Holiday Feasting (Day Five)

December 28th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

Hotel breakfast of coffee and raisin bran cereal. Off to Providence on Amtrak with BSK and grandson Haru. Penn Station was jammed but still managed to get ravenous Haru a slice of pepperoni pizza. Leisurely journey with plenty of time to read the New York Times. Arrived in Rhode Island ready for one of Gifted Daughter Lesley R.’s perfect Italian meals. This one didn’t disappoint. Antipasto of roasted peppers, anchovies, olives. Prosciutto and salami. Exceptional bread from Seven Stars Bakery. Perfectly ripe Gorgonzola. A chunk of Torrone candy for dessert. To bed with dreams of Russ & Daughters delicacies, the traditional HG/BSK family Christmas Eve feast, dancing in HG”s food obsessed old head.

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Holiday Feasting (Day Four)

December 27th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

This was a day of full time New York fressing for HG. Late awakening after SJ’s rousing Uzbek grand bouffe birthday party. HG/BSK had a Vietnamese brunch at Nam Son on Grand Street. Cha Gio, pork and vegetable spring rolls wrapped in lettuce and mint. Dipped in tangy fish sauce. Some crunchy salads topped with sliced shrimp and shredded chicken. HG/BSK separated. BSK went off to Brooklyn to frolic with grandson Haru and HG stayed at table with a big bowl of exceptional pho topped with tender, raw top sirloin. A pleasant long walk to Soho pausing at shops and galleries. An unexpected encounter. HG was wearing his ankle length Issey Miyake fur collared down coat, an imposing garment. A young, lively bearded chap approached. “That coat! That coat! I must take your picture.” It was Mordechai, the men’s style authority whose blog, Mister Mort, often features colorfully dressed old guys. He and SJ are friends. It was a pleasant coincidence. HG arrived at jam packed Balthazar, the big brasserie that far outperforms the brasseries of Paris. HG was seated with Restaurateur Daughter Victoria and her half brother, Harry Segal, a talented man who much resembles his brilliant, late father, Fred Segal, HG’s one time close friend. Victoria ordered a huge plateau de fruits de mer, a Balthazar specialty. HG couldn’t do it full justice but he did mange to knock off some oysters, crab, clams and shrimp. Plus glasses of the good house Muscadet. After a quick hotel shower, HG was picked up by the SJ family and all were off to Congee Village on Bowery for a dinner of congee with gingko nuts, fried squid; crisp skinned soy chicken; steamed tofu with shrimp, sliced fish, vegetables; pea shoots; crisp Hong Kong noodles. Chinatown cuisine at its best.

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Holiday Feasting (Day Three)

December 26th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

The chilly day began with dim sum at aptly named Dim Sum Go Go in Chinatown. In attendance: HG/BSK, SJ, Exquisite Maiko, grand grandkids Haru ands Teru; Restaurateur Daughter Victoria. The big round table was adorned with what seemed to be scores of bamboo steamer baskets filled with delectable morsels. BSK is allergic to crustaceans and Victoria is a vegetarian. Fortunately, Dim Sum Go Go is one of the rare Dim Sum spots that have a wide variety of vegetarian options as well as the standard seafood and pork dishes. There is no better way to begin a New York day than with fresh, hot dim sum. Apres brunch HG/BSK walked to bustling Broadway in Soho for some last minute Christmas shopping at Uniqlo, Lululemon and other wondrous shops. Values galore. Back to the hotel for restoring green tea and the pleasure of the New York Giants and remarkable Beckham performing well on the TV screen. In the evening, SJ’s long time pal, the beautiful and talented Zena B., picked up HG/BSK and they motored off to the depths of Queens, the American Capital of Multi-Ethnicity. Their destination was Cafe Arzu, a kosher Jewish Uzbek restaurant. This was the site of SJ’s eccentric birthday party with a few guests including SJ’s oldest friends (almost brothers) Adam S. and Jon S. (surprise visitor from LA). Decor of Arzu is Soviet Grim. However, the birthday table laden with vodka, beer and red wine enlivened the atmosphere. Customers at Arzu seemed to range from Russian gangsters to pious, bearded Chassidim. All having loud fun. The cuisine of Uzbekistan is, to understate, robust. The SJ birthday group dug into platters of sliced tomatoes, thinly sliced raw onions (lots of chopped dill), very good pickles. There were toasts to the birthday boy. Brief speeches. Much hilarity, Modest inebriation. Platters of food arrived. Juicy meat and pumpkin dumplings. Lagman, a sort of Uzbek ramen containing beef cubes plus addictive, chewy noodles. Arzu specializes in kebabs and these are spectacularly flavorful. The group consumed skewers of lamb, beef, chicken, chicken wings and lamb ribs. The wings and ribs were HG’s favorites and the hungry oldster overindulged. Beloved son SJ is one of life’s originals. No one but SJ would ever arrange an Uzbek birthday party.

