HUNGRY GERALD

HG has always enjoyed Chicago food. When SJ lived there, excellent son led HG/BSK to wonderful eating experiences. Now closed, Soul Kitchen served splendid oysters and the best ever shrimp and grits adorned with fried sage leaves. Cafe Ba Ba Reeba pleasured HG with hearty blood sausage (morcilla)and cannelloni with tuna and a creamy vinaigrette. Funky Korean and Mexican joints. And, Frontera, refined Mexican cooking. SJ/HG/BSK were not fond of Chicago’s deep dish pizza. Allegiance was to New York and New Jersey. Street food was sublime. The two famous (deserved) examples are the Chicago Hot Dog (Vienna Brand frankfurter, yellow mustard, green pickle relish, pickle spear, tomato wedges, pickled sport peppers, dash of celery salt) and the Italian Beef Sandwich (slices of Vienna brand beef with a lush brown gravy enriched with Worcestershire Sauce, wine and bacon fat). These good things are tasty but messy. Cover up when eating. A tarp would be helpful. When in Chicago on business, HG ate often at traditional Gene & Georgetti. “Garbage Salad” to start (shrimp, onions, tomatoes, garlic, olives, etc.). Main dish was calf’s liver grilled medium rare and accompanied by thick-cut bacon, fried onions and garlic mashed potatoes. Finale was grappa. Happy memories.

Blame it on Massimo R., HG/BSK’s talented, tactful, amiable, athletic son-in-law (married to HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley). Massimo is a Professor and head of Italian studies at Brown University. He is the author of a number of books and an authority on Italian culture, specifically the school of”melancholy” in art and literature; Italian cinema (heads film festivals at Brown) the career of Garibaldi; modern Italian literature. He has been honored by the Italian government with the “Ufficiale” title and is a leader in the digital humanities. He is also a loving and devoted husband and father. Plus, still a skilled and competitive tennis player (a room in the parental home in the Veneto region was filled with his tennis trophies). Quite a guy. However. Massimo is the cause of a marital conflict: HG vs. BSK. The subject is the texture of pasta. HG likes it medium soft (“Mushy,” says BSK). BSK likes pasta super al dente (“Cardboard,” says HG). Massimo, like many Italians, is very knowledgeable about wine, cheese, bread and food. He likes pasta extremely al dente. BSK, to HG’s discontent, has followed the Professor’s lead. HG/BSK have found a way to compromise. Flat pasta: Linguine, spaghetti, tagliatelle, fettucine, pappardelle, etc. are removed from the pot for BSK when done to BSK’s liking. HG’s gets a minute or so more boiling. Both HG and BSK are satisfied. When it comes to shaped pasta like penne, rigatoni, farfalle. conchiglie, etc., they are cooked in separate pots and both eaters add the sauce (and some additional pasta water) when done to their taste. Peace reigns at the HG/BSK table.

For years, the freshest, cheapest seafood was available just a few minutes drive from HG/BSK’s home.
By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peter’s was a staple, HG went there daily to pick up fresh fish, smoked salmon, oysters, mussels, lobsters, etc. The proprietor was Cheryll O’ Hanley, educator/actress/fish merchant. Well, bad news has arrived. By the Bay has closed. Permanently. Have been unable to reach Cheryll for an explanation. For fresh seafood, HG/BSK are now dependent on the fish counter at the Saturday Farmers Market in Charlottetown. Picked up salmon and haddock there for two meals. Both were splendid. Salmon was the best HG has ever tasted on PEI (Silver lining?). Also, there’s a fish truck in Montague and a fish truck in Morell. Have to inquire about their hours. Mussels and oyster and clams are daily available at Mussel King and Island Shellfish on Red Head Lane in Morell. Lobsters and Johnny Flynn’s Rollo Bay oysters are available at The Lobster Shack in Souris. Of course, Exquisite Maiko will still head down to the docks to load up on free mackerel. HG/BSK will, with regret, get by without By the Bay.

