PEI: Oyster Heaven

June 8th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

HG has some food obsessions: Chinese food (as noted in a previous post); Japanese food (specially when prepared by the genius chef, HG’s daughter in law, Exquisite Maiko); oysters. When not resident on glorious Prince Edward Island, HG never feasts on an abundance of oysters. That’s because they are so expensive. They cost $2.50 to $3.00 per oyster in New York ($4.00 per in Paris). Happily, oysters are very affordable on PEI. Plus, big, briny, meaty Malpeques (or subtle Colville Bays) are better than any oysters HG has ever consumed in the USA or Europe. Yesterday, HG visited Atlantic Shellfish, major oyster wholesaler located on Red Head Road in the town of Morell. Customary friendly PEI welcome. HG learned that the company sells a variety of oysters, all delicious: Malpeque, Red Head Select, South Lake, Savage Blonde and Tuxedo. HG specified two dozen of the best Malpeques. The price (given the favorable balance between the USA and Canadian dollar) was about $.74 an oyster. At dinner, HG shucked a dozen (BSK limits herself to three oysters). Accompanied by a snifter of icy vodka, HG ate nine. Sublime.

PEI Joy

June 7th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Arrived at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home with its sweeping ocean views. Housekeepers did a good job. All was spic and span. Much accomplished. The exterior of BSK’s newly built studio has been shingled and attached to a water line. In the main residence, washing machine and dryer has been moved to a lower level location leaving room for much needed additional shelving in the pantry. And, the rotting and dangerous deck has been replaced. It is now sturdy and beautiful (a bit concerned about how much it will cost). Dinner was very special BSK linguine with Italian canned tuna, tomatoes, garlic, oil, anchovies and capers. The next day was brilliantly sunny and hot. BSK went to the town of Montague to fill the refrigerator and add to the overflowing pantry ( more shelving, please). Dinner was spectacular. An herbaceous spatchcocked chicken plus smashed PEI potatoes (BSK enriches the mineral rich spuds with chicken stock and scallions). Local yellow beans and a salad of avocado, sweet onions and kumatoes. Happy meal in a happy place.

O, Canada!!!

June 6th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Motoring though Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Maine. Destination: Clipper Shipp Motel in Pokolagan, New Brunswick. The motel is a throwback to the 1950’s with spacious suites filled with comfy overstuffed furniture. Efficient Wi-Fi. Giant TV screen. And, beautiful views of the Bay of Fundy with its unusual tides. Toby, The Wonder Dog, enjoyed his stroll on the beach with BSK. A harbinger of PEI. Icy vodka in hand, HG perched on a viewing platform and basked in the scenery and the luxury of being in a democracy with a humane leader, universal health care and a welcoming attitude towards a diverse set of immigrants. Dined on the left-over sandwiches from The Italian Corner in East Providence augmented by prosciutto. Drank Montepluciano d’ Abruzesse (purchased just over the Canadian border). HG had always been beguiled by the fact that the late Virgil Thompson, eminent composer and music critic (who lived in the Hotel Chelsea on Manhattan’s West 23rd), often dined in a nearby Popeye’s fried chicken establishment. So, midway on the trip to Canada, HG ate some Popeye’s product. Fried fish and macaroni and cheese. The mac and cheese was mushy but comforting. The fish was spicy and crisp. (BSK thought it too heavily breaded). Next time, HG will try the chicken and red beans & rice.

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Last meal in Rhode Island before setting off to Prince Edward Island. And, the finale was festive, full of culinary fireworks. The venue was http://hungrygerald.com/best-apps-to-hookup/ in the historic town of Bristol. They do a “buck a shuck” oyster night on Tuesday. Decided to do a reprise of the oyster feast HG/BSK (and Lesley R.) enjoyed during our Christmas season visit. Of course, this time HG overdid. Three dozen oysters, chilled, briny, nicely shucked. All from Rhode Island waters: Moonstones, Quonrie Rocks, Point Judith Salts and Aquidnacks. Then, on to a ceviche of fresh raw scallops with crispy potato chips, cucumber, lime, cilantro and ginger. Steamed “Drunken” little neck clams in a mind-blowing sauce of beer, onions, garlic (grilled bread to soak up the deliciousness). Cajun tuna (cooked rare) with potato crisps, parsnip chips, spicy New Orleans mayo and chimichurri cream. Mussels in a garlic and wine broth topped with salt and vinegar potato sticks gilded with a red pepper coulis. Fried oysters in a cornmeal crust with pickled red onions, lime and cilantro. Cajun pork belly confit on a bed of parsnip puree with an array of house made pickles. Fresh local green salad with goat cheese, parsnip chips and marinated vegetables. (Hey, don’t characterize us as gluttons. These are all modest small plate portions). To drink: Sancerre for BSK and Brilliant/Beautiful granddaughter Arianna R. Black and Tan (Guinness and IPA ale) for HG. Happy heads and tummies. Off to bed to get an early start on Canadian motoring.

