HUNGRY GERALD

Off to family reunion (SJ and wonderful family; daughter Lesley R.; Victoria Freeman and husband Marc Meyer) in wonderful vancouver, HG/BSK’s part time home for many years. Have rented a three bedroom, three bath home (tell you about its wonders in next post). Slept (very fitfully) at Best Western motel in Albuquerque in order to catch an early Alaskan Airlines flight to Van (highly recommend Alaska Airlines for air travel). HG arrived in Van tired and feeling poorly (last meal at Sushi Hana did not agree with the old guy). Off to Chongqing Chinese Restaurant on Commercial Drive A favorite when living nearby). Terrible. Lousy food (though BSK liked her Szechuan spring beans, a throat handicapped HG couldn’t swallow). Expensive with criminally bad service. Must be new ownership. Thoughtful BSK shopped and restored HG with spicy Thai soup and sublime soft tofu. Chilled Rose wine. Much happier and healthier HG. Off to bed and fell into deep sleep immediately. A new happy man in the morning with delights to come.

BSK used Greek cuisine techniques to make a fabulous dinner dish last night—Youvarlakia Avgolemony. Translation: Meatballs (made of ground chicken) floating in golden soup featuring lemons and beaten eggs. BSK mixed the ground chicken with cracker crumbs, herbs, olive oil and spices. Poached in the soup they were light and flavorful. On the menus of Greek restaurants in the USA, the soup is called “avgolemono” and is usually served in a bowl with rice. Avgolemono can be thickened into a sauce. BSK serves it over grilled leg of lamb.The lamb is marinated and butterflied. This procedure means there is a choice of rare, medium rare or medium slices of lamb. Everyone is pleased. The avgolemono adds a zesty, silky layer of flavor. (For those, like HG, who like a bit of spicy heat, a minimal dusting of cayenne can be employed).

BSK today lunched on Russ & Daughters matzo ball soup. Unlike HG, BSK had no problem in swallowing the matzo ball. However, BSK thought it bland. Very unlike the light as a feather matzo ball that BSK creates. BSK’s matzo balls contain much chopped dill and some other flavor enhancing ingredients. Far better than HG’s Mom’s matzo balls or any Jewish delicatessen versions. BSK does other excellent Jewish dishes such as kasha varnishkes (buckwheat groats with fried onions and sour cream) and tender stewed brisket awash in lusty gravy. BSK doesn’t make blintzes. But, BSK does make crepes topped with red salmon caviar (and sour cream, of course). Not so shabby. Mystery. How can a Canadian/Midwestern woman babtised in an Episcopal church cook with such Jewish soul ? The mystery has been solved, BSK’s sister, Noel M., had her ancestry checked online. Turns out there’s a healthy amount of Ashkenazi Jewishness in her background (BSK’s would be the same). Welcome to the tribe, BSK.

For some obscure reason, Mexican avocados couldn’t be exported to the land of the free, brave and crazy. Thankfully, they are back in abundance. A further blessing, they are very inexpensive at HG/BSK’s local New Mexico supermarket in Pojoaque (minutes from HG/BSK’s home). The mystery is how something so delicious can also be so nutritious and life sustaining. At dinner, BSK often serves a salad of sliced avocado and Kumatos (juicy brown tomatoes). Goes with everything–meat, fish or fowl. Avocado toast is the best breakfast. However, avocados achieve spicy splendor in guacamole. BSK makes guacamole with a chunky texture and adds local green chile salsa (Young Guns brand) or tomatillo sauce, or pico de gallo made by local women. Lots of lemon juice. Best guac is at a nearby restaurant, Gabriel’s. It’s made tableside and pounded in a traditional bowl with a host of savory ingredients. Sip a Margarita, eat the guac and be happy.

BSK shopped at Santa Fe’s Whole Foods this afternoon. Picked up ingredients for the perfect dinner: Wild salmon filets, first spring asparagus, sweet potatoes. BSK marinated the salmon in a spicy Korean sauce and pan broiled the fish into medium rare succulence. The asparagus was steamed to the right texture and gilded with a butter and lemon sauce. The sweet potatoes got a long bout in the oven. HG likes to put big chunks of butter in the sweet spuds. BSK just gives them a sprinkle of sea salt. Excellent bottle of Chianti accompanied. Weather was delightful. Temp in the 60’s. Blue skies. Bright sun. So, this climaxed a perfect day. However, Salmon is a fatty fish and cooking it on a gas range creates an aroma. HG doesn’t mind. But, BSK has sensitive nostrils. Exhaust was put in motion. Candles were lit. Matches struck. It took a while, but the aroma diminished. BSK sighed with relief.