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Holiday Feasting (Day Two)

December 25th, 2014 § 1 comment § permalink

Comfy Amtrak travel to New York and HG/BSK arrived at their Lower East Side hotel room for a rousing reunion with SJ, Exquisite Maiko plus the grand grandkids, Haru and Teru. A walk on East Broadway, a bowl of steaming pork and watercress soup at a Chinese eatery, brief nap, a hot shower and off to Vic’s, Restaurateur Daughter Victoria’s new venture in the same space that housed her Five Points restaurant on Great Jones Street in Noho for more than ten years. Vic’s has had much buzz because of ecstatic reviews (mentioned by HG in a previous post). When HG/BSK arrived at Vic’s they were dazzled by the new decor. Simple, Warm. Welcoming. Exposed brick. Flattering light. A ceiling that muffles much noise but allows enough to create a lively atmosphere. Tables and chairs that evoked an elegant farmhouse. And, there was Victoria, looking svelte and fashionable. She joined HG/BSK at a corner table and a perfect meal made stately progress. Chef Hillary Sterling combines imagination, precision, technique with an appreciation for down to earth tastes that evoke Italian countryside trattorias and eateries nestled on Mediterranean beaches. Her first creation HG/BSK enjoyed was a platter of crisp fried sweet onions dusted with parmesan and dried tomatoes. Pure, simple deliciousness that hit all the right notes of salty, sweet and crunchy. This was followed by little neck clams, pistachios, cannelloni beans and lovage in an intense clam broth. The sea theme continued with smoky, juicy grilled sardines adorned with thin shaved curls of baby carrot. The refreshing white wine was put aside and a fruity red was poured as three different pasta tastings were introduced. First, there was the Roman classic, cacio e pepe prepared with pecorino and parmesan. Then there were “little purses” of delicate pasta filled with ricotta, lemon and hazelnuts. The pasta finale: Tortellini filled with potato and guanciale (pork jowl) in a powerful pork brodo that sang of bacony goodness with remarkably none of the grease. There was just enough appetite left for a shared taste of some lush chocolate and snifters of house concocted limoncello (best HG/BSK ever tasted). Vic’s is a happy restaurant.The diners were visibly and audibly having a good time. And, why not? Splendid food, fair prices, pleasant surroundings, attentive service. HG advice: Reserve in advance. Vic’s is hot.

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Holiday Feasting (Day One)

December 25th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

First off — a Merry Christmas from HG to all of you. This Christmas tale will be told a bit in reverse given the timing, but what the hell!

Airport food has changed. For the better. While traveling east for family fun in New York and Rhode Island, HG/BSK and Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia dined well at airport eateries in Albuquerque and Kansas City (Flying east from New Mexico means a stop in KC). Black Mesa at the Albuquerque Sunport served a lush southwestern quiche filled with local green chiles and good ham. In KC, the travelers had a splendid meal at the aptly named Pork and Pickle. Pulled pork sliders in a tangy (not too sweet) barbecue sauce on three soft buns with cole slaw and crisp pickles. Ice cold Stella Artois beer served in beautiful chilled glasses. Crisp, fresh French fries. What’s not to like? When the weary trio arrived at the waterfront Rhode Island home of HG/BSK’s daughter, the gifted Lesley R. and her husband Massimo R., the brilliant professor, a New England dinner (with some Italian touches) awaited. Rhode Island chowder with plenty of local clams and firm fleshed cod. The meal ended with some very fragrant, ripe Robiola cheese with a ciabatta loaf and spicy pear preserves. Good red wine. Happiness.

