HUNGRY GERALD

When growing up in The Bronx many, many decades ago, young HG was often served unpleasant bowls of cauliflower overcooked into mush. Feh!! (and this was a time when the borough led the world as the home of savory Jewish good things like pastrami and Nova smoked salmon). Times have changed and now cauliflower has become a star–a luminary on many top flight restaurant menus. BSK makes a wonderful tagliatelle in cauliflower sauce (check archive for many versions). BSJ chops cauliflower into florets and tiny pieces.  Olive oil, chicken stock,  feta and other cheeses, garlic, and spices are simmered with the vegetable to make a sublime sauce which tops the pasta. Sprinkles of parmesan and drops of hot sauce enhance. A lusty and comforting dish that brings HG pleasure.

This is the name of an outstanding seafood market on Hope Street in Providence. Fearless sells a large variety of fresh fish plus smoked fish (excellent Nova and Gravlax), oysters, clams, lobsters, etc.–also good dips and spreads.  BSK used some of these offerings for a dazzling seafood supper last night. Appetizers were swordfish salad and whitefish salad (the whitefish was the winner). Also spicy tuna sushi from Stop and Shop (this supermarket sushi rivals the more expensive versions at sushi bars). Main dish was hake (from Fearless) plus peppers and sliced potatoes gently cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. BSK picked up a delightful tzatziki type spread at Fearless—this topped the cooked hake, turning the fish into an extravaganza of deliciousness. HG/BSK drank robust Cabernet and HG paired the wine with cheesecake. No dessert for BSK–and that’s why BSK has the svelte body of a woman many, many decades younger.

BSK cut up a large cod filet into chunks and poached them in  two and a half  cups of fish stock and clam broth (that’s where the briny flavor came from).  The fish was removed when cooked and placed in a bowl for later use. BSK chopped an onion, celery, fennel and carrot–sliced some potato into very thin strips. BSK cut up some thick bacon strips (that’s where the smoky flavor originated) and cooked them in a large saucepan and when done BSK added the vegetables to the pan and gave them a shower of pimenton plus salt and pepper. A gentle saute. BSK  covered  them with the fish stock and clam juice mix plus a half cup of white wine. BSK added the cod chunks back to the pan (making sure all was covered with liquid). Heat was turned to simmer and the dish was done (potato had to be softened). HG made a homey rouille of mayonnaise, ketchup and hot sauce. This was added to the chowder in judicious amounts (BSK smeared some on slices of toasted baguette). The chowder was a very heartwarming dish for supper on a chilly Rhody night—another BSK winner and an homage to the local seas.

BSK has often mentioned shopping at Market Basket in Pawtucket, RI. To HG, the name indicated a small Mom-and-Pop grocer. A few  days ago, HG accompanied BSK to Market Basket for shopping. Surprise!!  Market Basket was vast, the biggest supermarket ever–and everything was sparkling and fresh, super quality. Helpful employees did some guidance. Among many other things, BSK picked up a Bell & Evans chicken (B & E is the favorite brand of discerning chefs). BSK spatchcocked the chicken, gave it a rubdown with spices and herbs, and roasted it in the oven. BSK is a master of roast timing. The chicken had crisp, golden skin and juicy flavorful meat (even the breast was juicy). It was the best chicken HG ever tasted and the accompaniment–quinoa with chopped spinach–was a good choice to absorb the tasty juices from the roasting pan. Fortunately, the chicken and quinoa dish was a double header–enough for two hearty suppers. And, just as good and juicy on the second night. 

Shawarma-style chicken is a middle eastern dish that BSK makes—much to the delight of HG. Basically, it’s a chicken stew in a cast iron pan–served (after braising on the stove range) on a bed of basmati rice. Before cooking, chicken thighs are marinated in a mix of olive oil and spices. Best to marinate for an hour. The marinated chicken (and the marinade) go into the pan with stock and garlic—plus a host of spices–turmeric, pimenton, zaatar, cumin, sumac, etc., etc. Also much lemon juice. BSK serves this hearty dish with a Greek yogurt sauce (yogurt enriched with olive oil, lemon juice and crushed garlic). Frank’s hot sauce and Sriracha on the table for those (HG among them) who want to amp up the heat. BSK makes enough shawarma for two suppers (double header). Pita and red wine are good companions for shawarma.

