HUNGRY GERALD

BSK (The love of HG’s life) cooks delectable meals every night at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI. loft. An eminent restaurant critic said that great restaurants must serve outstanding food–but also be consistent. That describes BSK’s home cooking. Yes, HG eats well at home but also at Rhody’s numerous ethnic restaurants, clam bars, oyster eateries, etc. The state’s official dish is squid with hot peppers–Ocean State folk enjoy robust food. However, sometimes wistful nostalgia overtakes HG when he recalls restaurants of the past when HG/BSK lived in New York and New Jersey. New York winners: Grand Central Oyster Bar and its fabulous Oyster Pan Roast. (Still open and thriving).  Gage & Tollner famed for its mutton chop, sauteed clam bellies and shad and shad roe when in season (Closed for some years but now reopened–lofty prices). Christ Cella–best steak in the world (long closed). Sammy’s Roumanian–schmaltz, icy vodka, very good Eastern European/Jewish food served in a room bursting with noise, music and Jews having a drunken good time. (Original location closed but now reopening in a new downtown location). Coach House–Superb lamb chops, black bean soup (long cllosed). Sweets–plain spoken seafood restaurant (Long closed). Russian Tea Room–salmon caviar and blini, borscht, karsky shashlik (HG refers to the RTR of years ago. It closed and reopened as a glitzy, insipid “luxury” restaurant). Rappaport’s–best Jewish “dairy” restaurant (long closed). Le Veau d’Or–A cozy happy bistro reminiscent of Paris and serving classic dishes like brains and black butter (long closed but has now reopened with excellent food and stratospheric prices). HG/BSK enjoyed Chinese, Vietnamese, Korean food in the Chinatown, Flushing and Sunset Park neighborhoods.They are still going strong. New Jersey: Belmont Tavern in Belleville has gained national fame with its Stretch’s Chicken Savoy and bowls of cavatelli in tomato and cheese sauce. Stretch is gone but the dishes remain lush with no changes. RT 46 in Clifton is home to many wonderful Italian restaurants and their many fans keep them busy.

HG/BSK’s wonderful daughter, Lesley Riva, is a renaissance woman–multi talented and brilliant. She’s the communications director of a major health service provider. She’s a wonderful cook; a clear sighted adviser to her two adult daughters–Arianna and Sofia; loving wife, partner and companion of Massimo Riva (happily married for many decades). She’s an irreplaceable aid to HG/BSK–her selfless assistance has helped HG  be 95 and reasonably mobile.  Lesley sings with RPM, a rousing interracial gospel chorus.  A few nights ago, HG/BSK attended a performance by RPM  at the Beneficent Church in Providence. A blessed night, indeed. There were outstanding solos and many songs punctuated by rhythmic hand clapping from the audience. Beneficent is a historic and beautiful church with a long history of social activism. It was a stop on the “Underground Railroad”,the escape route from the South by Blacks fleeing slavery. It welcomed Chinese, when Chinese were targets of hate and persecution.Today, the church notes it is “Queer Friendly”. In this time of darkness, Beneficent remains a beacon of light.

HG/BSK have a pleasant custom–alternate home dinners with daughter, Lesley R. and her husband Massimo. (They live in Riverside, RI, a moderate drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft). HG/BSK follow this custom at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home with BSK’s sister, Noel, and her husband, Yossi, even though this means a 40 minute drive. This Sunday it was dinner at the HG/BSK home.  Lesley and Massimo generously provided a Chinese feast  (L. and M. know that HG lusts for Chinese gourmand treats). The food came from Chengdu Taste, a restaurant that compares with the very good eateries in New York’s Chinatown, Sunset Park and Flushing neighborhoods. Sunday’s supper began with hot and sour soup (the best HG ever tasted). This was followed by Szechuan fish (spicy); wontons in chili oil(super spicy); mapo tofu  (moderate level of heat); minced pork (lusty veggie sauce); stewed eggplant (HG’s favorite vegetable dish–just slightly below in-season sweet corn); string beans (a BSK fave); ample rice noodles and white rice. HG was beyond happy–HG was ecstatic. Everyone drank Gansett Pilsener–very much like a Czech beer. Lesley and Massimo:  A zillion thanks from HG/BSK.

