HUNGRY GERALD

Yes, life in HG/BSK’s homes–a 3,200 square foot artist’s loft in Central Falls, RI, and an oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island, Canada–is comfortable, safe and exhilarating for 95-year-old HG. However, HG (and BSK) miss Vancouver, B.C. HG/BSK owned a beautiful duplex loft there in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood (fabulous sea, mountain and skyscraper views) and spent many long vacations in the world’s most liveable city. BSK was overjoyed with BSK’s steam shower bathroom and HG lolled happily in HG’s bathroom which featured an oversized soaking tub. HG/BSK biked everywhere—to beaches, the great public market (a wonderland of fresh fruit and vegetables; cheese; bread; French and Italian charcuterie; Asian products; meat; fish; oysters–and much more); museums, galleries, cinemas and restaurants. Ah, those restaurants!! Tojo had superlative sushi and other Japanese dishes; Vij’s had the best Indian food HG/BSK ever tasted. Scores of Chinese, Thai, Cambodian, casual sushi and other Asian eateries—all very good. HG/BSK’s condo building–The Cornerstone–was a short walk to Congee Noodle House on Broadway near Main. HG breakfasted or lunched there daily (sometimes brought home steamed chicken; roast duck and pork; vegetables; noodles and Mapo Tofu for a dinner with wine). HG’s early lunch consisted of shrimp wraps; congee with sliced fish; wonton soup (tastiest ever breakfast or early lunch). So, why did HG leave this scenic and culinary paradise? The answer–Geography. Daughter Lesley Riva and family (husband Massimo, and two daughters –Arianna and  Sofia)  lived in Rhode Island.  Son Jeremy and family (wife Maiko Sakamoto and son Haru and daughter Teru) lived in Brooklyn. It didn’t make sense to be separated by more than 3,000 mile. There was a need for a vacation property on the east coast that could house everyone. So–Goodbye (with tears), Vancouver. Hello, Prince Edward Island (jolly family times for many years and looking forward to this summer).

Yes. Brooklyn’s venerable Peter Luger’s Steak House is still in business as is New York City’s oldest steak house, The Old Homestead. There are two perennials on the West Side in the Theater District–Gallagher’s and Franky & Johnnie.  Palm (franchised throughout the USA) and Smith & Wollensky are on the East Side of Manhattan and still grilling. Many newcomers throughout the boroughs. The best steak house was long closed Christ Cella on E. 43rd. This was HG’s choice for steaks and chops (shad and shad roe in season). Incomparable cooking and quality. When HG was a journalist in the 1950’s, New York had “Steak Row” on E. 45th between Lexington and Third Avenue–Danny’s Hideaway, Pen & Pencil, Press Box, Editorial. (Joe & Rose was on Third Avenue and McCarthy’s was on Second Avenue). HG ate often at Assembly  (Near the UN and owned by Ronnie Drinkhouse). Cavanagh’s on W. 23rd Streetwas very good and had a long run (1876-1973). Spark’s is still thriving–famed for a gangland execution outside its entrance.  Spark’s has a top flight wine list. HG ate there with public relations client William Zeckendorf, Jr. and he ordered Jordan, a wine that dazzled HG. Generous Bruce Maguire brought some bottles as a gift when HG/BSK lived in Colorado. When HG/BSK lived in Colorado (Golden and Denver), HG often had lunch  at the Palm outpost and chatted with the State’s big shots. Like the Manhattan counterpart, Denver adorned its walls with cartoons of distinguished customers.  So–there was a big cartoon of HG in a visible, significant wall location.

Drinking a lot of water is essential for digestion and health. Recommended eight glasses a day seems excessive (At age 95 with a weak bladder, this amount guarantees urination would be HG’s principal activity). However, HG drinks water and is selective about the choices. Topo Chico, the Mexican mineral water is the best and the acqua dispensed by the refrigerator dispenser is very good–and convenient. As for tap water, New York City’s is superb – piped in via aqueducts from vast reservoirs in the Adirondacks (Folks believe the City’s water is the secret ingredient in traditional bagels and bialys). Florida and Las Vegas tap water is the worst. Guides suggest you order tap water in Paris restaurants and save money by ignoring bottled waters. HG tried this. Feh!! It had a nasty taste. On subsequent meals in Paree, HG drank Badoit or Perrier.

