HUNGRY GERALD

Gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, the eminent Profesore/author Massimo R., came to the  HG/BSK Central Falls, RI, loft this weekend for a jolly family dinner. Lesley and Massimo brought a lavish amount of Vietnamese food with them. There was pho, congee, salads, pork belly buns and more–much more. The group ate a lot and drank a reasonable amount of wine and beer. Since there was an abundance there were leftovers. Fortunate HG had a big bowl of steaming leftover congee and tofu for lunch today. Very comforting and tongue tingling with a splash of hot sauce. Leftover pho (with plenty of rice noodles) for HG lunch tomorrow. The good times roll on.

Lucky, lucky HG/BSK. Glenn is our upstairs neighbor and a fabulous cook. He cooks in abundance–with great skill and a reliance on fresh ingredients. He is very generous. Each night he has been gifting HG/BSK with a lush container of chicken and broccoli soup/stew. Last night he outdid himself–a bowl of pulled pork. Brilliant barbecue flavors. Yum. Thanks, Glenn.

Jewish kashrut laws forbid mixing dairy products with meat. So, “fleisich” (meat) restaurants are the hearty opposite to “Dairy Restaurants”. These meat oriented (some kosher and some not) spots serve steaks, brisket, chopped liver, broiled calf’s liver, chicken in the pot, sweetbreads, brains, duck, turkey, etc. There are plenty of kosher meat restaurants in New York but HG finds them pedestrian and lacking the verve of their predecessors. Sammy’s Roumanian, the schmaltz and vodka temple of Jewish drunkenness, garlic, noise and music still exists—original location closed and now it’s on Stanton Street (Lower East Side). It isn’t cheap to get drunk at Sammy’s—ice enclosed vodka costs $169-$150 a bottle. Many, many decades ago, HG and beloved late father, Harry Freeman, ate at cheap hole in the wall “Roumanian Broilings” eateries. These served garlic and schmaltz drenched “karnatzlach” (cigar shaped hamburgers), chopped liver, beer and whiskey. (Favorite hangouts of Italian mobsters). Best white tablecloth restaurants were Moskowiz and Lupowitz on the Lower East side, Lou G. Siegel in the Garment Center and Gluckstern’s on W. 46th Street (all but Sammy’s are long closed.) All of these restaurants encouraged alcohol overindulgence. Nothing better than an appetizer of cold garlic and schmaltz brains with Jack Daniels and a beer chaser. Vishniac and strong Russian tea at the end of the meal.

“Dairy Restaurants” were once abundant in New York—and HG enjoyed them. They were kosher–no meat. Specialties included kasha varnishkes, blintzes, pierogies, kreplach (stuffed with cheese); gefilte fish, soups (ice cold summer beet borscht and schav). Schav was sorrel soup and both soups were accompanied by boiled potatoes and sour cream. Almost every dish was enhanced by sour cream (“smetana”). Breads were fabulous–onion rolls (“pletzels”); bagels, bialys, sliced pumpernickel and Jewish rye bread. There was lots of cream cheese, pot cheese, cottage cheese, farmer cheese and, sometimes, roquefort. The two best “Dairys” were Ratner’s and Rappaport’s on the lower east side. The upper west side had the “Famous” on W.72nd (superior gefilte fish). Steinberg’s on the west side catered to classy customers. Sadly, all of these restaurants have vanished. One splendid dairy remains; B & H Dairy at 127 2nd Ave.(Yes, there are eateries called “Dairy” but they are not traditional–they serve pizzas, Mexican food, Italian food, etc.). B & H is the real deal–fabulous soups and challah. An innovation–a healthy and tasty vegetarian chili. There’s a very good book–“The Dairy Restaurant” by Ben Katchor. Informative and funny.