Supper last night was a tasty BSK improvisation—fish curry. BSK cooked monkfish on the range in a saucepan. The fish nestled in a sauce of fish stock, olive oil,garam masala, onions, garlic, curry powder and Indian spices. BSK added some chunks of zucchini. (HG made HG’s portion “picante” with Frank’s Hot Sauce). Served on a bed of rice and accompanied by Major Grey’s Chutney, the food warmed body and soul on a chilly night. Monkfish is a good choice for this dish. It stays firm and tender after simmering. Halibut would be an alternative. Alas, too pricey. Cod, unfortunately, would fall apart in the pan. BSK has never cooked monkfish before. HG is sure BSK will improvise sauteed and baked or roasted monkfish suppers. Monkfish tastes a bit like lobster so melted butter with a squeeze of lemon juice might be a good idea. 

It was Thanksgiving Day dinner for two —HG and BSK. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was a frisky and loving companion. HG/BSK’s initial plan was to substitute a Bell & Evans spatchcocked chicken for a turkey and serve it with the usual Gobbler Day accompaniments—-  cranberry sauce, stuffing, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts and lots of gravy. Alas, Market Basket was sold out of those wonderful birds and BSK wouldn’t settle for a lesser chicken. So, BSK substituted duck for two meals—modestly priced Bell & Evans duck legs for one meal and expensive duck breasts from another provider for the other. BSK followed a Nigella Lawson recipe (with some tweaks) for the duck legs Nigella calls the dish “Roast Duck Legs With Potatoes”. When sizzled on the range in an oven proof pan, the legs release lots of yummy duck fat. BSK cut potatoes into cubes and added thyme and some other spices plus salt and pepper. When the duck legs and potatoes were modestly browned BSK put  the pan in a 350 degree fahrenheit oven and roasted the duck for two hours (or a bit less). Roasting in duck fat produces  crisp skinned and juicy legs  and potatoes that, in Nigella’s phrase, “are crunchy on the outside and divinely soaked with duck fat on the inside.”  BSK served this with charred brussel sprouts. This was the best Thanksgiving Day dinner HG ever had in HG’s multi years of fressing. Turkey? Fuhgeddaboudit!!!!! On the next night, BSK seared the duck breasts in a cast iron pans. HG insisted they be cooked medium rare in the style of Chez Georges, the renowned Paris bistro. BSK served them with quinoa and a Japanese barbecue sauce. Good–but HG/BSK agreed–they needed more cooking. HG’s insistence often interferes with BSK’s culinary good sense and instincts. At both meals HG/BSK had many glasses of very good red wine. The last glasses were accompanied by Enstrom Butter Toffee and Brittle Brothers Peanut Brittle—the ultimate candies.

Orzo is one of HG’s favorite pasta shapes. The diminutive shapes cook quickly and are tasty, comforting and versatile. For breakfast, HG has orzo mixed with melted butter, cottage cheese, sea salt and ground black pepper (Better than any cereal—and when softly scrambled or poached eggs are added, the dish becomes celestial). At lunch, HG delights in orzo drenched in garlic fried in good olive oil–an alternative is orzo with butter and parmesan or pecorino. Last night, BSK tamed the cold weather with an orzo supper that was pure comfort. BSK cooked tomatoes, zucchini, onions, garlic, frozen corn kernels, basil, mozzarella and peppers in olive oil. BSK added chicken broth to this melange plus feta cheese and a dash of balsamic vinegar— plus a half cup of tomato paste. Orzo was added to the bubbling sauce/vegetable goodness. The orzo cooked in the mix, so it was a one pot meal (Less clean up work for BSK). The supper was so tasty that HG had two big bowls(Thought about a third but that would be overkill).