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Holiday Feasting

December 22nd, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

HG/BSK are going east for the traditional feasting and gifting jamboree with their joyous Anglo-Irish-Canadian-American-Italian-Jewish-Japanese family (Quick! Please have eligibles marry an African-American and a Latino so we can complete our Rainbow Coalition). Festivities will start in New York a few days before Christmas where HG/BSK will dine at Vic’s, the much-lauded new restaurant venture of HG’s daughter, Restaurateur Victoria F. Scheduled is a dim sum feast at Dim Sum Go Go in Chinatown with the SJ family (and Victoria). Also on schedule is an Uzbekistan Grand Bouffe in Queens celebrating SJ’s birthday. And, while BSK is doing some last minute shopping, HG will knock off some oysters and wine with Victoria at Balthazar, the brasserie which keeps the old time Paris traditions alive. (Yes, the best Paris brasserie is located in New York). Christmas Eve means the traditional Jewish Feast of the Seven Fishes (courtesy of SJ and Russ & Daughters). And, what surprise will Gifted Daughter Lesley R. spring on Christmas Day? Brisket? Osso buco ? Bollito misto ? Traditional turkey? And, is there a new Rhode Island restaurant to be tried? HG has heard rumors about an Indian restaurant in Bristol. Of course, there is old standby Hemenway’s which serves splendid New England oysters as well as Rhode Island clams on the half shell (best in the world), an HG favorite. Hey, food lovers, are you envious? You should be.

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Jerusalem Eats

December 17th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

This week HG has been eating in Jerusalem (culinarily speaking). Thankfully, HG doesn’t have to be in Jerusalem, because no matter how holy Jerusalem is supposed to be (HG, a non-believer, finds this notion spurious) HG has always identified it as a city with a long history of super bloody violence. Read “Jerusalem: The Biography” by Simon Sebag Montefiore. Wade through 3,000 years of slaughter, madness and fanaticism (much in the name of “faith.”). However, there are two guys who have surmounted the nuttiness of Jerusalem (sensibly, they live in London). The two native Jerusalemites are Yotam Ottllenghi (an Israeli) and Sami Tamimi (an Arab). Business partners, former lovers and proprietors of a number of very successful London restaurants, Yotam and Sami have written a cookbook entitled “Jerusalem.” Illustrated with evocative photographs, the book is a treasure house of savory, enticing recipes. This week, much to the delight of HG/BSK and Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia, dinner has been pure Jerusalem. First night was “Sweet and Sour Fish.”. Cod was fried lightly and then covered with onions, peppers, tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, olive oil, curry powder and a host of other spices. Heated until cod was cooked through. Served at room temperature. Perfect as an appetizer or main.dish. Next night was “Lamb meatballs with Fava Beans and Lemon.” The cookbook describes these meatballs as “Fresh, sharp and very, very tasty.” Accurate description. BSK served them with couscous which soaked up the lush sauce. Next night: “Turkey & Zucchini Burgers with Green Onion and Cumin.” HG made a sauce of Greek yogurt, sour cream, Aleppo pepper, sea salt, much garlic, olive oil, sumac and zaatar. A blast of taste. So, does the Yotam-Sami partnership and their focus on the magnificent Israeli-Arab food of the city they were raised in hold out hope for amity in Jerusalem? HG’s answer, sadly, is “No.”

