HUNGRY GERALD

Lots of rain and strong winds. HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home is feeling the late stages of Hurricane Ida. Glad that a hurricane is named after HG’s late, beloved mother, Ida Kopkind Freeman. HG’s Mom had a great command of traditional eastern European Jewish cuisine. It was only when she attempted “American” dishes did she falter. (Her hamburgers and fried chicken? Oy, veh!!!). An HG favorite among her Jewish dishes was sweet and sour stuffed cabbage (“Holishkes” in Yiddish). The poet, Heine, exclaimed when having “holishkes” at a Vienna kosher restaurant: “What a noble religion we have !!). The ingredients for the mind altering sauce include tomatoes, honey, onions, ginger, etc. You’ll find some authentic recipes online. Enjoy and remember Heine, hurricanes and Mom.

That was one of the oft quoted food instructions by Curnonsky, the esteemed French gourmand and cooking expert. The other was “Food should taste of what it is.” BSK is a Curnonsky advocate and last night’s dinner exemplified his teachings. Very simple. A thick piece of fresh thick hake. Local Prince Edward Island corn. Fennel. It takes skill and concentration to pan fry a thick fish filet and keep it crisp yet fully cooked with a flaky, juicy interior. BSK did this perfectly. Fennel got a long gentle braise in stock and butter. Lush. Buttered and salted corn on the cob, an August/September culinary wonder. Focus. Skill. Concentration. That’s what BSK has. The result is happiness at the table for HG.

As HG has mentioned in previous posts, it has been very difficult to get fresh tuna on Prince Edward Island; great tuna is caught in the surrounding sea but is immediately flown to the Tokyo fish market. Yes, if you’re relishing sushi or sashimi at a legendary Tokyo restaurant, you might have a PEI treat on your plate. For some reason, Julio’s Fish Market in St. Peters (close to HG/BSK’s oceanfront home) gets fresh tuna every now and then. Julio calls BSK; the Wonder Woman picks up two pounds. One pound is frozen (frozen and then thawed tuna is what you get at sushi/sashimi eateries.) The fresh pound is seared and served over rice noodles, rice or greens (HG chooses noodles). That was dinner last night with the tuna flavored with a dash of soy sauce and wasabi. Splendid. And, the frozen fish will be the basis for another feast in the future. Happy tuna time.

For many years, young HG ate and enjoyed garlicky, chunky Brandade (potato, salt cod, garlic puree) at inexpensive French restaurants on Manhattan’s midtown west side. When HG/BSK acquired their first Cuisinart, BSK made a smoother version. The dish has disappeared from most restaurant menus since a top flight version is labor intensive. Balthazar, the popular New York brasserie, still serves it and HG often eats it after some oysters. Good, but not outstanding. The ultimate Brandade, a dish that transports HG to the heavenly realms of culinary delight, is made by the great chef Marc Meyer. Lucky, lucky HG. Knowing HG’s pleasure in his masterpiece. Marc made a big batch as a dinner finale before he and his wife, HG daughter, Vicki, left Prince Edward Island for New York the next morning. Marc used fresh cod, not salt cod,for this dish. PEI potatoes and garlic from Ocean Mist Farm. Extra virgin olive oil and local milk. Whatever else went in the Brandade is Marc’s secret. Marc whipped the ingredients into a smooth mix before the dish went into the oven with a shower of bread crumbs. The result was a dish that seemed to encompass the best flavors of land and sea while being smooth (but with texture). Proportions of garlic, cod, etc. were perfectly balanced. The browned bread crumbs added some color and a bit of crunch. HG had many helpings (oh, joy,there are some leftovers.) Other elements of this bravura farewell meal were shucked Colville Bay oysters, lobster salad, Blum’s sweet corn on the cob. Lesley R. and BSK collaborated on a delicious dish of haddock filets baked on a bed of chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic and fennel. A meal that will live in HG’s memory.

Many years ago, HG’s son in law, the brilliant Massimo R., introduced HG to a pasta favorite, spaghetti alla norma. Massimo was acting as tour guide on a family visit to Sicily. He ordered the dish for HG while lunching at an outdoor restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking Greek temple ruins. HG was entranced by the food and the view. Last night, the star chef Marc Meyer (visiting HG/BSK with his wife, HG daughter Vicki) made his version of the Sicilian dish–penne alla norma. Using fresh eggplants from the Prince Edward Island Farmers Market and local cherry tomatoes (some grown by BSK) Marc hit the Sicilian taste target. Voluptuous. Powerfully flavorful. The injunction against Marc cooking isn’t being obeyed and the family taste buds are being rewarded. The dinner started with Lesley R.’s refreshing salad of tiny pink Newfoundland shrimp. It ended with a cheese platter (the chevre was outstanding) plus Spanish quince jam as a condiment. Gourmands rule on PEI.

