HUNGRY GERALD

HG’s favorite New Yorker cartoon—Penne on the telephone:  “Fusilli, you crazy bastard! How are you?”. For some obscure reason, HG has never liked Fusilli, the corkscrew shaped pasta. Why? A mystery–since HG loves every other pasta shape–long,short or chunky. Last night, BSK cooked fusilli with a savory sauce of olive oil, zucchini, chicken broth (modest amount) , feta cheese, garlic and bacon. The Fusilli gathered each bit of the sauce and each bite was heavenly. So, you crazy bastard, all is forgiven. BSK has made Fusilli a supper treat.

Glad that HG/BSK live in Rhode Island. While America voted for autocracy, Rhode Island stayed true to its traditions and elected a Democratic Senatorial candidate as well as other Dems running in the election (Of course, Harris won big in Rhody). A visionary minister and theologian, Roger Williams (1603 was expelled from Massachusetts because he believed that “liberty of conscience” be espoused by religion. He also believed in freedom of religion, separation of church and state, fair dealings with Native Americans.) .He founded Providence Plantation (later the State of Rhode Island) based on these principles. (Obviously, Rhody still believes in them.) George Washington summed it up in a letter to the Touro Synagogue in Newport –“to bigotry no sanction—to persecution no assistance.” Touro Synagogue, a national historic site, is still standing. Completed in 1763, Touro is the oldest synagogue in the United States. Rhody is a very diverse state–many working class neighborhoods (with immigrant majorities). Mansions galore ($10,000,000 to $29,000,000–Newport started it all). Elegant, affordable houses with water views. With water power available, Rhody was part of the industrial revolution. The loft buildings that once were mills have been converted to loft condominiums—HG/BSK live in a 3,200 square foot loft in Central Falls–loads of light from giant windows. The State is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and intersected by numerous bays and rivers. It is a seafood paradise–world’s best oysters, clams and squid (Calamari and hot peppers is the official Rhody dish). Loads of fresh fish–many line caught. There are also homey clam shacks and oyster bars for casual noshing. There are ethnic restaurants by the dozen–Portuguese, Cape Verde, Mexican, Spanish, Italian, Asian, etc. In Central Falls where HG/BSK live, Central American cuisine reigns. You won’t go  hungry in Rhody–valued stronghold of Democracy and Democrats.

When son Jeremy lived in Brooklyn with his family, he introduced HG/BSK to his version of New Orleans gumbo. SJ’s gumbo was filled with good things (chicken, sausage, okra, shrimp. the New Orleans “Holy Trinity” of celery, peppers, garlic, etc.) and thickened with  File spice. HG/BSK relished every bit of it. Noting the pleasure,  SJ made the dish many times. He and wife, Maiko, now live in Tokyo with son, Haru, and daughter, Teru. They have just celebrated the fourth anniversary of their busy izakaya, Freeman Shokudo, and gumbo is on the menu (along with pastrami and other much lauded barbecue specialties.) To honor the occasion, BSK made BSK’s own version of SJ’s gumbo using Bell & Evans tender chicken drumsticks, shrimp, spicy andouille sausage, okra, chopped spinach and fennel—plus the “Holy Trinity”. Fortunately, BSK made a big pot–a “double header” of BSK’s gumbo sensation—enough for two suppers and one or two lunches at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Weather is turning chilly in Rhody but BSK’s gumbo warms body and soul.

It is a joy to have a wonderful daughter, Lesley R., close (15-20 minute drive) to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R., live in Riverside, RI, with their sweet dog, Pip, and HG/BSK’s Wonder Dog, Toby—-The frisky little guy summers with HG/BSK on Prince Edward Island. The proximity is dear after so many years living thousands of miles apart. Lesley came to dinner last night alone (Massimo was working). Among a staggering bundle of skills and talents, Lesley has a flair for cooking lush and flavorful dishes. Last night, supper was a super bowl of shrimp and grits. Grits are an HG fave–a happy memory of some childhood years being fed by a motherly Black woman in Athens, Georgia. Lesley’s grits are the best–she cooks them with a blend of cream cheese, butter and chicken broth—creamy goodness that enhances all–Lesley tops her grits and shrimp with a perfect sunny side up fried egg. Oh. Boy!!  (When motoring with BSK, HG stops at Waffle House for grits topped with a poached egg and flanked by a syrup slicked waffle. No, not up to Lesley’s high standards—but serviceable on a long voyage).

BSK bought a superlative Bell & Evans chicken at Market Basket in nearby Attleboro, MA. (B & E are the best chickens in the USA). BSK spatchcocked the bird, marinated and roasted it to perfection. With some appropriate accompaniments, it was the star of supper at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.  HG/BSK managed to eat most of the chicken but there was enough left over for BSK to make a big pot of Vietnamese Pho, rich with shredded chicken and silken tofu. Pho for supper on the following night was a pleasure–enough Pho in the pot for some light lunches. Yes, BSK rivals HG’s late beloved Mom in making many meals from a plump chicken. (BSK made a robust chicken broth from the chicken carcass, skin, and innards). BSK also bought B & E drumsticks at Market Basket. Hopefully, BSK will use them for a creamy chicken fricassee (there’s a good recipe in the Oct. 25 NY Times). 

