HUNGRY GERALD

It was Thanksgiving Day dinner for two —HG and BSK. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was a frisky and loving companion. HG/BSK’s initial plan was to substitute a Bell & Evans spatchcocked chicken for a turkey and serve it with the usual Gobbler Day accompaniments—-  cranberry sauce, stuffing, mashed potatoes, Brussels sprouts and lots of gravy. Alas, Market Basket was sold out of those wonderful birds and BSK wouldn’t settle for a lesser chicken. So, BSK substituted duck for two meals—modestly priced Bell & Evans duck legs for one meal and expensive duck breasts from another provider for the other. BSK followed a Nigella Lawson recipe (with some tweaks) for the duck legs Nigella calls the dish “Roast Duck Legs With Potatoes”. When sizzled on the range in an oven proof pan, the legs release lots of yummy duck fat. BSK cut potatoes into cubes and added thyme and some other spices plus salt and pepper. When the duck legs and potatoes were modestly browned BSK put  the pan in a 350 degree fahrenheit oven and roasted the duck for two hours (or a bit less). Roasting in duck fat produces  crisp skinned and juicy legs  and potatoes that, in Nigella’s phrase, “are crunchy on the outside and divinely soaked with duck fat on the inside.”  BSK served this with charred brussel sprouts. This was the best Thanksgiving Day dinner HG ever had in HG’s multi years of fressing. Turkey? Fuhgeddaboudit!!!!! On the next night, BSK seared the duck breasts in a cast iron pans. HG insisted they be cooked medium rare in the style of Chez Georges, the renowned Paris bistro. BSK served them with quinoa and a Japanese barbecue sauce. Good–but HG/BSK agreed–they needed more cooking. HG’s insistence often interferes with BSK’s culinary good sense and instincts. At both meals HG/BSK had many glasses of very good red wine. The last glasses were accompanied by Enstrom Butter Toffee and Brittle Brothers Peanut Brittle—the ultimate candies.

Orzo is one of HG’s favorite pasta shapes. The diminutive shapes cook quickly and are tasty, comforting and versatile. For breakfast, HG has orzo mixed with melted butter, cottage cheese, sea salt and ground black pepper (Better than any cereal—and when softly scrambled or poached eggs are added, the dish becomes celestial). At lunch, HG delights in orzo drenched in garlic fried in good olive oil–an alternative is orzo with butter and parmesan or pecorino. Last night, BSK tamed the cold weather with an orzo supper that was pure comfort. BSK cooked tomatoes, zucchini, onions, garlic, frozen corn kernels, basil, mozzarella and peppers in olive oil. BSK added chicken broth to this melange plus feta cheese and a dash of balsamic vinegar— plus a half cup of tomato paste. Orzo was added to the bubbling sauce/vegetable goodness. The orzo cooked in the mix, so it was a one pot meal (Less clean up work for BSK). The supper was so tasty that HG had two big bowls(Thought about a third but that would be overkill).

Yes, Toby, The Wonder Dog, is in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Joy. The frisky little fellow is getting many belly rubs and cuddles when he pauses bounding from room to room (It’s a 3,200 square foot space so Toby’s getting needed exercise). HG has missed Toby. He lives with daughter Lesley, husband Massimo and pet, Pip, in their Riverside, RI, home. Toby and Pip play together in the big backyard. And, they accompany HG/BSK when HG/BSK go  to HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home for the traditional late spring/ early autumn/summer stay. Toby is in Central Falls while Lesley and Massimo spend Thanksgiving holiday with their daughter, Arianna, and her companion, Adam, at their Colorado home. Ever greedy Toby sits  on the floor next to HG gazing at HG with irresistible pleading eyes.He wants HG to drop morsels to him. BSK disapproves . HG and Toby fear BSK disapproval so Toby remains.unfed. Better for his health–like BSK, Toby remains svelte.

HG is fond of stuffed vegetables. Last night, BSK made a happy supper—fresh red peppers stuffed with ground pork,onions, garlic, spices, herbs all moistened by a rich stock. Super yummy. (BSK makes a similar lush dish using zucchini). HG’s introduction to tasty stuffies (No, not referring to stuffed Rhode Island clams) happened when HG was a toddler. HG wouldn’t eat spinach, a proven healthy vegetable. HG’s clever late Mom made balls of buttery mashed potatoes and stuffed them with the hated spinach. The little fellow ate them with a good appetite. At this time, HG loves every type of stuffed dumpling, Japanese gyoza and shumai, Chinese dim sum. Ravioli and pierogi are also favored. Best of all stuffed dishes was the stuffed cabbage cooked by HG’s late Mom. In Yiddish, they are called “holishkes.” They had a unique sweet and sour spicy flavor. They were loved by the HG family and relatives—cousins, aunts and uncles-. All would show up at Mom’s Bronx kitchen when Mom was making holishkes. When the great German/Jewish poet and writer, Heinrich Heine, ate  holishkes at a Vienna restaurant, he exclaimed: “What a noble religion we have!!!).

HG is 95. The old fellow has lived through radical cancer surgery, broken hip, (surgery) right leg spiral fracture (surgery). HG is still active and mobile (with the aid of walkers for indoor and outdoor use). No signs of dementia (yes, there’s some senior moment forgetfulness. Appetite for food and wine (moderate amount) remains robust. Yes, HG is enjoying life. It’s not the genes. Nobody in HG’s family has ever reached HG’s present age.  BSK takes care of HG, making every effort to keep him healthy and happy. BSK believes HG’s longevity owes much to nutrition. BSK prepares breakfasts, lunches and suppers that supply HG with energy—and, happily, are delicious. BSK is an excellent cook–creative and imaginative. BSK is also consistent. There are no mishaps. The dining table is a place of joy–proving that healthy food tastes good while carefully balancing proteins, carbs, fats, etc. BSK believes doctors know little about nutrition and don’t stress its importance to their patients. A frightening percentage of Americans are obese. Tragically, many Americans have never tasted fresh, unprocessed food. Poverty creates a  reliance on fast and junk food. Sad.