The Italian Corner

June 4th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

This deli-bakery-grocery-sandwich shop (and restaurant on Saturday night) is an East Providence landmark. The Italian Corner features the best of everything Italian. Many varieties of prosciutto, porchetta, salume. Encyclopedic array of cheeses. Ravioli. Tortellini. Fresh house-made pasta plus the best of Italian dried pasta. Olive oil, vinegar, jarred condiments. Cookies, cakes, bread, etc. Huge list of sandwiches plus two soups, minestrone and tortellini in chicken broth. Everything can be consumed on the premises or brought home. For lunch, HG ordered a capicola, provolone and pepper sandwich. Plus a “cup” of minestrone. BSK chose a mozzarella and pepper. We specified the size of the sandwiches as “small”. Well, we got huge sandwiches. We presumed the “large” size consumed an entire baguette. The minestrone was almost a quart of goodness. Packed with fresh vegetable, beans and ditalini shape pasta. No room for the sandwich after the soup. BSK finished half of her sandwich. It was packed and put in the cooler for road dinner in Canada. BSK purchased olive oil, vinegar, amaretti cookie and other things for PEI consumption. Must get back to The Italian Corner for their Saturday night dinner. On the menu is octopus salad, linguine con vongole, zuppa of clams and mussels, zuppa de pesce. Plus rabbit, veal and chicken dishes. Due to a visit by Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives, The Italian Corner is celebrated. Deservedly so.

Chong Qing House Lives

June 3rd, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

HG was devastated to learn that Chong Qing, the Chinese restaurant in Seekonk, MA. (just over the Rhode Island border and short drive from the R. home) had closed. Owner said there were not enough Chinese in the area to support his very authentic cuisine. Eating there was a culinary highlight on stopovers in Rhode Island to and from Prince Edward Island. Big smiles yesterday when HG learned the restaurant, now called Chong Qing House, had reopened on Wickenden Avenue in Providence. HG called the owner and learned his cuisine had remained intact in the new location. Plenty of dishes featuring innards beloved by the Chinese. And, of course, frogs. HG’s favorites have remained intact — that was the assurance given by the owner. Salt and pepper shrimp. Eggplant with garlic. Fried string beans. Fiery Ma Po tofu. Cumin lamb. Szechuan wontons in chile oil. Black pepper chicken. Sliced fish and sour cabbage soup. Beer duck and tofu in hot pot. Shredded pork belly with smoked bean curd. The menu covers all the bases. HG suffers from Chinese food deprivation. BSK does not share HG’s obsession. When the duo lived in New York, HG always wanted to dine in Chinatown. BSK would be pleased to try other ethnic cuisines. In any case, when HG returns from PEI in the fall, HG is confident that BSK and the R. family will join HG in the Chong Qing pleasures.

Blount Fine Foods

June 1st, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

This company is a Rhode Island star. State-wide polls reveal it to be one of the best places to work in Rhody. Very innovative. Not small. About 400 employees and 365 million in annual revenues. Blount sells a staggering variety of soups. Many versions of clam chowder (Rhode Island clear is the best). Everything is organic. There are all the standards (tomato, vegetable, pea) and some surprises like varieties of Vietnamese pho, an HG favorite. Blount soups can be found in many eastern United States groceries. Hey, Noo Yawkers and Brooklyn hipsters, you can find Blount at Fairway including SJ’s favored Red Hook location. The company also operates, on a seasonal basis, two “clam shacks”–one in Riverside, RI and the other in nearby Warren. They are very busy. Rightfully so, because the food they serve is way above standard roadside clam shack fare. Last night, BSK picked up a load of good things that were consumed on the scenic deck of the R. home. Watching boats glide by on Narragansett Bay, HG/BSK and Arianna R. dined on big, lush lobster rolls, fried cod sandwiches with sauce tartare, stuffies (clams stuffed with bits of chorizo nestled in a cornmeal mix), onion rings, French fries, cole slaw (among the best ever), pickles. Drank icy cold French rose’ and an Italian white. Dessert was Talenti Sea Salt Caramel gelato. Hey, Blount, send some of your good things to Whole Foods and Kaune’s in Santa Fe.

