HUNGRY GERALD

This is a post HG never wanted to write. Stevie died of cancer a few days ago. The world’s wittiest woman, she was HG/BSK’s pal for more than a half century. Memories galore of mirth filled experiences (and meals) in Fire Island, New York, Colorado, New Mexico. She was unique, irreplaceable. A true New Yorker. Talented as a big time advertising copywriter and glorious in her authorship of books, magazine and newspaper articles, television appearances. “The Brisket Book” was her last book and if you love life and food you must own it. The loss of Stevie leaves a hole in HG/BSK’s hearts and lives. Stevie’s object in life was to bring joy and laughter to every occasion. And, she succeeded. (HG has often written about HG’s beloved friend. Check hungrygerald.com archive: Pierson vs.Lebowitz 11/23/2010, More Joy 12/2/2019. Holiday Reunion 12/1/2019).

Hard to believe. HG was 92 on Nov. 9. Many affectionate emails and phone calls from family and friends (plus some much appreciated generous gifts). Let’s face it. 92 isn’t aging or mature. 92 is old. However, HG has enough unimpaired faculties to enjoy life, swimming, the delights of Prince Edward Island and New Mexico. So, after 20 laps in HG/BSK’s heated indoor pool, it was off to birthday dinner at Compound Restaurant in Santa Fe. Forget the food and wine for a moment. The star of the evening was BSK. The woman was the epitome of chic, style and beauty. Ageless. During 20 months in PEI and homecoming to New Mexico, HG has only seen BSK in sweatpants and other very casual attire. No makeup. For HG birthday, BSK did full “dress up.” The color was black. Round neck silk blouse in a black and white abstraction. Kenzo jacket and pants. All bought in Paris 25 years ago. Still the height of style. Attire fit forever svelte BSK perfectly. Yes, HG is 92 and after 58 years of marriage HG remains in love with a wondrous, creative woman. Dinner was upscale. Shared sensational tuna tartare which was finely chopped, topped with black caviar and accompanied by walnut toast, savory mayonnaise and wasabi sauce. Mains were seared greens and wild mushrooms over polenta (a BSK favorite). For HG, a huge dish of two (sizeable) striped bass filets accompanied by cockles in a spicy tomato sauce. These good things rested on a layer of spaghetti squash enriched by tomatoes, peppers, onions, mushroom slivers in a briny sauce with hints of garlic. For dessert, HG had an “Opera” cake. Chocolate mousse enrobed in thick chocolate sauce. There was a bit of ganache and a layer of butterscotch and bittersweet chocolate sauces. Well, if this was an “Opera”, it was a duet sung by Placido Domingo and Joan Sutherland. The food was sumptuous and the Prosecco and Provencal Rose’ accented it but all the feasting was overshadowed by BSK’s dazzling presence.

After an exhausting motor trip HG/BSK are back in their magical New Mexico compound. HG quickly went to the pool house and swam an invigorating 20 laps. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was happy sniffing and exploring. No ocean views, of course, but the vistas of autumn gold leaves are visual magic. Emphasis on fish cuisine continues. Yes, you can get good (if pricey) fish at Whole Foods in Santa Fe. BSK scored some Petrale sole, steamed it over a bed of spinach, ginger and garlic. The liquid was clam broth. HG insisted on buying salmon at Trader Joe’s. BSK was dubious. Rightfully so. The salmon was terrible (Toby has been enjoying it for dinner.). A lesson for HG. Let BSK shop and don’t argue.

Yes, it was an exhausting automobile trip from Rhode Island to Santa Fe. Four days of driving (for BSK) and three nights at overpriced motels/hotels. BSK doesn’t trust HG at the wheel so relentless BSK drives on, pausing ony for gas and bathroom stops. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is the best traveler, a quiet friendly, cuddly presence. Previously, HG enjoyed swimming in hotel indoor pools (and lounging in hot tubs). However, Covid has made it too risky for the old fellow. HG/BSK dined in their hotel rooms on good stuff BSK picked up at Italian shops in Providence. Tortellini in brodo. Bluefish pate (superlative)/ Octopus salad. Snail salad. Roasted peppers. Truffle cheese. Crusty bread. Middle Eastern meat pies from Fall River, MA. Much good red wine. Excellent menu. The trip (despite the food and wine) was too tiring (even for expert long distance driver BSK). Next time it will be Southwest Airlines for HG/BSK.

Thoughtful, brilliant daughter Lesley R. and her equally brilliant husband, Massimo R., make generous efforts to provide HG/BSK with culinary pleasures when they make a stop over in Rhode Island before moving on to their New Mexico home. They concentrate on feasts unobtainable in the Santa Fe area even though “The City Different” has many outstanding restaurants (green chile rules). Thus, Leasley and Massim followed up their Chinese dinner with an Indian extravaganza. Takeout from a local Indian restaurant included saag paneer, eggplant, dal, lamb vindaloo and numerous varieties of naan and doass (accompanied by chutneys, mint sauces, raita, etc.). Can’t recall all of the dishes because HG was maddened by food lust). The next night was enlightened home cooking: Shrimp with grits and lightly baked fluke filets ( a la Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey). Sea pleasures. Are HG/BSK lucky? You betcha!!