New York’s best and shortest (five foot-two) Mayor, Fiorello Laguardia, deftly steered New York City through the Great Depression, World War Two and the early post-war years. The “Little Flower” presented HG with an award for coming in second place in a city wide American history contest (second place was a big time honor as there were hundreds of entries). Laguardia delighted HG’s late Mom, by saying: “Gerald, you must have a wonderful mother who is responsible for your prize.” When there was a brief newspaper strike in 1945, Laguardia read the comics to young radio listeners (Station WNYC). The Mayor always noted that his favorite dish was “Pastafazoole” and he would relish a bowl after reading the comics. “Pastafazoole” is pasta e fagioli–a delicious  stew of  broth, onions, garlic, onions, tomato sauce, spices –plus cannellini beans and small shaped pasta. HG adds a pour of olive oil and hot sauce, before devouring this cold weather treat. BSK makes a tasty variant of this dish–broth, olive oil, garlic, spices, escarole and bacon. BSK purees the escarole (catering to HG’s constricted swallowing). HG had three bowls of this wondrous soup last night accompanied by an outstanding Spanish red wine. Happily, there was enough left over for some lunches.

HG never orders salmon dishes in United States restaurants. Almost always the fish is over done and tasteless. HG thought about this last night at supper while eating BSK’s sublime dish of silky, almost medium rare, baked salmon flanked by herbaceous small sweet potatoes. The key is BSK’s mastery of timing when preparing BSK’s many dishes.  Scrambled eggs, for example. HG never orders them in restaurants. They do not have the lush and creamy texture of BSK’s scrambles ( Scrambled egg cooking is a family affair–HG, son Jeremy and gifted daughter Lesley R. all cook excellent scrambled eggs). Fish dominates BSK’s cuisine and BSK does wonders with cod, hake, grey sole, haddock, etc. BSK heeds the counsel of the great seafood chef, Eric Ripert. who cautions against overcooking. BSK’s timing is the key. (HG loves simple dishes in Paris where salmon is always cooked perfectly. A good example is Salmon in Sorell Sauce at Le Stella brasserie in the 16th. As for omelets and scrambled eggs–if you want them soft and creamy order them “baveuse” –oozing).

Uni (oo-nee) is now carried at Fearless Fish, the remarkable seafood shop in Providence, RI. (A short drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft). Uni is a unique food from the sea. The Japanese use it on sushi  (Much enjoyed by HG).  So, what is Uni? It is the edible part of the sea urchin–possibly the sea urchin’s gonads. Uni has an unusual taste–velvety,smooth. It’s foie gras of  the sea. BSK bought a small tray of Uni for HG–a sensational taste treat. And, Fearless Fish continues to carry John Dory.. BSK sauteed some filets to follow the Uni. The sauce of butter, white wine and lemon juice was simple–and simply fabulous. Israeli couscous and chopped spinach flanked the filets. HG/BSK drank a lush Pinot Noir. It was a memorable supper.

John Dory isn’t a man. It’s a fish. The name comes from the French name for the fish—-“Jaune Doree” (golden fish)—anglicized to “John Dory”. HG/BSK first tasted the fish in posh restaurants in Los Angeles and Vancouver, B.C. HG/BSK loved it–almost on a par with Dover Sole (the real Dover Sole caught in the Atlantic bordering Europe). Le Dome in Paris is famed for Dover Sole and the price is astronomical. Priced for oligarchs is the fresh Dover Sole flown to New York daily. HG/BSK are not oligarchs or travelers to Paris. So, HG/BSK have fish ecstasy with John Dory. It is not found in most supermarkets—it was a special at Fearless Fish in Providence, RI, a short drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft. The seafood shop is renowned for fresh fish, smoked fish, seafood salads, pickled herring, oysters, etc. BSK bought three John Dory filets there yesterday.  BSK pan fried them in butter and olive oil, adding lemon juice and white wine for a sauce. BSK served the succulent John Dory with smashed potatoes and ratatouille. HG/BSK smiled as they ate. Yes, the John Dory was superlative –BSK liked it more than Le Dome’s Dover Sole which swims in a sea of butter, regarded by BSK as overkill, blunting the sea taste of the fish.  John Dory isn’t cheap (What is these days?) but it’s affordable. HG/BSK will rejoice when it appears at Fearless Fish (hope it’s often).

When HG lived in Santa Fe and Colorado, HG could drive.  This meant HG could motor to excellent Vietnamese restaurants and enjoy super size bowls of Pho, enlivened with a handful of greens and herbs. Happily, there were almost a score of  good Pho restaurants in Denver (most located on or near Federal Boulevard.)  In Santa Fe, HG lunched very often at Saigon Cafe, excellent food and efficient service.  These days in Rhode Island, HG is a bit too handicapped to drive. BSK is the chauffeur de luxe. One problem.  BSK (despite HG pleading) refuses to stop at any eatery–Vietnamese, Japanese, Mexican, etc.. BSK makes up for it by making wonderful Pho with leftover Bell & Evans chicken, rice noodles, and a host of vegetables, spices and herbs. HG  had two big bowls of BSK Pho last night. Joy!! BSK made enough for an HG supper next night (if BSK protests, BSK will freeze wonder Pho).