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Let It Snow, Let is Snow

December 15th, 2014 § 0 comments § permalink

Snow was falling last night. Big, wet flakes turned the HG/BSK meadow a glittering white. Temp took a dip. (No fear. Snow rapidly disappears in the high and dry warmth of New Mexican sunshine). Snowfall here means a roaring fireplace, much to drink and comfort food on the table. That’s the way it was when talented pals Polly B. (the brilliant photographer) and David F. (novelist/historian/educator) joined HG/BSK and Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia for dinner. Flutes of Prosecco (with a dash of Aperol, Venetian style) were sipped as BSK’s latest pots were admired. At the table there was a cold bottle of very good Champagne and a platter of Zabar’s Nova Scotia smoked salmon. This was followed by the paragon of comfort food: Meat loaf. This was no ordinary meat loaf. It was Paul Prudhomme’s Cajun Meat Loaf, loaded with spicy New Orleans flavors. BSK showered it with mushroom sauce and flanked it with BSK’s unique smashed potatoes. Much red wine. Meal ended with Trader Joe’s Salted Caramel Ice Cream and ginger cookies. Good food. Good wine. Good friends. Let it snow, let it snow.

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On The High Road To Taos

December 13th, 2014 § 2 comments § permalink

The Big Guy in the Sky may summon the Moloch Hamoves, the black, winged Angel of Death, at any time with little warning (HG is 85, after all). But, until that dramatic moment HG will have a delightful time in New Mexico, appropriately named The Land of Enchantment. Today, for example. Our pal, Karen K., the distinguished film maker, dessert creator extraordinary, etc, suggested brunch at Sugar Nymphs Bistro, a tiny eatery in the little town of Penasco, located on the high road to Taos between Santa Fe and Taos. There is no more beautiful drive in America than motoring through the historic towns of Chimayo, Truces and Cordova with vistas of mesas and mountains unfolding before your eyes. We were particularly fortunate on this drive because the skies were blue and cloudless, the light was pure and the air was crisp and fragrant. The food at Sugar Nymphs was delicious and touched with a particular kind of New Mexican goodness. Our group had egg scrambles with three kinds of cheese, onions, peppers plus sides of home fries and chiles. Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia had a giant, green chile cheeseburger on a home baked bun which she said was the best burger ever. There were many warm biscuits with cherry jam to accompany the good coffee. A memorable brunch. On the way back to our homes in the Pojoaque Valley, our group stopped at a few cemeteries in the region. There is nothing quite like these New Mexico Latino cemeteries. There is a love and reverence for the dead. Graves are carefully tended and adorned with bunches of artificial flowers. Portraits of the dead adorn many of the graves. Sadly, there are too many graves of young men (auto accident? drug overdose? violence?) with tombstones placed by their grieving mothers. There is no adequate way to describe these cemeteries with their atmosphere of fervent religious faith, belief in the hereafter and acceptance of untimely death. They are just the essence of blood-and-history drenched New Mexico. And, HG/BSK/GG Sofia had the perfect guide, New Mexico native Karen K.

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Better Beets From BSK

December 10th, 2014 § 2 comments § permalink

HG has long believed that the only proper role of beets was to provide the basis for ice cold, pink (with the addition of sour cream) borscht, a summer staple of HG’s youth. Nobody ever made it better than HG’s Mom, the late Ida Kopkind Freeman. HG did not like any other preparation of beets. Roast (or braised) beets seemed incompatible with wine. HG did not share the enthusiasm for salads of beets with goat (or blue) cheese and walnuts. Thus, HG did not look forward with anticipation to the beets BSK prepared last night to accompany a meal of pan fried Icelandic cod, steamed haricots vert and tiny potatoes. Surprise. BSK’s beets were a mind changer: Sweet, Spicy, Smoky. How did creative BSK do it? Golden and red beets were cut into small cubes. They were then sautéed with chopped sweet onion in Sicilian olive oil. Lots of smoked black pepper plus some sea salt. Pan was covered and the mix was cooked until the beets softened. The final touch. BSK took off the cover and poured in some syrupy, old balsamic vinegar (the real stuff, not the insipid liquid found on most supermarket shelves). Pan was covered again and cooking went on for a few more minutes so the vinegar could infuse the beets and onions. The result: A revelation.

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