This was on every Jewish dairy restaurant menu when HG was growing up in The Bronx. No, it wasn’t super salty Lox that was mixed with scrambled eggs. Milder Novy was the smoked salmon used and genly sauteed sliced onôns were added to the mix. HG’s Mom served it many times and it was a Sunday brunch staple in the Freeman home. HG hasn’t tasted the dish for many decades but BSK brought back happy memories at lunch today. BSK served HG soft scrambles and excellent Novy. Golden oldy perfection. The champion of all smoked fish & egg dishes is the sturgeon and egg dish served at venerable Barney Greengrass on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Of course, HG is fond of smoked salmon or sable on a cream cheese covered bialy.  Russ & Daughters has the best smoked fish and “schmears.”

Two erudite and articulate guys, Damian and David, live together on the fifth floor of HG/BSK’s loft condo building in Central Falls, RI. (HG/BSK’s spacious loft is on the fourth floor).  Because of a direction error, HG banged on their door a few nights ago—rudely awakening them and their dog. They were not angry—they thought HG was an old guy suffering from  Alzheimers or another form of dementia. There were HG apologies in following days plus reassurances that HG was not mentally impaired but a bit slow—HG is 95. Bearing a bouquet gift, last night Damian and David visited HG/BSK for cocktail hour wine and a snack of excellent smoked salmon. Lively conversation. Quite enjoyable. HG learned that Damian is an adroit oyster shucker. Hopefully. HG/BSK will share an oyster feast with these guys before cold weather sends them to Florida. 

HG/BSK’s charming and very helpful neighbor, Barbara, had two visiting friends last night; she graciously invited HG/BSK to join for a homemade Detroit (or Chicago) pizza dinner. Barbara lives in a loft some steps from HG/BSK’s loft on the fourth floor. Her loft is beautifully designed and decorated and is a pleasure to visit. Visual delights abound with walls hung with her late Father’s paintings (There is a very amusing one on cat books–he and Barbara shared a love for cats.). Barbara has been an activist force for good in Central Falls (she showed us a lovely trophy awarded for her work). Lively conversation at dinner and pizza slices topped with a spicy tomato sauce went nicely with glasses (many ) of chilled white wine. HG/BSK toasted Barbara and thanked her for watering BSK’s plants, delivering mail, etc. during HG/BSK’s months at their Prince Edward Island summer home. Barbara was invaluable. Last night’s festivities continued with the group sipping port in HG/BSK’s loft. Splendid neighbor fun. 

HG is so lucky to have spent the last 61 years in marriage to the multi talented BSK. The Wonder Woman keeps infirm, 94-year-old HG, well nourished with delicious suppers. Last night, BSK found a New York Times recipe that looked good–One-Pot Orzo With Tomatoes, Corn and Zucchini. The tomatoes, corn and zucchini were ready for the pot but (whoops!) there was no orzo. This is where BSK began her improv: BSK substituted Quinoa (Keen-wah) for the Orzo. Recipe called for basil, dill was substituted. No mozzarella, so feta was the sub. BSK added diced red pepper and poblano pepper–doubled the amount of corn. The result: A joyous supper while watching the sun go down and the skies turn many colorful shades.

Ma Po Tofu is HG’s favorite dish—it surpasses all French, Italian, Indian, Jewish, etc. faves of HG.  Cooked in a wok, Ma Po  Tofu is a lush stew of ground pork, silken tofu, stock. It is a Sichuan dish packing plenty of mouth-burning heat. Prepared by Sichuan cooks, it incorporates many Sichuan peppercorns and Doubanjiang (a super fiery condiment). BSK makes a much less flaming version–it’s spicy and delicious—and HG enjoyed it last night. Usually, Ma Po Tofu is served with a bowl of rice but HG/BSK opt for buckwheat noodles (the best are Japanese). HG/BSK had a wonderful loft in Vancouver, BC, for a number of years. A short walk from their condo building was a large bustling restaurant–Congee Noodle House. It was there that HG read the New York Times while enjoying the ultimate brunch. It started with congee (rice porridge). Then, rice wraps enclosing juicy shrimp. One day, HG scanned the menu and saw “Spicy minced meat pork and bean curd”—-looked promising—-so HG ordered it. Soon, a large metal cauldron and a  small bowl of rice came to the table. The top of the cauldron was lifted and there was lush, steaming Ma Po Tofu, a lifelong culinary love (it was only later that HG learned the dish was called Ma Po Tofu). After HG sold the Vancouver loft, HG learned that Congee Noodle House had closed: Shifting earth had damaged the restaurant’s foundation, making the location precarious. Happily, after years of insurance wrangling, all has been repaired and the eatery is open and thriving.