Yes, Toby, The Wonder Dog, is in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Joy. The frisky little fellow is getting many belly rubs and cuddles when he pauses bounding from room to room (It’s a 3,200 square foot space so Toby’s getting needed exercise). HG has missed Toby. He lives with daughter Lesley, husband Massimo and pet, Pip, in their Riverside, RI, home. Toby and Pip play together in the big backyard. And, they accompany HG/BSK when HG/BSK go  to HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home for the traditional late spring/ early autumn/summer stay. Toby is in Central Falls while Lesley and Massimo spend Thanksgiving holiday with their daughter, Arianna, and her companion, Adam, at their Colorado home. Ever greedy Toby sits  on the floor next to HG gazing at HG with irresistible pleading eyes.He wants HG to drop morsels to him. BSK disapproves . HG and Toby fear BSK disapproval so Toby remains.unfed. Better for his health–like BSK, Toby remains svelte.

HG is fond of stuffed vegetables. Last night, BSK made a happy supper—fresh red peppers stuffed with ground pork,onions, garlic, spices, herbs all moistened by a rich stock. Super yummy. (BSK makes a similar lush dish using zucchini). HG’s introduction to tasty stuffies (No, not referring to stuffed Rhode Island clams) happened when HG was a toddler. HG wouldn’t eat spinach, a proven healthy vegetable. HG’s clever late Mom made balls of buttery mashed potatoes and stuffed them with the hated spinach. The little fellow ate them with a good appetite. At this time, HG loves every type of stuffed dumpling, Japanese gyoza and shumai, Chinese dim sum. Ravioli and pierogi are also favored. Best of all stuffed dishes was the stuffed cabbage cooked by HG’s late Mom. In Yiddish, they are called “holishkes.” They had a unique sweet and sour spicy flavor. They were loved by the HG family and relatives—cousins, aunts and uncles-. All would show up at Mom’s Bronx kitchen when Mom was making holishkes. When the great German/Jewish poet and writer, Heinrich Heine, ate  holishkes at a Vienna restaurant, he exclaimed: “What a noble religion we have!!!).

HG is 95. The old fellow has lived through radical cancer surgery, broken hip, (surgery) right leg spiral fracture (surgery). HG is still active and mobile (with the aid of walkers for indoor and outdoor use). No signs of dementia (yes, there’s some senior moment forgetfulness. Appetite for food and wine (moderate amount) remains robust. Yes, HG is enjoying life. It’s not the genes. Nobody in HG’s family has ever reached HG’s present age.  BSK takes care of HG, making every effort to keep him healthy and happy. BSK believes HG’s longevity owes much to nutrition. BSK prepares breakfasts, lunches and suppers that supply HG with energy—and, happily, are delicious. BSK is an excellent cook–creative and imaginative. BSK is also consistent. There are no mishaps. The dining table is a place of joy–proving that healthy food tastes good while carefully balancing proteins, carbs, fats, etc. BSK believes doctors know little about nutrition and don’t stress its importance to their patients. A frightening percentage of Americans are obese. Tragically, many Americans have never tasted fresh, unprocessed food. Poverty creates a  reliance on fast and junk food. Sad.

New York’s best and shortest (five foot-two) Mayor, Fiorello Laguardia, deftly steered New York City through the Great Depression, World War Two and the early post-war years. The “Little Flower” presented HG with an award for coming in second place in a city wide American history contest (second place was a big time honor as there were hundreds of entries). Laguardia delighted HG’s late Mom, by saying: “Gerald, you must have a wonderful mother who is responsible for your prize.” When there was a brief newspaper strike in 1945, Laguardia read the comics to young radio listeners (Station WNYC). The Mayor always noted that his favorite dish was “Pastafazoole” and he would relish a bowl after reading the comics. “Pastafazoole” is pasta e fagioli–a delicious  stew of  broth, onions, garlic, onions, tomato sauce, spices –plus cannellini beans and small shaped pasta. HG adds a pour of olive oil and hot sauce, before devouring this cold weather treat. BSK makes a tasty variant of this dish–broth, olive oil, garlic, spices, escarole and bacon. BSK purees the escarole (catering to HG’s constricted swallowing). HG had three bowls of this wondrous soup last night accompanied by an outstanding Spanish red wine. Happily, there was enough left over for some lunches.