HG/BSK are back in Central Falls, RI. (near the edge of Providence) . The spacious loft (3,200 sq. ft.), beautifully decorated by BSK, is both aesthetically pleasing and down home comfortable. Getting there (after almost five joyous months in the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home in green and serene Prince Edward Island) was a horror. Endless traffic jams made it an exhausting and frustrating 11-hour journey (daughter Lesley did most of the driving with BSK at  the wheel for brief intervals, so Lesley could rest her eyes). Trip took a toll on the old HG and HG skipped the arrival dinner and had much difficulty getting to bed (as usual, BSK was heroic in assistance).  But, after hours of sleep (awake at noon) HG had a hearty breakfast (Coffee, yogurt and maple syrup, Black Mission figs, large smoothie–and 20 vitamins and meds. Dinner was a BSK specialty—linguine with sardine sauce. Heartwarming and delicious.Topping it off, HG/BSK drank glasses of a top notch pinot noir that BSK put aside when HG /BSK left Rhody for PEI. Taxation on PEI makes wine very pricey so BSK, the sommelier, picks lesser vintages (BSK calls them “Plonk”). So, BSK is glad to be in Rhody where she buys splendid wines at comfy prices.

HG/BSK and gifted daughter, Lesley R., will soon be leaving the family oceanfront home on serene and green Prince Edward Island for their Rhode Island homes. The last PEI suppers were lush, lusty–super yummy. There was okra in the fridge so BSK made a big pot of chicken and chorizo gumbo—it was enough for two dinners and lunches. HG will not write more about gumbo cooked by BSK (and son Jeremy), Check the HG archive—there are almost ten gumbo posts–all recalling joyous suppers. Last night was Rosh Hashanah ((Happy New Year!!!).  BSK’s sister, Noel M. and her husband Yossi M., drove from their Ocean Mist Farm on the south shore of PEI to the HG/BSK/RIVA home on the north shore to celebrate. BSK and Lesley collaborated on a dinner of seared tuna (caught in the local sea) on a bed of rice noodles mixed with jalapeno peppers, radish, cucumber, sugar snap peas, scallions, cherry tomatoes, cilantro and mint. Lesley made a spectacular Asian dressing incorporating garlic and ginger. Fabulous. Dessert was French Vanilla ice cream with surprisingly splendid strawberries from Nova Scotia. All made fervent New Year wishes.

Prince Edward Island–where HG/BSK spend many months at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home–is famous for its numerous potato farms. Spuds are the Island’s major crop and they are shipped all over Canada and to some northeast USA locations. They have a unique and tasty mineral flavor (PEI’s red soil is the reason.) BSK cooks them in many ways –all delicious. Weeks ago, BSK made a dinner of fresh steamed cod and seasonal asparagus. This was accompanied by a saucepan of browned sliced onions and local potatoes. The sliced spuds were gently sauteed with the onions, dusted with turmeric and other spices and simmered in chicken broth until soft. Sensational. Spuds merged beautifully with the fish dish and a salad of avocado and cherry tomatoes.

HG loves softly, softly scrambled eggs. (HG uses a special rubber tipped small spatula to move the curds around and this needs focused attention). Soft scrambles are the best when topped with red salmon caviar and sour cream. Like everything The Wonder Woman does, BSK makes excellent soft scrambles. Except in France, it is impossible to get good scrambles in restaurants. (A coffee shop in the E.50’s –sadly, long closed–did good scrambles accompanied by a warmed and buttered bialy). Many decades ago, Andre R., an eccentric Fire Island friend, made super rich scrambles. He beat the eggs with a pint of heavy sweet cream and a dash of Tabasco. It was not designed for health food converts. Today was chilly and windy at the HG/BSK/RIVA Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Wonderful daughter Lesley R. is here to help close down the house as HG/BSK leave PEI for their Rhode Island residences. Thoughtful Lesley warmed her Dad with a lunch of scrambles and buttered biscuits, Oh, my!! These were the best scrambled eggs. HG ever tasted. Scrambles? Lesley is the Champ!!

BSK’s delicious suppers at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home are made extra special by BSK’s creative tweaks–additions and substitutions, This  was the case with two dishes that provided suppers and lunches for two days. Alas, HG/BSK will  soon be leaving the green and serene Island for HG/BSK’s spacious 3,100 square foot loft in Central Falls, RI. It has been imaginatively decorated by BSK  –so arriving there will not be unhappy.  BSK’s  two PEI suppers were Chinese Mapo Tofu and Jewish Kasha Varnishkes. HG is a lover of Chinese and Jewish Ashkenazi dishes so these  are HG faves. Ma Po Tofu is a spicy ground pork and tofu stew mixed with rice noodles and spicy sauce. BSK made it special by adding plentiful sugar snap peas and mushrooms. No rice noodles so BSK cooked Japanese buckwheat noodles–this added an earthy taste. The pantry didn’t have Kasha, the buckwheat groats that are traditional for Kasha Varnishkes . So, BSK substituted RED MILL Sarrasin, a buckwheat grain. The grain cooked to a smaller and firmer size than traditional Kasha but was equally tasty. No traditional butterfly (farfalle) pasta that is traditionally mixed with Kasha. BSK substituted tortellini–a good choice. Lots of mushrooms and fried onions enhanced the dish–plus a topping of sour cream. Sea salt and many grinds of black pepper added a spicy touch. Once more, BSK rose to the occasion and made HG happy with BSK culinary magic.