HUNGRY GERALD

HG often has written about HG’s affection for chowder (“Chowda” as it’s pronounced in New England and  Prince Edward Island–the site of the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home). HG’s favorite chowder is the Rhode Island version—clear, briny and no flour or cream and minimal potatoes. BSK’s corn chowder, served for “supper” last night, is a different species–a main dish and not a soup. It is thick, lusty, filling and comforting. It is composed of abundant in-season sweet corn kernels, broth, milk, onions, garlic, parsley, chopped fennel, Aleppo pepper and pimenton. BSK adds sea scallops for a taste of the sea. There were some leftover corn kernels so son Jeremy made spectacular corn fritters and maple syrup for breakfast. Sweet corn is a kiss from Mother Earth. 

BSK was a pesto pioneer. BSK made this savory sauce long before it became fashionable (it’s now in every supermarket ). The origin is Genovese and BSK always balanced the classic components accurately: olive oil, garlic, pignolia nuts, Parmesan and basil. Some yesteryear dinner guests expressed concern: “Green spaghetti?”  BSK often makes a creative varieties of the classic pesto sauce on Prince Edward Island ( the site of the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home). Last night BSK used garlic scapes, walnuts, parsley, olive oil, spinach, Parmesan, salt and pepper. The lusty sauce was mixed with linguini, yellow beans, potatoes and cherry tomatoes —a happy “supper” (dinner on PEI). Locavore eating at the end of a warm and sunny day.

When HG was a senior at CCNY (1950), HG was one of a select group that acted as counselors and basketball coaches for violent (“bopping”) youth gangs in Harlem. HG’s mission was to show young Black men that there were constructive paths to follow –education for one–rather than wounding or killing rival gang members in “turf” battles. Another part of HG’s mission was to channel youthful energies into athletics–namely basketball– where  HG’s coaching was augmented by participation of CCNY basketball star Sonny Jameson (HG encountered Sonny again in New York –1963–he had become a high school principal). So, in 1950 HG spent much time in Harlem where HG enjoyed neighborhood food. The principal treat was pan fried chicken sided by mac and cheese and collard greens. (Smothered pork chops were another yummy one). During HG/BSK’s 61 years of marriage, talented cook BSK has prepared a vast number of chicken dishes–preferring healthier chicken over meat. But, no fried chicken. So, it was a very special occasion last night at HG/BSK/RIVA’s Prince Edward Island’s oceanfront home. Son Jeremy prepared a true Harlem “down home” meal of fried chicken, stewed beet greens, mashed potatoes and corn on the cob. Fabulous eating. The greaseless chicken had a crisp, spicy crust and juicy interior–better than the Harlem fried yardbirds HG ate many decades ago. (Don’t know if Jeremy and wife, Maiko Sakamoto, will put them on the menu of Freeman Shokudo, the Tokyo izakaya they own and run). Jeremy has done much cooking during his (and family) vacation/reunion on PEI. Much to everyone’s pleasure, Jeremy is a culinary talent. HG is sad that distance prevents HG from eating Freeman Shokudo’s  (better than NYC Katz’s) superlative pastrami.

Had a pleasant supper (that’s what they call dinner on Prince Edward Island where family life is enjoyed at the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home). Son Jeremy made a lusty and lush tomato-based seafood stew It was savory and satisfying with juicy shrimp, potatoes, chunks of hake, tomatoes, sweet corn kernels; onions, garlic and an abundance of herbs and spices. SJ made a rouille sauce with roast red peppers, mayonnaise, and spices to add to the stew (HG would have been happy to eat a gallon of the stew and added sauce) The second part of the meal was a classic:  Slices of roasted yellow beets topped with goat cheese, walnuts and BSK’s vinaigrette. Sumptuous—and refreshing. The happy group drank a lot of white wine and red Pinot Noir. Life’s good.

HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, the eminent New York restaurateur (Shuka, Shukette, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s), left Prince Edward Island this morning afer a happy but too brief reunion with HG/BSK and the Tokyo and Rhode Island family groups. She will be much missed. The farewell dinner (“supper” on PEI) was festive. HG, son Jeremy and other family members drove to Atlantic Shellfish in the Town of Morell. The attractive proprietor, Cindy Dockendorff, awaited with a bag of three dozen oysters (HG had called in advance). Lots of affectionate greetings. Supper began with the oysters expertly shucked. It was an interval of briny delight at HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home. Main dish was spaghetti with a sweet corn and smoked scallop sauce–a yummy invention cooked by HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R. Outstanding. Goodbye, Vicki–see you in New York. (Oops! all of Vicki”s Saturday flights were canceled. Spent the night at a Charlottetown hotel and successfully flew to New York on a 6AM–Sunday Aug. 11–flight).

Dinner is called “supper” on Prince Edward Island (where life is enjoyed at the HG/BSK/RIVA oceanfront home), Tonight’s supper was splendid–much enhanced by the pates, smoked mackerel & scallops and cheeses that gifted daughter Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo R., brought back from their recent trip to the francophone Magdalen Islands. The meal began with delicious appetizers (HG was enthralled by the pork pates). This was followed by BSK’s poached halibut in avgolemono soup with rice–lush dish.  MI cheeses (the goat cheese is a treasure) accompanied a big green salad.  Supper finale of buttered and salt sprinkled ears of sweet corn.  Sweet things and ice cream for dessert. Yes, a splendid supper.