O Dinis

May 30th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Rhode Island is one of the great culinary destinations. Eccentric and tasty. HG has written about New York Specials (hot dogs drenched in an odd chili-tomato sauce); Dell’s icy lemonade, stuffies, calamari with hot peppers, clam bakes, grilled pizza, etc. A new discovery for HG yesterday was O Dindis. This is a plain spoken, authentic, family oriented Portuguese restaurant. Famished HG/BSK arrived in Providence ready for a hearty dinner. And, that was what O Dinis provided. First, a bottle of chilled Vinho Verde. Then, appetizers of little neck clams in a white wine and garlic sauce plus shrimps in a tomato based garlic sauce (with just a touch of heat). Thankfully, there was a platter of Portuguese bread to soak up the lush sauces. BSK and Arianna R. shared a giant serving of the house specialty: Clams and pork Alentajana. This is a stew of pork tenderloin and potatoes topped with steamed little necks in a pungent sauce.(Rhody clams are the best). HG ate a king-sized slab of nicely grilled red snapper with boiled potatoes. These potatoes were not mundane. Perfectly cooked and when slathered with the two sauces, onion and garlic, were heavenly. Drank a very good Portuguese cabernet (Portuguese reds have been underrated). Dessert was splendid flan. HG wants to go back to O Dinis with a crowd so the greedy boy can taste many things on the menu: Cod in a dozen varieties; bife a case (steak topped with a fried egg accompanied by rice, onion/garlic sauce, fried sliced potatoes); seafood stew (a Portuguese version of Mariscada); etc. And, the prices are very modest.

Reba & Pancho’s

May 29th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Last stop before Providence (and reunion with brilliant and beautiful granddaughter Arianna R.) was Lewisburg, Pa. A bit of irony. Lewisburg is the home of Bucknell University, the alma mater of (sadly) the late Philip Roth. Since, realistically, HG’s years are dwindling down to a precious few, as the song puts it, HG recalls Roth’s brilliant short novel, “Everyman”, based on the eventual fate of all humans. But, all gloomy thoughts were banished as HG dined at Lewisburg’s Reba & Pancho’s restaurant. It would not be surprising to find a restaurant like R & P’s in Paris, New York or any other big time culinary center. However, Lewisburg? Simply put, this is a great restaurant in every detail. Interior design. Service. Food. Wine. Ambience. HG/BSK started their meal by nibbling on a freebie of toast crisps, roasted almonds and extra virgin olive oil. Glasses of chilled Italian Soave. Appetizer of perfect slim pomme frites enlivened with a melange of fried herbs and a tangy aioli. Main dishes were mind blowing. BSK had a juicy pork chop on a bed of herbaceous and creamy polenta. HG had a giant crab cake (sorry, Baltimore, this was the best crab cake HG ever consumed). This crisp wonder was loaded with lush chunks of crab bound together by a minimal filling The sauce of a puree of poblano and other peppers complemented the sweet crab meat perfectly but did not overwhelm it. HG/BSK drank a favorite Italian wine, Montepulciano d’Abruzesse The Paris bistro overtones continued with two nicely executed desserts, classic creme brûlée and chocolate mousse. Yes, no need to fly to Paris for a perfectly executed meal. Just get on the road to Lewisburg.

On The Road Again

May 28th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

BSK (the best long distance driver) is at the wheel and Toby, The Wonder Dog (the best canine traveler) is snuggling on HG’s lap. Off to the democracy to the north, Canada, and the HG/BSK oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island. First stop is Amarillo, Texas, home of Tyler’s Barbecue. Yes, Tyler’s is what Texas ‘cue is all about. HG/BSK devoured big platters of pulled pork, brisket, beans and cole slaw. Tangy Tyler’s sauce. Condiments were pickles, chopped onions and jalapeños. Big glasses of icy pink lemonade. Carnivore heaven. Drove through a hundred miles of Texas and Oklahoma wind farms. Mused about the mid-American psyche as billboards lauded the virtues of Jesus Christ and the enticements of “Gentlemen’s Clubs” and sex toy emporiums. HG swam in the La Quinta pool (Oklahoma City) and BSK did floor exercises and stretches. Too full of bar-b-q to contemplate dinner. Yes, barbecue and highway chain motels are two of the things America does best.