The landmark New York “appetizer store”, Russ & Daughters, delivered a tasty package to HG in New Mexico. Scallion cream cheese. Red salmon caviar. Chopped liver. Schmaltz herring. Two quarts of matzo ball soup. Pumpernickel bread. To start dinner, HG poured vodka on the rocks plus a beer chaser. Ate chunks of the herring with slices of the bread and washed them down with the alcoholic beverages. Heated a bowl of the matzo ball soup. Refilled the beer glass. Sipped the broth and ate the boiled slices of carrot (both very good). Time to bite into the piece de resistance: The matzo ball. Disaster. Perfectly soft and light ball. However, matzo ball grains lodged in HG’s surgically constricted throat. Uncomfortable evening dislodging them. Is HG doomed to a non-matzo ball life? Sadness.

No seas moisten the borders of New Mexico, rightfully called “The Land of Enchantment.” Yes, the state is landlocked. However, splendid seafood is available, airlifted to Whole Foods, fresh and tasty. Yesterday, BSK bought petrale sole fillets. BSK dipped them in beaten egg, dusted them lightly with flour, and sauteed them perfectly. A bit of melted butter, lemon juice, Frank’s hot sauce. They were served with mashed potatoes and braised endive. Elegant meal. Night before, BSK topped cheesy, creamy grits with a melange of previously frozen shellfish. And, tonight there will be spicy shrimp with linguini (olive oil, garlic, parsley, anchovy sauce). In a few months, HG/BSK will be on Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK’s oceanfront summer home is minutes from local lobster, mussels, and fish. Plus world’s best oysters (surprisingly inexpensive). Pass the shucking tools, please.

Arianna and Sofia Riva, HG/BSK’s beautiful and brilliant granddaughters, are spending a week at HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. Nothing could be more joyou. Arianna brought along her regal, imperious male cat—Mintern. Though not affectionate, Toby, The Wonder Dog, gets along politely with Mintern. The young women have been missing Tex/Mex food so lunches have been festivals with tacos, breakfast burritos, menudo and other good things obtained takeout from nearby Gabriel’s, Sopaipilla Factory and El Parasol. Arianna and Sofia were active sous chefs and after dinner cleanuppers. Arianna has a high tech job (she lives near Boulder, Co.) so she had to interrupt vacation time with some lengthy intervals at her computer. Sofia, who is getting her Master’s degree in Padua, Italy, had time for hikes and church visits (Chimayo) with BSK. Upon leaving the USA, Sofia will meet up in London with HG daughter, Victoria, and Vic’s husband, Marc Meyer. They’ll be in London to explore new restaurant ideas. Lucky Sofia will accompany the New York restaurateurs to their gourmet destinations. BSK made a robust picante green chile pork stew for farewell dinner. Palates were cooled by desserts of vanilla ice cream topped with BSK’s lush raspberry puree. The dinner was enlivened by the presence of HG/BSK’s dear friend and former neighbor, Karen K. Karen now lives in Santa Fe and once more is in the process.of creating a glorious garden Happily, she brought a box of chocolates . A bite of chocolate, a sip of Jack Daniels. Perfect climax to a farewell dinner.

Happy HG is smiling–and chewing–again. Skilled Santa Fe dentist, Dr. Marc Applebaum, placed HG’s repaired and refurbished dentures into HG’s mouth. Oh,joy. HG’s first act of chewing after toothless days was savoring menudo (spicy Mexican tripe stew). Pure pleasure. Dinner was “Mariscada” (Spanish mixed seafood stew in garlicky green sauce). BSK based it on the dish HG/BSK often relished at long closed El Faro restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village. BSK tweaked the BSK version with the addition of fresh asparagus. Functioning teeth. BSK cuisine. A tasty combination.

Thirty years ago HG had life saving surgery for throat cancer (this followed 50 years of cigarette smoking). Post-surgery there were weeks of radiation. The radiation had a destructive effect on HG’s gums and all teeth had to be pulled. Dentures were provided by a skilled Dentist in Vancouver B.C., enabling HG to eat steak, corn on the cob, etc. With the passage of time, these dentures were ill fitting and inefficient. It was time for major reconstruction. So, it was off to a dental specialist for an hour of fitting and recasting with new molds sent to a lab for finishing work. This has left HG toothless for almost four days surviving on soups, yogurt, ice cream, maple syrup, coffee and wine. Absence of teeth did not impair usual routine of pre-dinner Negronis and after dinner Jack Daniels whiskey. (BSK’s savory “green soup” was very comforting for lunch and dinner). Will get new dentures tomorrow HG will smile.