or breakfast) was sliced bananas or seasonal berries topped with Smetana (and a drizzle of honey). Mom bought her Smetana from Daitch Dairy (years before it became Daitch-Shopwell). Rich and tangy stuff. Better than today’s product, but HG makes do. Dinner last night was BSK’s lush tomato/garbanzo/chicken broth soup. HG enjoyed two steaming bowls. Topped them with–guess what?–Smetana.

Yes, revolution and geopolitical horror create American taste treats. On every level, the Vietnamese War was a disaster for America.Terrible waste of American lives and resources (And, death and destruction for Vietnamese). Food result: Banh Mi sandwiches (Baguette, pate, pickles, pork, mayo) are an American lunch treat (especially in New York and LA).. Vietnamese restaurants specializing in Pho and other good things are ubiquitous in The Land of The Free, Brave and Crazy. Postwar, the Japanese conflict and unspeakable Japanese nuclear deaths, brought Sushi to thousands of USA restaurants (and supermarkets) Only billionaires can afford the very best. When Castro overthrew Batista, many Cuban Chinese emigrated to the USA. They opened Cuban-Chinese restaurants in the United States. Favorites of HG. There used to be many. Don’t know if there are any left. HG dined on black beans and rice (“moros y cristianos”),crisp fried shrimps; avocado and orange salads; Grilled Cubano sandwiches; excellent black coffee. So, what will Ukraine bring?

If HG could be granted one final meal (just before leaving for heavenly–??–realms) it would be at Le Dome on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris. Simple, madly expensive, superlative dining. Starter would be a dozen Gillardeau oysters (impeccably shucked, briny, served with buttered brown bread). The wine: A modest Muscadet. This would be followed by large boned filets of ultimate quality Dover Sole swimming in the best French butter with a hint of lemon juice. The wine: Sancerre. Dessert would be Berthillon ice cream. Black coffee and a snifter of Vielle Prune would be the finale before the finale. Real Dover Sole is rare in the United States. Doesn’t travel well. Surprisingly, some years ago, HG had a fine Dover Sole at a Legal Seafoods Restaurant in Boston. Never saw it on the menu again. HG discovered two Pacific Ocean sole-like treats at the venerable Tadich Grill in San Francisco: Petrale Sole and Sand Dabs. (preceded by sloe gin fizzes, of course). Sand dabs aren’t shipped to Santa Fe but Petrale Sole often makes a welcome presence at Whole Foods. HG or BSK usually fry or saute it. But, last night, influenced by a Melissa Clark NY Times recipe, BSK cooked it in the oven on a sheet pan and it rested gently on a bed of thinly sliced red peppers. There were BSK’s creative additions of olive oil, garlic, butter, herbs, dash of hot sauce. Very tasty. Not Le Dome, but gifted BSK comes close.

New Mexico is the USA home of the very best chili, red and green. (Chilis turn from green to red as they ripen). Many fans of New Mexican cuisine order their enchiladas “Christmas”. That means the enchilada is flanked by red sauce and green sauce. HG prefers green chili. BSK relies upon green chili sauce to enliven many dishes. Last night, BSK made a lush pot of chicken in green chili sauce. (BSK’s pork green chili stew is one of HG’s favorite cold weather meals). Shakshuka, the Middle Eastern (omnipresent in Israel) egg and vegetable stew is another HG fave. BSK made a five egg version last week. HG thought it the best ever. It had a desirable level of spicy heat. You guessed it. BSK had added a healthy amount of green chilis to the stew. Dish was topped with Harissa for additional fire. (HG cooled it down with a side dish of Greek yogurt swirled with olive oil, cumin and zaatar).

Lamb or beef? HG prefers lamb. In a recent post, HG noted that BSK’s. ground lamb chili with beans (or lentils) is far better than Texas chili. Lamb chops are better than steak. Best lamb chops ever were served at New York’s. long closed Waverly Inn. Very thick and cooked medium rare with fried potatoes. BSK uses ground lamb in a host of wonderful Middle Eastern recipes. Kefta (herbaceous cigar shaped Moroccan lamb burgers) are an HG fave. BSK butterflies and marinates a leg of lamb. Broils it medium rare and serves it with Greek avgolemono sauce. Outstanding. Paris bistros serve splendid rosy cuts of lamb (gigot) with savory beans. (Beaujolais Nouveau is a nice companion). Only beef dish HG enjoys is steak tartare, A frequent lunch for HG when Blue Ribbon (German restaurant) was open and HG was a young man in Manhattan. In Paris, HG frequently consumed the dish at Le Stella brasserie. Oysters preceded. Ile Flottante concluded. Perfect meal.

Yes, HG (after 58 years of marriage) is still in love with BSK. Yes, the heart has its own mysterious passions. But, on an objective level (HG can obtain some level of objectivity about the wondrous woman), BSK deserves every bit of HG’s admiration and romantic proclivities. Certainly, without BSK’s concentration on every aspect of HG’s health and wellbeing, the 92-year-old would long be dead. Instead, HG enjoys life, BSK’s intellectual curiosity, creativity, wit, and energy. And, cuisine, of course; a tasty (and healthy treat) every night. BSK was a beautiful child, a beautiful young woman Motherhood enhanced BSK’s looks. Now, at age 80, BSK is a mature hottie, looking decades younger. Slender. Svelte. Stylish (super chic in clothes that fit after being bought years and years ago). Yes, BSK exercises daily, walks and hikes with Toby, The Wonder Dog; moderate in eating; rarely consumes fat or sweets. However, HG knows BSK’s diet secret. On a daily basis,BSK eats peanuts, peanut butter and pickles (sometimes all three). Dessert: dry mango slices. HG will admit that genes may play a role in BSK’s perpetual radiance.

BSK had a pound of lean ground lamb on the kitchen island in HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. BSK’s plan was to make kefta. These are Moroccan cigar shaped lamb burgers. The ground lamb is mixed with chopped onions, garlic, parsley and a host of Middle Eastern spices (cumin is foremost). BSK pan fries or oven broils them to a pink and juicy lushness. Served with pita and a yogurt sauce (Greek yogurt mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, zaatar, sumac, cumin, Spanish pimenton), you’ve got a zesty dinner. Sliced kumatos and sweet onions are the accompaniments plus lots of red wine, natch. However, BSK decided to go in another direction, a challenge to Texas chili. BSK discovered a recipe from a favorite French chef, Pierre Franey: Ground lamb with lentils chili. Ingredients: browned ground lamp, garlic, celery, crushed canned tomatoes, New Mexico chili pepper powder, chopped red peppers, jalapenos, chicken broth. Instead of lentils, BSK substituted Goya cannelini beans, Knowing that HG likes picante chili, BSK doubled up on the jalapenos. The result was a fiery, savory chili with fleeting hints of Morocco. Much better than beefy Texas chili thickened with masa flour.