HUNGRY GERALD

“Dairy Restaurants” were once abundant in New York—and HG enjoyed them. They were kosher–no meat. Specialties included kasha varnishkes, blintzes, pierogies, kreplach (stuffed with cheese); gefilte fish, soups (ice cold summer beet borscht and schav). Schav was sorrel soup and both soups were accompanied by boiled potatoes and sour cream. Almost every dish was enhanced by sour cream (“smetana”). Breads were fabulous–onion rolls (“pletzels”); bagels, bialys, sliced pumpernickel and Jewish rye bread. There was lots of cream cheese, pot cheese, cottage cheese, farmer cheese and, sometimes, roquefort. The two best “Dairys” were Ratner’s and Rappaport’s on the lower east side. The upper west side had the “Famous” on W.72nd (superior gefilte fish). Steinberg’s on the west side catered to classy customers. Sadly, all of these restaurants have vanished. One splendid dairy remains; B & H Dairy at 127 2nd Ave.(Yes, there are eateries called “Dairy” but they are not traditional–they serve pizzas, Mexican food, Italian food, etc.). B & H is the real deal–fabulous soups and challah. An innovation–a healthy and tasty vegetarian chili. There’s a very good book–“The Dairy Restaurant” by Ben Katchor. Informative and funny.

That’s what the late, great Jewish/German poet and writer said a century ago after eating a plate of “holishkes”  (sweet and sour stuffed cabbage) at a Viennese Jewish restaurant. HG’s late Mom, Ida Kopkind Freeman, made the world’s best stuffed cabbage. HG often had a one half portion as an appetizer before chomping away at a huge pastrami sandwich (Russian dressing and coleslaw) at the long closed Gitlitz Delicatessen on Broadway and 71st. St. in Manhattan. Yesteryear, there were scores of traditional Jewish delis in Manhattan—now only three remain—2nd Ave. Deli; Sarge’s and Katz’s. “Appetizing stores” have also faded away but there are some magnificent survivors—Russ & Daughters; Zabar’s, Barney Greengrass and Murray’s. Yes, there’s hope. Though a confirmed atheist and humanist, HG can still smile at Heine’s  witty and cynical comment—and relish traditional Jewish delicacies. In future posts, HG will discuss  yesteryear’s “meat” and “dairy”: (two separate categories) eateries.

HG was busy at lunch today in HG/BSK’s spacious (3,200 sq. ft.) Central Falls, RI, loft.  There was a lot of catching up –mail delivered here while family was at the Prince Edward Island oceanfront home; unread magazines, bills, etc. HG was absorbed in breaking news in The New York Times —plus obits, opinions, columns,essays, etc. Has American democracy become Fascist? Despite gloomy thoughts, HG had a convenient lunch of Virginia Diner Tailgate Trail Mix–ingredients included sesame batons plus plenty of nuts–almonds, cashews, peanuts, pumpkin seeds. HG augmented this mix with Planter’s cashews and washed it all down with a tall glass of one half orange juice and one half ice water .

Yes, HG/BSK are back in HG/BSK’s spacious, sunny. beautifully, decorated  (by BSK)) loft in the small city (contiguous to Providence) of Central Falls. Lots of dazzling BSK art (paintings and pottery) to gaze at. No ground chicken at the supermarket so BSK substituted ground turkey for BSK’s lush chicken ball/spinach/quinoa dish. Chunkier than chicken but very tasty. Toby, The Wonder Dog., was absent. The aging fellow will be at the Riva Riverside home with Riva pet, the gentle and intelligent Pip. More convenient. There will be weekly reunions with the mature doggies.

When HG lived in New York and New Jersey (yesteryear), men’s bathrooms (in hotels and restaurants) were staffed with courtly and helpful attendants (presume women’s bathrooms had female attendants). The Algonquin Hotel had a very distinguished attendant (HG presumes he was an aristocrat having difficult days). The Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel also had a regal attendant. Once, HG used a sanitary facility next to actor Cary Grant. HG noticed that Grant tipped the attendant five dollars (lavish). HG was content tipping one dollar. HG’s favorite men’s room was at the long demolished Polo Grounds in Manhattan (baseball and football Giants played there–the football Giants later moved to Yankee Stadium in The Bronx). The men’s room was staffed by an old Black man. He would chant “No matter if you shake or dance, the last drop will always fall in your. pants”. Before you left he would declaim: “If you had your little pee, don’t forget to remember me–old Sam.”  He was always tipped –sometimes as much as ten bucks.                                            

 Every BSC supper is a yummy delight. Last night, there was a fabulous bowl of orzo, zucchini,   bacon and chicken broth (much parmesan); this was followed by a ragout of Italian sausage, peppers and vegetables. Wonderful food. Joyous eating on  nights at  Riva/Freeman oceanfront home on serene Prince Edward Island and at HG/BSK’s spacious loft in Central Falls, .RI.                 ,

Yes, these are the best chili peppers and essential for BSK’s delicious and warming pork green chili stew. These peppers have some heat but are not mouth numbing. BSK is so fond of these peppers that BSK bought pounds at the Santa Fe Food Market, froze them.and they went off to Rhode Island  and Prince Edward Island. Cold night at PEI. BSK beat the chills with BSK’s incomparable green chili comfort dish. Thanks, Big Jim (and BSK).

Yes, super home chef BSK made enough of this wonderful dish for two tasty suppers. BSK mixed ground chicken with chopped spinach, spices and aromatics.  BSK rolled them into balls (golf ball dimensions) and baked them in the oven. They were served with quinoa (moistened with broth) and a tangy yogurt sauce. Stupendous. This was luxury eating on a chilly night in the Freeman/Riva oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island, a serene democracy that welcomes diversity. HG could eat this lush and comforting meal every night. It’s that good. 

HG has two Taschen art books–voluminous volume on David Hockney and a more modest sized book on Fernando Botero. Hockney is still alive and productive at 88. Botero died in 2023, aged 91.These are two of HG’s favorite artists and the books give HG much visual pleasure as HG looks at them from a comfortable leather lounge chair in HG/BSK’s family oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island, where free speech and democracy rule. There are few artists as productive as Hockney–portraits (large and small) , abstract and figurative paintings, gay characterizations of friends, lovers and idols (Christopher Isherwood), landscapes (small and monumental), etchings, collages, photography, stage sets and more ,much more. HG is very fond of Hockney’s Los Angeles swimming pool paintings, but HG’s speciâl love is for his huge, magnificent landscapes–so sorry can’t travel to London to see them. Botero’s paintings have an old master sheen and his vision of a bloated and frightening world give HG chills and thrills. No, these are not “fat” people but rather ingenious creations of volume. His paintings have wit and many subversive attacks on militarism and totalitarianism. His art demands your close attention and examination. And, they often make HG laugh.

Soup, soup–Glorious Soup!! Yes, that’s what HG has for lunch every day—warming, comforting, tasty. BSK makes sure there’s plenty of variety. Big winners are green tomato soup and chickpea soup topped with olive oil (Marcella Hazan’s recipe). That’s not all–BSK makes splendid squash soup (inspired  by BSK’s beloved late aunt Beulah K.–HG’s sister), broccoli soup, escarole soup, zucchini soup, cauliflower soup and more veggie based bowls of steaming goodness. HG likes a pot of hot chicken broth, garlic, parsley and tofu. Today, HG had a bowl of lovely carrot and ginger soup from a small shop BSK discovered in the PEI town, Souris. HG often has gustatory pleasure with canned soups like Amy’s (healthy)  and Rao’s bottled soups (Rao’s wedding soup is a killer). Soup for supper should be accompanied by bread and butter, cheese and hearty red wine.