Yes, that’s how old HG will be on Nov. 9 (if luck holds out). Thoughtful Atlanta nephew Paul Freeman inquired if any event is planned. No. However, BSK, the loving, creative, capable wife of almost 56 years (July 2 is the anniversary) has kept HG alive and arranged the perfect 90 years birthday gift: One week in Vancouver, B.C., HG/BSK’s favorite big city. BSK secured a luxurious apartment with water views and building amenities including swimming pool, hot tub, fitness center. With BSK’s collaboration, HG will dine on Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese and Indian food. Vancouver is the most Asian city in North America and the food celebrates diversity. (HG will post full reports). HG is surprised at reaching such an august age. COPD (Thanks to 50 years of smoking and inhaling Marlboros,Gauloises, Gitanes and Punch Dark Maduro leaf cigars. ) hampers some of HG’s activities. But, HG gets great pleasure from New Mexico and Prince Edward Island. And, there’s the delights of being still in love with BSK. Much family pleasure from daughter Lesley R. and husband, Massimo; SJ and Exquisite Maiko, dazzling chef/wife; HG’s generous daughter, Victoria Freeman, and husband/chef, Marc Meyer, the great New York restaurant team. And, the array of wonderful grandchildren: Arianna and Sofia R. (now grown up with A. in her own loft/apartment and S., a recent graduate with honors from Columbia. Big Boy Haru and Teru, the glittering bundle of cuteness, will leave Tokyo and accompany SJ for a month stay (August) in Prince Edward Island. Maiko may not be able to leave her chef job. (No tempura or shumai, sob, sob!).! Yes, life’s good. Ninety is a lot but greedy HG wants more.

Yiddish is a language that is always close to death but survives. Miraculously. Speakers and readers of Yiddish diminish due to old age, Israel’s embrace of Hebrew and, tragically, the Holocaust, which murdered millions of Eastern European Jews and their Yiddish culture. There is no other language that tops Yiddish in expressing irony, sarcasm and the bleak comedy of life. Yiddish words have multiple meanings. It’s all in the inflection. A number of Yiddish words have become part of everyday American English. Chutzpah. Schmuck. Shlep. Shtick. Tuchis (and its variants “tushie” and “tush”). There are more. On the edge of acceptance are the toasts “L’chaim” (to life!!) and “Gesundheit” (health). Anatomical words are gaining ground. “Puhlkes” (thighs). “Puzzeh” (large paunch). And, of course, “Putz” (penis). Hey, ‘Putz” may already have arrived.