That’s what the late, great Jewish/German poet and writer said a century ago after eating a plate of “holishkes”  (sweet and sour stuffed cabbage) at a Viennese Jewish restaurant. HG’s late Mom, Ida Kopkind Freeman, made the world’s best stuffed cabbage. HG often had a one half portion as an appetizer before chomping away at a huge pastrami sandwich (Russian dressing and coleslaw) at the long closed Gitlitz Delicatessen on Broadway and 71st. St. in Manhattan. Yesteryear, there were scores of traditional Jewish delis in Manhattan—now only three remain—2nd Ave. Deli; Sarge’s and Katz’s. “Appetizing stores” have also faded away but there are some magnificent survivors—Russ & Daughters; Zabar’s, Barney Greengrass and Murray’s. Yes, there’s hope. Though a confirmed atheist and humanist, HG can still smile at Heine’s  witty and cynical comment—and relish traditional Jewish delicacies. In future posts, HG will discuss  yesteryear’s “meat” and “dairy”: (two separate categories) eateries.

HG was busy at lunch today in HG/BSK’s spacious (3,200 sq. ft.) Central Falls, RI, loft.  There was a lot of catching up –mail delivered here while family was at the Prince Edward Island oceanfront home; unread magazines, bills, etc. HG was absorbed in breaking news in The New York Times —plus obits, opinions, columns,essays, etc. Has American democracy become Fascist? Despite gloomy thoughts, HG had a convenient lunch of Virginia Diner Tailgate Trail Mix–ingredients included sesame batons plus plenty of nuts–almonds, cashews, peanuts, pumpkin seeds. HG augmented this mix with Planter’s cashews and washed it all down with a tall glass of one half orange juice and one half ice water .

Yes, HG/BSK are back in HG/BSK’s spacious, sunny. beautifully, decorated  (by BSK)) loft in the small city (contiguous to Providence) of Central Falls. Lots of dazzling BSK art (paintings and pottery) to gaze at. No ground chicken at the supermarket so BSK substituted ground turkey for BSK’s lush chicken ball/spinach/quinoa dish. Chunkier than chicken but very tasty. Toby, The Wonder Dog., was absent. The aging fellow will be at the Riva Riverside home with Riva pet, the gentle and intelligent Pip. More convenient. There will be weekly reunions with the mature doggies.

When HG lived in New York and New Jersey (yesteryear), men’s bathrooms (in hotels and restaurants) were staffed with courtly and helpful attendants (presume women’s bathrooms had female attendants). The Algonquin Hotel had a very distinguished attendant (HG presumes he was an aristocrat having difficult days). The Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel also had a regal attendant. Once, HG used a sanitary facility next to actor Cary Grant. HG noticed that Grant tipped the attendant five dollars (lavish). HG was content tipping one dollar. HG’s favorite men’s room was at the long demolished Polo Grounds in Manhattan (baseball and football Giants played there–the football Giants later moved to Yankee Stadium in The Bronx). The men’s room was staffed by an old Black man. He would chant “No matter if you shake or dance, the last drop will always fall in your. pants”. Before you left he would declaim: “If you had your little pee, don’t forget to remember me–old Sam.”  He was always tipped –sometimes as much as ten bucks.                                            

 Every BSC supper is a yummy delight. Last night, there was a fabulous bowl of orzo, zucchini,   bacon and chicken broth (much parmesan); this was followed by a ragout of Italian sausage, peppers and vegetables. Wonderful food. Joyous eating on  nights at  Riva/Freeman oceanfront home on serene Prince Edward Island and at HG/BSK’s spacious loft in Central Falls, .RI.                 ,

Yes, these are the best chili peppers and essential for BSK’s delicious and warming pork green chili stew. These peppers have some heat but are not mouth numbing. BSK is so fond of these peppers that BSK bought pounds at the Santa Fe Food Market, froze them.and they went off to Rhode Island  and Prince Edward Island. Cold night at PEI. BSK beat the chills with BSK’s incomparable green chili comfort dish. Thanks, Big Jim (and BSK).