HUNGRY GERALD

Magic day before Thanksgiving. Visiting brilliant daughter, Lesley R., and phenomenal granddaughter, Arianna R., are with HG/BSK in Santa Fe. They were busy preparing all of the good things that will accompany the turkey on T-DAY. HG spied cranberry sauce, stuffing and gravy (of course). In addition: Corn bread, mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, pearl onions,creamed spinach. The ultimate feast. BSK made butternut squash soup (from late beloved HG sister Beulah Naomi’s recipe). And, that unctuous soup (BSK added some jalapenos and a few other things to enhance the classic wonder) was dinner tonight plus salad, cheese, perfectly moist cornbread and red wine. Comforting down home cooking. After dinner, HG settled back in his Eames black leather and rosewood lounge chair complete with ottoman. (HG has been comforted by various editions of this very expensive contemporary masterpiece for some 63 years). Besides Toby, The Wonder Dog, HG had another companion: Mintern, Arianna’s cat who is beautiful, friendly and infinitely graceful. Multi talented Ari had made the TV and HG’s hearing aids functional. The hearing aids were a BSK thoughtful gift to HG enabling HG to see movies, etc. without subtitles. HG looked forward to a perfect evening (enhanced by a snifter of Tennessee sour mash whiskey). Not to be. The great Eames chair fell apart in a number of pieces. This happened a few years ago,much to HG’s distress. Seems, the epitome of chic modernist comfort has a design flaw. Fortunately, there is a company, Hume Modern, that specializes in repairing Eames chairs. Fear not, HG was not injured but spilled a few drops of whiskey.

HG mused about movies this chilly day in Nee Mexico. As a lifelong cinema addict, HG decided to list the ten movies that gave HG repealed pleasure even after as many as twenty viewings, Some cannot be classified as “great” but all are a delight. #1–Citizen Kane. of course. #2–Children of Paradise (French). #3–The Dead–John Huston brings James Joyce to life. #4 and #5–Godfather One and Godfather Two. True American epics. #6–Chinatown. Literate script and riveting Jack Nicholson. #7–Sweet Smell of Success. Majestic, cynical movie that mirrored HG’s young days as a press agent. Burt Lancaster and Tony Curtis are epic. #8–Goodfellas. HG has a weakness for Mafia movies, #9–Grand Illusion Erich von Stroheim and Jean Gabin directed by Jean Renoir (French). #10–Sunday in the Country (French). Directed by Bernard Tavernier with the brilliant Louis Ducreux. A forgotten masterpiece.

Sad news. Dave Frishberg has died. Frishberg was a wonderful jazz pianist and songwriter. He gave HG laugh filled delight singing his witty, inventive songs in a voice that was perfect for them (and, of course, Dave accompanied his vocals with adroit piano riffs). Ah, those songs: “My Attorney Bernie”, “Do I Miss New York ??”, “I’m Hip”, “Dodger Blue”. These are some of my favorites. There are many more. The most extraordinary and ingenious is “Van Lingle Mungo.” Mungo (1911-1985) was a pitcher for the Brooklyn Dodgers and New York Giants. Born in Pageland, South Carolina, he had a long major league career starting in i931. His record: W120–L115. He was an outstanding hitting pitcher and often appeared as a pinch hitter. But, his immortality rests with his unusual euphonious name. He is the centerpiece of Dave’s song. The lyrics are composed of the names of baseball players of Dave’s (and HG’s youth). Two euphonious players of that era were Frenchy Bordagaray and Cookie Lavagetto. Frenchy is in the song but Cookie isn’t. Go figure.

BSK often manages to slip in some cheese (as well as a few other surprise elements) when making her lush sauces. For example: BSK is fond of a dish served at Santa Fe’s Compound Restaurant. It’s polenta smothered in a buttery wild mushroom sauce and topped with sauteed greens. BSK duplicated the dish for dinner last night. But, BSK added Italian truffle cheese as the polenta was stirred. This gave the dish additional creaminess as well as the scent of truffles. Oh, my!! Last night the main dish was penne with cauliflower sauce. BSK added abundant Danish blue cheese to the mix as well as anchovies. Yes, anchovies. They don’t have any fishy taste but enhance all of the other flavors in the sauce. Big winner. BSK also adds anchovies to broccoli pasta sauce plus chunks of mozzarella and cherry tomatoes. HG/BSK are in New Mexico, not Italy. But, sometimes…..

This is a post HG never wanted to write. Stevie died of cancer a few days ago. The world’s wittiest woman, she was HG/BSK’s pal for more than a half century. Memories galore of mirth filled experiences (and meals) in Fire Island, New York, Colorado, New Mexico. She was unique, irreplaceable. A true New Yorker. Talented as a big time advertising copywriter and glorious in her authorship of books, magazine and newspaper articles, television appearances. “The Brisket Book” was her last book and if you love life and food you must own it. The loss of Stevie leaves a hole in HG/BSK’s hearts and lives. Stevie’s object in life was to bring joy and laughter to every occasion. And, she succeeded. (HG has often written about HG’s beloved friend. Check hungrygerald.com archive: Pierson vs.Lebowitz 11/23/2010, More Joy 12/2/2019. Holiday Reunion 12/1/2019).