Last weekend, HG nephew Paul Freeman and wife Vicki celebrated the marriage of their youngest daughter, Staci, to Jack Spangler. The festivities were epic. Made coronations and state dinners look a bit shabby. The site was the St. Regis Hotel in the stylish Buckhead neighborhood of Atlanta. Paul, a daring and successful real estate developer, built (and sold) the luxurious hotel (site of one of Atlanta’s best restaurants). Floors of condominiums (also developed by Paul) top the hotel. Paul and Vicki occupy the entire 25th floor. The apartment is a virtual European palazzo. with glorious views of the entire city. (Superlatives don’t come close to describing the space, wine storage, comfort and luxury). And, they have the advantages of the hotel’s pool and spa. Plus room service, HG presumes. Atlanta’s airport is huge. However, due to Paul’s planning, HG/BSK’s arrival was flawless as HG/BSK were whisked to the wedding rehearsal dinner hosted by the Spangler family. Site was a brewery and some 100 guests feasted on down-home barbecue, macaroni and cheese, etc. HG/BSK slept peacefully in a royally appointed guest bedroom in the Paul/Vicki palazzo. Pleasant coffee and yogurt breakfast. Then off to an hour of cycling and weight exercise in the hotel fitness center. Among the pre-wedding activities: Makeup professional enhanced the faces of the female wedding guests; family photos; signing of traditional Jewish documents outlining the responsibilities of the marital couple. The wedding itself was a spectacle. Magnificent floral arrangements. Beautifully decorated “chupah” (the arch that houses the exchange of vows and Rabbinical invocations). Given the ecumenical nature of the event, a Priest also participated. Staci, of course, looked beautiful. Jack, a handsome young man, was properly serious. Most moving moment: Paul wiping away tears of emotion as he walked Staci to the “chupah.” HG was provided with a vodka on the rocks since the wedding took place at HG’s usual cocktail hour. Following the ceremonies, folks descended upon a buffet of sushi and sashimi. Waitpersons dispensed very good beluga caviar. The beverage, naturally, was champagne. Then, into the ballroom for dinner, music and dancing. Once more, the flowers and lights were dazzling. Dinner was served from a buffet and the choices were happy ones. Sea bass. Vegetarian. Cold seafood. Lobster. Prime rib. HG drank much white wine and relished the cold seafood. Went back for seconds (and thirds) for oysters, shrimp and crab claws. HG’s dream dinner. Many joyous moments for HG/BSK. Happy reunions with HG’s niece, Melanie, and husband, Rick; HG niece Laurie, and husband, Bob; HG cousin, Freeman Shore. Plus grand-nephew, Adam Freeman and family. Adam has turned into a successful businessman with a loving family. A real “mensch.” Also enjoyed chatting with Lianne, P. and V.’s eldest daughter, and her male companion. No, HG wasn’t the oldest person in the room. That was Millie West, 100, Vicki’s Mom. Tablemates included HG daughter, Victoria Freeman, and husband, Marc Meyer (the renowned New York restaurateurs approved the cuisine); HG’s Boston nephew, Jonathan Katz (a successful real estate owner/manager), wife, Barbara, and children, Nicola and Alexander. Barbara is a particular favorite of HG/BSK (and the Riva family of Rhode Island). Barbara is svelte, ageless. Her taste is flawless. Always dressed, with restraint, in designer fashion. What makes her both lovable and annoying is the fact that she can consume a lot of food and not gain an ounce. To the delight and bemusement of the dinner group, Barbara secured from the buffet an 18-inch rib bone which she gnawed happily “It’s the best part,” she said. The music rocked. Back up singers (and dancers) were lovely and talented. Wedding guests danced with abandon. The traditional hora (to Hava Nagilah) was spirited. To sum up: A wonderful spirited and spiritual event, planned, orchestrated and choreographed with great attention to detail by Paul and Vicki. (the party extended into the next day with a delicious brunch). A costly affair, yes, but it was much more than that. It exemplified Paul and Vicki’s generosity and hospitality; their love of family; their commitment to Jewish life in the United States and Israel; their belief in marriage. And, of course, they value friendship. So, thank you, Paul and Vicki. HG/BSK send you our love and appreciation.

An ornament of Rhode Island is the Bristol Oyster Bar in the beautiful, historic town of Bristol (home of the oldest Fourth of July Parade). It occupies an old bank building and its 4 to 6PM “buck a shuck” event is a joy for oyster lovers. Very hungry HG/BSK and brainy and beautiful granddaughter Arianna R. arrived to feast. HG ordered 42 oysters from Rhody bays and sea shores. Plus, six littleneck clams. Wow. The bivavles were chilled nicely, shucked expertly and full of briny oceanic flavor. These were the best American late spring/early summer oysters HG ever tasted. Prince Edward Island oysters (which HG/BSK will devour when they arrive at their oceanfront paradise next week) are harvested in northern climes and are delicious in all seasons. Clams, of course, are year-rounders and Rhody clams are the best. Drank a nice bottle of Muscadet. Went on to pork belly confit (splendid!!) with pickled vegetables and waffle potato crisps. Feta cheese and tomato mixed salad. Desserts were bread pudding and cheesecake, Both very good. HG/BSK drank a glass of favorite merlot: The Velvet Devil from Washington State. Hey, life’s good.