Garrison Keiller wrote that sweet corn is better than sex. HG, speaking from the vantage point of 61 years of happy marriage, must disagree. However, sweet corn is a blessing and eagerly awaited by HG/BSK. On Prince Edward Island (that’s where the HG/BSK/RIVA families have their oceanfront home), sweet corn arrives in early to mid August. Yes, it’s enjoyed much earlier in the United States. This morning BSK joined a long line in the Town of Montague to buy three dozen ears from the Keddy’s Farm truck (best corn on the Island). Dinner tonight started with sea scallop ceviche and a green bean salad. Main dish was sauteed haddock topped with garlic chips. All was tasty but the unquestioned star of the night was the abundance of buttered sweet corn. There were nine at the table–HG/BSK and their daughter, Lesley R. plus her husband, Massimo R; Son Jeremy and his Tokyo family, wife Maiko Sakamoto, their son, Haru and daughter Teru, plus Maiko’s Mom; HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, the New York restaurateur. Everyone ate at least two ears and some folks enjoyed three. There will be much corn in the immediate future–corn fritters, corn chowder, buckwheat pancakes speckled with corn kernels (pass the Canadian maple syrup). Heavenly fressing.

HG’s wonderful daughter, Victoria Freeman, has arrived. Usually, her annual trip for a family reunion at HG/BSK/RIVA’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home has been marred by mishaps–cancelled flights, inconvenient landings, etc.–a short flight would turn into an epic of delay and hours long tedium. Not this time. Everything went smoothly and a smiling Vicki made a grand entrance–beautiful as usual. Earlier in the day, Exquisite Maiko visited Naufrage Harbor in search of fresh mackerel; while there was no mackerel to be found, a boat returned with a freshly caught 300 pound tuna. After butchering the large fish, the kind fishermen gifted Maiko the head of the beast. She spent the day laboriously cutting apart the head, delivering up a large amount of delicious tuna. For dinner, EM served seared tuna with ponzu sauce and clams steamed in sake. This was served alongside sautéed vegetables and tahina-beet salad. There was a big salad of local greens and a cheese platter. Cheeses came from daughter, Lesley R. and husband, Massimo R.’s six hour ferry trip to the Magdalen Islands (strictly francophone,only French is spoken–no English –all signage is in French–lucky that Massimo has some fluency in French). Magdalen Islands produces spectacular goat cheese and other yummy cheese delights –tohght’s cheese platter was a gourmand treat.. HG/BSK will have to visit these Islands. HG has a vision of baguettes, sweet butter, cheeses, red wine–seated comfortably and with a good appetite gazing at miles of blue water and sandy beaches. These are French islands, part of Quebec and an exemplar of the French talent for cheese and pleasure.

Pleasantly cool and sunny day on Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK; son Jeremy; grandson Haru and granddaughter Teru; gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Massimo R., gathered around the dining table in HG/BSK/RIVA’s oceanfront home. The group awaited a superlative Japanese meal (HG had hoped for it but it would have been unmannerly to request it). The meal was in the talented hands of Jeremy’s wife and business partner, exquisite Maiko and Maiko’s Mom (Mom was the chef and Maiko was the sous chef.) On the dining table was a platter containing artfully mounded portions of cool soba noodles (They went into bowls of cold, dashi broth and accompanied the astounding array of tempura). Maiko and Mom stayed in the kitchen, frying morsels and serving them hot after seconds of cooking. Almost dazed with culinary pleasure, the table mates ate and ate while Maiko and Mom did their tempura magic. First came slices of vegetables (Asparagus, peppers, zucchini, etc.–there were also “piquillos al padron”, the small peppers that are usually pan fried with garlic. HG ate a mildly picante piquillo with pleasure). Then came seafood tempura–shrimp, haddock and scallops. Maiko and Mom never sat down and the group was concerned that they did not eat—not to worry, said Maiko, they ate the best bites. Everyone applauded the masterful cooks–many bows–all grateful for the masterpiece meal.

HG ate a pork chop tonight. For almost two years HG has been unable to eat chops, steaks and other meat delights (exceptions were ground meat and long simmered stews). The problem was HG’s increasing inability to swallow becase of throat constriction (unpleasant side effect of throat cancer surgery in 1992). Son Jeremy is an outstanding cook–and at Handsome Haru’s request–SJ fried thin (brined) pork chops in a winey sauce to delicious tenderness. It took some vigorous chewing, but HG  relished a large chop. And, the accompaniments were wonderful–basmati rice topped with black beans and bracing vinegar peppers. HG recalled that HG first tasted the pork chop and vinegar peppers combo decades ago at Delsomma, a New York Italian restaurant–loved it. BSK makes excellent vinegar peppers and there’s usually a jar in the fridge. Lucky HG.