Hard to believe. HG was 92 on Nov. 9. Many affectionate emails and phone calls from family and friends (plus some much appreciated generous gifts). Let’s face it. 92 isn’t aging or mature. 92 is old. However, HG has enough unimpaired faculties to enjoy life, swimming, the delights of Prince Edward Island and New Mexico. So, after 20 laps in HG/BSK’s heated indoor pool, it was off to birthday dinner at Compound Restaurant in Santa Fe. Forget the food and wine for a moment. The star of the evening was BSK. The woman was the epitome of chic, style and beauty. Ageless. During 20 months in PEI and homecoming to New Mexico, HG has only seen BSK in sweatpants and other very casual attire. No makeup. For HG birthday, BSK did full “dress up.” The color was black. Round neck silk blouse in a black and white abstraction. Kenzo jacket and pants. All bought in Paris 25 years ago. Still the height of style. Attire fit forever svelte BSK perfectly. Yes, HG is 92 and after 58 years of marriage HG remains in love with a wondrous, creative woman. Dinner was upscale. Shared sensational tuna tartare which was finely chopped, topped with black caviar and accompanied by walnut toast, savory mayonnaise and wasabi sauce. Mains were seared greens and wild mushrooms over polenta (a BSK favorite). For HG, a huge dish of two (sizeable) striped bass filets accompanied by cockles in a spicy tomato sauce. These good things rested on a layer of spaghetti squash enriched by tomatoes, peppers, onions, mushroom slivers in a briny sauce with hints of garlic. For dessert, HG had an “Opera” cake. Chocolate mousse enrobed in thick chocolate sauce. There was a bit of ganache and a layer of butterscotch and bittersweet chocolate sauces. Well, if this was an “Opera”, it was a duet sung by Placido Domingo and Joan Sutherland. The food was sumptuous and the Prosecco and Provencal Rose’ accented it but all the feasting was overshadowed by BSK’s dazzling presence.

After an exhausting motor trip HG/BSK are back in their magical New Mexico compound. HG quickly went to the pool house and swam an invigorating 20 laps. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was happy sniffing and exploring. No ocean views, of course, but the vistas of autumn gold leaves are visual magic. Emphasis on fish cuisine continues. Yes, you can get good (if pricey) fish at Whole Foods in Santa Fe. BSK scored some Petrale sole, steamed it over a bed of spinach, ginger and garlic. The liquid was clam broth. HG insisted on buying salmon at Trader Joe’s. BSK was dubious. Rightfully so. The salmon was terrible (Toby has been enjoying it for dinner.). A lesson for HG. Let BSK shop and don’t argue.

Yes, it was an exhausting automobile trip from Rhode Island to Santa Fe. Four days of driving (for BSK) and three nights at overpriced motels/hotels. BSK doesn’t trust HG at the wheel so relentless BSK drives on, pausing ony for gas and bathroom stops. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is the best traveler, a quiet friendly, cuddly presence. Previously, HG enjoyed swimming in hotel indoor pools (and lounging in hot tubs). However, Covid has made it too risky for the old fellow. HG/BSK dined in their hotel rooms on good stuff BSK picked up at Italian shops in Providence. Tortellini in brodo. Bluefish pate (superlative)/ Octopus salad. Snail salad. Roasted peppers. Truffle cheese. Crusty bread. Middle Eastern meat pies from Fall River, MA. Much good red wine. Excellent menu. The trip (despite the food and wine) was too tiring (even for expert long distance driver BSK). Next time it will be Southwest Airlines for HG/BSK.

Thoughtful, brilliant daughter Lesley R. and her equally brilliant husband, Massimo R., make generous efforts to provide HG/BSK with culinary pleasures when they make a stop over in Rhode Island before moving on to their New Mexico home. They concentrate on feasts unobtainable in the Santa Fe area even though “The City Different” has many outstanding restaurants (green chile rules). Thus, Leasley and Massim followed up their Chinese dinner with an Indian extravaganza. Takeout from a local Indian restaurant included saag paneer, eggplant, dal, lamb vindaloo and numerous varieties of naan and doass (accompanied by chutneys, mint sauces, raita, etc.). Can’t recall all of the dishes because HG was maddened by food lust). The next night was enlightened home cooking: Shrimp with grits and lightly baked fluke filets ( a la Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey). Sea pleasures. Are HG/BSK lucky? You betcha!!

“Green spaghetti? A-a-rgh!!”. That was the reaction of young SJ’s friend when confronted with a bowl of BSK’ s pesto with tagliatelle. This was when HG/BSK were living in Montclair, N.J. The children, SJ and Lesley were in school and BSK was a pesto pioneer. One of HG/BSK’s friends was the food editor at a major magazine. After a summer swim in HG/BSK’s pool, HG/BSK and the gracious female editor lunched outdoors beneath a wisteria shaded pergola. The menu was a starter of sliced, ripe New Jersey tomatoes (best in the universe) from BSK’s garden with fresh mozzarella churned that morning at Belgiovine’s Italian grocery on nearby Bloomfield Avenue. This was followed by pasta with pesto. The basil in the dish and the leaves decorating the mozzarella were also from the BSK garden. The drink was a rose’. Ice in the glass as is the custom in Provence. After a final sip of wine, the editor declared: “This is the best lunch I’ve ever had.” Would have loved to replicate this meal while in Prince Edward Island, but,alas, PEI tomatoes and mozzarella are not world class (the sweet corn is). Nonetheless, HG was treated to a bowl of BSK’s pesto with tiny potatoes from Ocean Mist Farm, local cherry tomatoes and yellow beans. The vegetables got a splash of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of Maldon salt flakes. No it wasn’t Joisey or Genoa (where pesto was born) but mineral rich potatoes are extraordinary and so are yellow beans. A big plus. HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home has magnificent sea views. Not too shabby.