No Rhode Island visit by HG is complete without a meal at Chonquing House, the very good Szechuan restaurant. HG/BSK began eating at Chonquing when it was located in a bleak retail strip in Seekonk, MA. HG loved the food (BSK was restrained in her enthusiasm). HG always worried about Chonquing’s future because the restaurant was inevitably empty. Sometime last year, Chonquing moved into a larger and more elaborate space on Wickenden Street (the location of a number of restaurants) in Providence. HG/BSK and the R. family dined there last year. Food was excellent. Customers sparse. Once more, HG was anxious. Decided to eat there en famille last night. Learned (happily) that the restaurant was still in business. Reservation was 7:30. Restaurant was jammed, boiling with happy customers. And, more kept pouring in. Seated at a nice round table, the group sipped good Rhode Island IPA and shared a dish of wontons in hot chile oil. And, that was it for one hour. Obviously, the kitchen was overwhelmed. When the food arrived it was sensational. Sliced fish in wine sauce. Cumin lamb. Ma Po Tofu. Family Style Tofu. String beans with pickled vegetables. Spicy fried chicken. Eggplant in garlic sauce. There may have been more, but HG didn’t take notes. Happy time. Keep those woks sizzling, Chonquing.

Tony’s Seafood in Seekonk, Ma. (just over the border from Rhody) is one of the great seafood retailers. Sparkling fresh fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Fine prepared sauces and salads. In addition, there is a carefully curated selection of wines, pastas and condiments. The owners are a Sicilian fisherman family that arrived in Rhode Island in the 1900s. The retail store opened in 1947 followed by a thriving wholesale operation. Family owned. Family operated. Service is warm, friendly and informative. For the last days, BSK and gifted daughter Lesley R. have been building meals around Tony’s sea scallops. They are big. Super fresh and juicy. (HG has posted about their use in a savory chowder). Besides the chowder, HG/BSK and the R. family have enjoyed sauteed scallops atop fresh greens and accompanied by creamy polenta. Also, in a pasta enriched by fish stock, onions, garlic and herbs. Yes, HG/BSK can obtain tasty scallops harvested off the Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia shores. And, in Santa Fe, Whole Foods carries tasty (super, super expensive) sea scallops. But, none of these bivalves compares to Tony’s wonders.

HG/BSK are very fond of sea scallops. Of course, nothing quite compares to Nantucket Island bay scallops Their season is brief and they lose a lot of flavor when they leave the Island. Freezing turns their delicate flesh into little balls of cotton. Best eaten raw, minutes after they are pulled out of the bay. HG/BSK get misty-eyed when HG/BSK recall their residence on Nantucket. Caretaker/friend Al K. was an expert scalloper (family had been on Nantucket for many, many generations). Carrying a big bucket of bay scallops harvested minutes before, he invited HG/BSK to an outdoor feast. Armed with glasses of chilled white wine, HG/BSK ate dozens of the raw, sweet morsels. Al shucked. HG/BSK ate. Bivalve heaven. HG/BSK also reached celestial climes at the Riverside, RI, home of the R. family, night before battling traffic jams on the way to granddaughter Sofia R.’s Columbia graduation in New York. It seems that Rhode Island not only has the best clams and squid, but the biggest, juiciest, most flavorful sea scallops HG/BSK ever tasted. Gifted daughter Lesley R. exalted these sea wonders in a chowder (no milk or cream) of fish stock and clam juice flavored with garlic, saffron and many herbs. Added a bit of cod. Cooking perfection. The meal concluded with a cheese platter. HG was enthralled by the ripe robiola and a blue cheese (gorgonzola ?). HG added a bit of sweet to HG’s cheese assortment. Armenian preserved pumpkin in syrup (a gift of an R. friend/neighbor). Superb climax.