Sweets Seafood Restaurant, located on Fulton Street close to the Fulton Fish Market on New York’s East River waterfront, was the oldest (1842-1945) and best seafood restaurant in New York. Young HG had a part time job as a stationary salesman in the Wall Street (close to Sweets) area and ate at the restaurant frequently. HG often ordered sole meuniere and oysters. Superb. Though underaged, HG was served beer without a qualm or an ID inspection.. HG often had other dishes–swordfish, pompano, flounder, sea bass. The fish was broiled or sauteed–customer’s choice. Fried oysters with a lush tartar sauce was a treat. Very spartan decor and very old waiters (Who greeted regulars like HG with a minimal smile). Customers included Wall Streeters plus the aristocratic coffee, tea, cocoa importers who did business in antique filled one story buildings on Water Street. Sweets had a vast wine, beer and cocktail menu.. The bar motto: “You name it. We’ll mix it.” Sweets was founded by Abraham M. Sweet–thus the name. The seafood at Sweets was sparkling fresh. It was purchased by the Sweets’ chefs daily at the Fulton Fish Market as soon as the market opened in the dark of the night. No, it’s not nostalgia. Sweets was The Emperor of Seafood.

From the 1950’s onward, Hong Fat (long closed) in Manhattan’s Chinatown was HG’s favorite Chinese restaurant. It was unbelievably cheap–even in those dollar friendly years. The seafood dishes were outstanding. HG’s favorite was the crabs served in a number of different sauces–all splendid. An odd custom at Hong Fat–waiters cleaned the tables by pouring hot tea on them before wiping them down. Almost all of the customers were Chinese (HG/BSK were the exceptions). Walls had the names pinned on them (in Chinese) of many special dishes. Customers would order by pointing to their choice, One day, an adjoining table pointed to the wall and were served what seemed to be an appetizing dish. HG told the waiter that HG would have the same. The waiter frowned and said: “You won’t like it. This is only for Chinese.” HG insisted  Still expressing disapproval, the waiter brought the dish. HG tasted. E-e-k-s!! Horror! This was the worst thing HG ever tasted and it smelled like a dirty old sock. The waiter smiled as HG pushed the dish away. Smiling waiter said: “I told you.”

HG’s children and grandchildren have asked 95-year-old HG what New York was like when HG–in the 1950’s–was a young journalist. It was a totally different city–affordable for young folks from the United States and internationally to realize their ambitions in The Big Apple. The changes have been cosmic–but HG will narrow observations to the food and restaurant scene many decades ago. Immigration and wars enriched New York’s culinary choices. In the ’50’s New York had one (yes,one) Mexican restaurant and it was lousy. There were two Japanese restaurants (Suehiro was HG’s choice). No sushi in NYC. No Korean, Indian, Cambodian restaurants. On the positive side, New York had many Greek and Spanish restaurants. There were many traditional French bistros in the theater district and elsewhere on the West Side. Of course, there were over 100 Italian restaurants in the boroughs and much Jewish cuisine –“appetizing stores”, delicatessens, bakeries, seltzer dispensers, kosher butchers, kosher and non-kosher Jewish restaurants; Jewish style eateries like Tip Toe Inn, Lindy’s, Reuben’s; knish joints. There was one Chinatown and it was in Manhattan. Chinatown restaurants were inexpensive and served great food. It was the “go’to” neighborhood for everyone with big appetites and limited means. Best Germans were Luchow’s (14th Street)and Blue Ribbon (in the theater district and a favorite of Marlene Dietrich and Eric Maria Remarque). Irish: Dinty Moore’s (theater district–ultimate corned beef and cabbage), Connolly’s Bar & Grill (E. 23rd Street–a favorite of Police, it served one dish–sublime pot roast in a lush gravy). Irish bars all over Manhattan served steam table corned beef and cabbage—good, bad and splendid.  Yes, you ate well in New York if you ate Italian, Chinese, German, Irish and Jewish food–the cuisines remain HG favorites today. But, HG has added Mexican, Japanese, Middle Eastern dishes to suppers  (these and many, many others are cooked daily by BSK, a talented, creative and innovative cook). BSK removes the necessity of dining in restaurants. Her food is better.