A rule was made. And, then broken. It was decided that chef, Marc Meyer, visiting Prince Edward Island with his wife, HG’s daughter, Vicki, would do no cooking. With staff shortages at Marc/Vicki’s five New York restaurants, Marc has been super busy filling in as line cook and doing other culinary tasks. However, possibly at Vicki’s urging, Marc cooked a momentous dinner tonight. It started with sea scallop sashimi. Marc trimmed the scallops of their fibrous edges, sliced them paper thin. Fanned out on a plate, they got a squeeze of lemon juice, a discreet shake of piquant spice, a few slices of fiery jalapenos. A sublime way to start a summer meal. Then, onto the main dish. Marc boiled little potatoes. Sliced red onions, radishes, fennel, cucumbers, etc. Added lettuce leaves. Tossed in a pungent dressing. It all went on BSK’s largest platter. The salad mix was topped with baked fresh tuna and, as a final touch, perfect hard boiled eggs. The dinner table was presented with a huge tower of great food. Not to worry. Modest amount of leftovers. Many thanks, Marc.

HG’s daughter, Vicki and husband, Marc, the two stars of New York restaurants (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s) have arrived on Prince Edward Island. The generous duo brought a carton of excellent white wine and some superior tequila. Adding to the delight of their company, August sweet corn has arrived. Blum’s sells this wonder out of its truck. A pat of butter and some sea salt. Wow! Garrison Kellor said it all: “People have tried and tried. But, sex is not better than sweet corn.” It is tempting to have Marc, a trailblazing great chef, cook all of our meals. We will resist. He needs a rest from cooking.

Beautiful granddaughter Sofia has arrived on Prince Edward Island after a marathon drive from Santa Fe and Providence. Her exuberant personality is very welcome. And, accompanying Sofia, was Toby, The Wonder Dog. HG/BSK haven’t seen their ingratiating furry companion and guardian for more than a year. He has been much missed. HG/BSK have been concerned. Would Toby remember them after more than a year of loving care from Sofia and frolics with Mintern, granddaughter Arianna’s cat?? Not to worry. His memory is acute. This morning, Toby greeted HG by rolling over to receive his customary belly rubs. Happy way to start the day.

Paris has the reputation of being rude to foreigners. The reverse has been true for HG/BSK during the 55 years they have visited the glorious city. In clothing and shoe shops; drugstores, bakeries, groceries, wine stores., etc., HG/BSK have always been treated with courtesy and smiling service. Best of all have been bistros, restaurants and brasseries. Many decades ago, famished HG/BSK arrived during a crowded lunch hour at Chez Georges on Rue du Mail. No reservation. Chez Georges was well regarded then but it has gone on to great fame (and escalating prices). The then owner shook hands with HG and said: “Very short wait. Have a glass of Fleurie and enjoy.” And, HG /BSK did enjoy a meal of traditional French bistro classics and had numerous happy meals at Chez Georges over the years. On a first visit to Paris, the gracious maitre d’ of a restaurant on Boulevard St. Germain (before luxury merchants and high rents chased restaurants away) saw that HG/BSK needed menu assistance and composed a perfect meal for them: Fresh white asparagus with sauce mousseline followed by tender slices of leg of lamb and crisp French fries. Then, camembert and a small green salad. Dessert was wild raspberries with lightly whipped cream. Wine was Beaujolais. Paris perfection. On another foray on the left bank, HG/BSK had couscous at a small place owned and run by a rambunctious, lively woman. HG received a warm hug from the lady and HG/BSK had a generous meal of couscous and chicken stewed with preserved lemons. When the couscous began disappearing it was immediately replenished and given a pour of vegetable laden broth and a big spoonful of fiery harissa. This couscous experience was replicated a few years ago at the equally friendly Jour et Nuit restaurant in an Arab quarter of Montmartre. For many years, HG/BSK’s favorite dining place was Brasserie Le Stella in the tony 16th. Oysters, bulots, racks of lamb were superb and served with grace and sly humor. But, the best thing about Stella was Maitre d’ Christian. Grace and elegance personified, Christian was always ready to greet HG/BSK with double cheek kisses and complimentary flutes of champagne. More than a professional, Christian became a friend. Ah, Paree!! (Look at the illustration. Christian is at the rear of the photo with his arm around the chef).

BSK’s sister and brother in law, Noel and Yossi R., hosted a lively and tasty dinner at their blooming Ocean Mist Farm on the southeast shore of Prince Edward Island. First, there was an appetizer of hummus (Israeli flavor) and Noel’s home baked, zaatar covered pita (far superior to the supermarket version). Noel drank tea but Lesley and Massimo R.; Yossi, HG/BSK, enjoyed icy white wine. Lesley acted as sous chef by cooking linguine to Massimo’s demanding Italian standard. The pasta was covered by Noel’s clam sauce made with fresh local bivalves. HG relished a generous bowl sprinkled with red pepper flakes. Briny deliciousness. More white wine and a green salad. Then, a dessert of vanilla ice cream with Ocean Mist raspberries. Oh, my!! HG sipped after dinner red wine and contemplated HG’s good fortune at being alive on PEI.