HUNGRY GERALD

This is one of HG’s favorite dishes but finds the versions found in restaurants to be inferior. The exception is La Riviera Trattoria in Clifton, N.J. (The New Jersey towns across the Hudson River have many outstanding Italian restaurants). La Riviera uses littleneck clams in the dish and they work well (HG does prefer larger cherrystones). When in the glorious Italian jewel, Venice, HG lunches often on linguine con vongole. Only fault: The local clams from the lagoon are just too tiny. In order to make great linguine with clams, you need superior ingredients: Best extra virgin olive oil (BSK uses the Bono brand from Italy). Newly harvested garlic. Fresh and abundant cherrystone clams (called “quahogs” on Prince Edward Island). Good clam broth. Quality linguine (HG/BSK rely on the Garafolo brand). Dry white wine. Chopped flat leaf parsley. BSK combined all of these ingredients with BSK’s usual brilliant timing which left the clams still tender. (HG cooked the pasta to al dente perfection). The result: Big bowls of sea heaven. Viva Italia! Viva PEI! Viva BSK!

Yes, HG likes to cook with BSK. Of course, BSK is the leader and HG is the nuch shlepper (Translation for non YIddishists: Guy who follows behind). Tonight, BSK quickly sauteed a half dozen juicy scallops plucked from the Northumberland Strait. Big squeeze of lemon juice and some smoked black pepper. A great starter. (HG mused about the mystery of Anthony Bourdain, a favorite foodie…The guy who eats everything does not like scallops. Go figure.) BSK then boiled some potatoes and smashed them with dill, scallions, sour cream and olive oil. Main course was a a thick filet of Atlantic salmon. For this rich piece of fish, BSK transformed her elegantly simple sorrel soup into a lush and flavorful sauce with the addition of butter, shallots and a simmered reduction. The salmon itself was turned over to HG — Among HG’s varied abilities, is grilling salmon to a pink perfection. The rich sorrel sauce was poured over the state of the art fish. This led to a perfect Prince Edward Island supper (on PEI lunch is “dinner”). A fabulous sunset was part of the experience.

HG knows little about the island of Sardinia. However, HG knows a delicious pasta form when HG tastes it. Fregola Sarda is a favorite. Tiny balls of semolina flour are toasted and the result is a pasta that evokes kasha, Israeli couscous and bulgur rice–albeit with a taste and crunch all its own. Last night, HG/BSK supped on a favorite Sardinian dish–fregola with clams and tomatoes. Nothing could be simpler. Fregola is simmered in a mix of tomatoes, clam juice, white wine, loads of garlic and some red pepper flakes. When brought to an al dente state, the pan is topped with two dozen littleneck clams (known as “Quahogs” in PEI). The pan is covered. BSK watched carefully and served the moment the clams opened (tender and juicy). Ornamented the dish with a shower of flat leaf parsley. Wonderful eating. Preceded by a dozen oysters on the half shell. The big and briny specimens were purchased by HG at HG’s secret oyster source. The price: 50 cents (US) per oyster. Clams are $4.50 (US) a dozen. Yes, Prince Edward Island is bivalve heaven.

Lively dinner at home with Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother-in-law who are now PEI residents); their Israeli guests Dani and Maria. All admired the majestic sea views from HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. Dani is a vegetarian so an Indian vegetable feast was prepared. BSK cooked a cauliflower curry and an eggplant curry.The cauliflower was a mild, “dry” curry and the eggplant dish had a rich, semi fiery sauce. HG made , a lush dish of red kidney beans and rice enhanced by a plenitude of garam masala. All of the recipes were from the great Vancouver restaurateur Vikram Vij. They are infallible. Accompaniments were excellent naan from the Atlantic Superstore and bowls of cooling raita (Greek yogurt mixed with chopped cucumbers, radishes and scallions). And, of course, lots of fluffy rice. Mango chutney and lime pickles on the table. Dessert was fresh strawberries and ice cream followed by a local marc. Nobody missed being a pescatore or carnivore. The bonus was much left over rice which was boiled to make satisfying breakfast congee.