Nom  Wah, the dim sum restaurant on Doyers Street in Manhattan’s Chinatown, used to be the only dim sum restaurant in Manhattan–now there scores in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. HG began eating there about 73 years ago alone and with friends. When alone,HG had a bottle of I.W. Harper Bourbon Whisky on the table and drank copiously (Ah, those were the days when HG could do that and remain erect,mobile and relatively sober). An aged waitress brought individual portions of dim sum on small colored plates–the colors indicated the price of the items. The waitress examined the empty plates and gave HG a bill (A cash transaction since this preceded credit cards). HG would remove 10 plates (HG ate a lot of dim sum as HG read the Times and sipped booze) and hide them on HG’s lap. When the waitress came around to count the empty plates and write the bill, she was startled and shocked. Why so few plates? Finally, HG revealed the plates and there was much laughter. When son Jeremy and daughter came around to enrich HG/BSK’s life, Nom Wah had gone down hill and HG/BSK discovered other tasty venues for weekend dim sum lunches  (From their earliest days, Jeremy and Lesley were big time dim sum fans—as was BSK). Alas, the bourbon disappeared from the table (BSK’s request) and was replaced by tea and beer.  In retrospect, this was a good move. When living in New York (Brooklyn) Jeremy and wife, Maiko Sakamoto, introduced HG/BSK to Dim Sum a Go Go in Chinatown. So good that HG/BSK had HG/BSK’s 50th Wedding Anniversary celebration party there. Very appropriate since HG’s first date with BSK (A bit more than 61 years ao) included dinner at  the long closed BoBo restaurant in Chinatown. Recently, Nom Wah was refurbished and renewed. HG/BSK (In a nostalgic mood) ate there. Too bad. Insipid. The old magic has gone.

Beloved BSK, a very creative cook, has been making lusty suppers with a mix of rice noodles, broth, vegetables, fish and aromatics. The fish is always sparkling fresh (Rhody is aptly named The Ocean State). Yes, it’s frigid weather but HG/BSK are warm and cozy and eat happily in HG/BSK’ spacious Central Falls, RI, loft. Last night, using Whole Foods broth, BSK made steaming bowls of Vietnamese Pho. Lots of rice noodles and veggies plus a surprise—floating on top of the bowls were filets of perfectly poached salmon (silky, medium rare texture). Soy sauce, Frank’s Hot  Sauce, Vietnamese fish sauce were on the table to be used with discretion. HG, who loves noodles, fish and everything Vietnamese, was in culinary heaven thanks to BSK. (If you wish to know about HG’s affection for Jewish noodle dishes, go to the Hungry Gerald archive:  LUKSHEN Feb.14, 2019).

HG is very fond of noodles and there are scores to taste and enjoy. Yes, there’s Italian pasta with an almost infinite amount of shapes and stuffed varieties. (ravioli,tortellini,etc).Then there are Asiatic noodles—buckwheat, rice, egg–that come in many widths and enrich ramen, soups, stir fries, etx. HG enjoys thick, Jewish egg noodles (Manischewitz is the best brand) in a bowl of cottage cheese and melted butter and in a steaming bowl of chicken soup. Farfalle (butterfly) pasta is added to Kasha to make much loved Kasha Varnishkes–and there’s an HG joy–Lukshen (noodle pudding)–savory with chicken fat or sweet with raisins and dried apricots. Last night, BSK made a wonderful three layer noodle dish HG had never tasted. before.  Of course, it was super delicious. The bottom layer was cooked rice noodles. This was topped with a mix of chopped peppers, fennel, onions and garlic. Top layer was two filets of fresh flounder. It got a big splash of olive oil, hot sauce, salt and pepper. It was cooked in the oven and BSK served it with a smile—another BSK culinary home run. Every BSK supper in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft is a feast.

Each morning HG eats a healthy, keep-the-old-guy-alive  breakfast. It is cooked, organized and served by Wonder Wife BSK. It consists of a smoothie (many varieties of fruit plus nuts), yogurt mixed with a compote of dried fruit—20 vitamins and medications. A large glass of water. It’s followed by coffee and a piece of Italian Panettone. Nice jumpstart to the day. For years in New York and New Jersey, HG’s breakfast was: Black coffee, Marlboro Cigarettes and The New York Times (after the unhealthy Jersey meal, HG would stop at a Montclair, NJ convenience store and buy a box of cinnamon donuts. HG would eat them with more coffee at the HG public relations office in Clifton, NJ.). HG/BSK moved to Colorado–first to a 100-acre horse ranch and then to a super spacious apartment in Denver plus a large office for HG/BSK’s growing government relations firm specializing in media information and land use counseling and guidance. (BSK was the prime figure in the firm). HG’s breakfast dramatically improved. Most mornings HG dined at Pete’s Diner on Colfax Avenue, drank coffee and ate Pete’s sumptuous “Breakfast burrito”—smothered in tangy green chili sauce and containing scrambled eggs, fried potatoes, bacon, onions. (SJ agrees, a fabulous burrito). After moving to Santa Fe, HG’s morning meal was at El Parasol or Sopaipilla Factory–Menudo and cheese enchiladas. Now, HG/BSK live in a very large loft in Central Falls, RI. HG is 95 so HG’s breakfast a la BSK is appropriate.