“Green spaghetti? A-a-rgh!!”. That was the reaction of young SJ’s friend when confronted with a bowl of BSK’ s pesto with tagliatelle. This was when HG/BSK were living in Montclair, N.J. The children, SJ and Lesley were in school and BSK was a pesto pioneer. One of HG/BSK’s friends was the food editor at a major magazine. After a summer swim in HG/BSK’s pool, HG/BSK and the gracious female editor lunched outdoors beneath a wisteria shaded pergola. The menu was a starter of sliced, ripe New Jersey tomatoes (best in the universe) from BSK’s garden with fresh mozzarella churned that morning at Belgiovine’s Italian grocery on nearby Bloomfield Avenue. This was followed by pasta with pesto. The basil in the dish and the leaves decorating the mozzarella were also from the BSK garden. The drink was a rose’. Ice in the glass as is the custom in Provence. After a final sip of wine, the editor declared: “This is the best lunch I’ve ever had.” Would have loved to replicate this meal while in Prince Edward Island, but,alas, PEI tomatoes and mozzarella are not world class (the sweet corn is). Nonetheless, HG was treated to a bowl of BSK’s pesto with tiny potatoes from Ocean Mist Farm, local cherry tomatoes and yellow beans. The vegetables got a splash of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of Maldon salt flakes. No it wasn’t Joisey or Genoa (where pesto was born) but mineral rich potatoes are extraordinary and so are yellow beans. A big plus. HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home has magnificent sea views. Not too shabby.

HG/BSK’s thoughtful daughter, Lesley R., knows HG’s lust for Chinese food (real Chinese food, not Panda or P.F. Chang corn starch laden junk). No good Chinese restaurant in Santa Fe. Surprising in that gourmandizing city. So, when HG is visiting Lesley (and her brilliant husband, Massimo) in Rhode Island, Lesley makes sure HG has a Chinese extravaganza. There’s a good Chinese place in North Providence. Lesley picked up a feast there. Mapo Tofu (an HG fave); Szechuan sliced fish; garlic eggplant, dumplings (one order in chili oil and the other in a less assertive topping); pea tips; giant deep fried prawns (largest HG ever encountered). Oh, my!! HG heaven. Lots of steamed rice. Red wine. White wine. Dessert was a fabulous flan made by Lesley’s once-a-week housekeeper. Portuguese delight. HG is super lucky to have a Lesley daughter.

The two day trip from Prince Edward Island to daughter, Lesley R. anc son-in-law Massimo’s Rhode Island home, was the worst ever. Started well with colorful landscapes through PEI and New Brunswick. Then came heavy rains plus fog interludes. Finally arrived at the Senator Hotel in Augusta, Maine. Rude treatment at check in. Dirty room. Extra charge of $30 for Toby, The Wonder Dog (at alleged “pet friendly” hotel). Cloud 9 restaurant closed for “private event” (restaurant is top reason to stay at Senator). And, the cost of one night stay was expensive. Never again. Ate at Five Guys fast food. Good burger but too noisy, crowded and tumultuous. Second day of the trip started nicely. Clear, sunny weather. But, roads were jammed and became impossible once in the Boston area. Despite the “big dig”, super congestion remains. Short trip seemed endless (Yes, there was a Patriots game in Foxboro, Mass.). Arrived in Riverside, R.I. HG,BSK were tired and grumpy. Wonderful Lesley did magical restorations. Bowls of steaming pasta e fagioli soup, Later, dinner was swordfish in a tomato based sauce over linguini. Viva, Lesley and Italia!!!

Before dinner, HG enjoys freshly shucked Prince Edward Island oysters (Malpeques and Red Heads). Briny treats. White wine. Sea views from HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. Yes, PEI life has many culinary pleasures. However, when oysters are not available, HG likes a buttered radish with sea salt and white wine. This was Julia Child’s favorite nibble. She often remarked that there are few things better than a fresh radish. The excellent author and restaurant critic, Alec Lobrano, first met Julia Child at the Chez Georges bistro in Paris. She was eating a buttered radish, of course. Lobrano joined her in drinking white wine. With others, they had an epic meal of traditional French dishes. Though prices have become lofty, Chez Georges remains HG’s favorite Paris bistro. Love to start a meal there with their north sea delight of pickled herring with onions and slices of potato.

Philip Johnson had a long life (1896-2005) and a distinguished 75-year career as an American modernist architect and architectural influence. His residence in New Canaan, Conn., “The Glass House” is a National Trust Historic Site. Built on 49 acres of greenery, there are a number of other structures including an art gallery, a sculpture gallery, a library, etc. Frank Lloyd Wright visited the glass house and remarked: “Am I inside or outside?”. His career was flawed by a 1934-40 interval when he praised fascism and made anti-semitic statements. He later disavowed this and was forgiven by many (but not HG). Another flaw, much more minor, was his belief that ocean views were “boring.” HG, surrounded by ocean views in HG/BSK’s oceanfront Prince Edward Island home, finds these vistas exciting and ever changing. Sea is calm but quickly changes into rough waters with spectacular rolling waves. The whitecaps are beautiful in both sunny and grey weather. Clouds (cumulus, mackerel, etc.) are reflected in the sea. Birds (gulls, cormorants, osprey,eagles, starlings) soar above. Sunsets turn the shores and horizon into blazes of color. Johnson’s beliefs about ocean views were possibly based on the architect’s desire to control the environment. Yes, you can control New England acreage but you can’t control the seas. Johnson’s personal appearance was dramatized by large, round black framed eyeglasses. HG found a source for these reading glasses and wears them. Fittingly, they are called “Architect” glasses.