HUNGRY GERALD

A young, whiskey drinking HG began HG’s journalism career on the five to one PM news desk shift at International News Service/ International News Photos (both later absorbed by United Press). Then, off to Dubiner’s Bar and Restaurant on Stanton Street (LES) for dinner. Whiskey. Gefilte fish with pungent horseradish. More whiskey. “Cholent” (long overnight simmered Jewish meat and vegetable stew covered with fried onions and garlic served with sour pickles and hot pickled peppers on the side). More whiskey after dinner with raffish companions (cops, bail bondsmen, loan sharks, criminals). Laughter. Colorful stories of crime, sex, corruption, etc. Accompanied by whiskey, of course. Dubiner’s closed at four AM. HG and companions walked to an after hours joint (it masqueraded as a luncheonette). Tipsy (polite synonym for “drunk”) HG had more whiskey and a special (gratis) dish of pieces of crisp fried fish smothered in crushed garlic. With a sprinkle of kosher salt, the fish was sublime (being drunk helped). Staggered off to Second Avenue Baths for steam, eucalyptus room sauna, hot shower, ice plunge, Then, restful sleep in bed partition. Woke to a hearty breakfast and a day and night of news, booze and unhealthy food (7 PM snack was pickled pig’s knuckle, hard boiled egg and beer at the Mirror Bar). So, how has HG managed to live to 92? Credit The Wonder Woman, BSK (best wife, lover, caretaker, cook, handywoman, financial and household manager, and more. Much more. Lucky HG.

HG/BSK are lucky to have a source of fresh fish caught off the shores of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. The source is Julio’s Seafood, located in the town of St. Peter’s which is only a short drive for BSK. (Juilio just added an oyster bar to his store). BSK is a very good customer so BSK gets alerts about favorite fish. A few days ago, BSK got a hake alert. so, creative BSK cooked a pan of sliced potatoes, chopped garlic and many herbs and spices in olive oil and mussel broth (the broth was a leftover from a previous meal). When the potato mix was nearly done, BSK placed hake slices on top. The fish was steamed and then crisped under the broiler. Once more, BSK achieved a taste triumph. On another night, the fish star was tuna. For years, HG/BSK never tasted fresh caught PEI tuna. Japanese would buy the fish and fly them to the Tokyo fish market. This year, however, some fresh tuna has been reserved for PEI gourmands. A tuna alert for BSK and delights ensued. BSK seared slices of tuna to perfection (browned on the outside and raw inside. This was served over warmed cannellini beans mixed with lemon juice, lime juice;chopped garlic, parsley and dill. HG sprinkled some Vietnamese fish sauce on the tuna. HG declared this the best tuna dish ever. (Canned tuna–Italian or Spanish–mixed with Goya cannellini beans, chopped garlic, olive oil and chopped parsley is delightful when you don’t want to cook).

HG had a very thorough eye examination by a Charlottetown, PEI, optometrist. Good results. HG has healthy eyes (needs eye drops and the removal of lens film by an ophthalmologist). Long auto trips and cool weather left HG needing the warmth of a comfy dinner. And, that’s what HG received from caring BSK. There was “green soup”, a tasty melange of pureed vegetables and chicken broth creatively spiced by BSK and served very hot (as soup should be). It is also served at SJ and wife, Maiko’s Tokyo izakaya, Freeman Shokudo. BSK’s comfort meal also included a good baguette, a mind blowing cheese (Cow’s Triple Creme Bleu); much red wine. HG had the usual dessert of French chestnut puree and whipped cream. A happy comforted HG.

August 26th was International Dog Day, a day in which we honored our faithful companions. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is international (Dual citizenship: American and Canadian). BSK honors Toby every day with healthy meals and treats, grooming; baths in the tub; walks along the shore at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home and in meadows and roads in New Mexico. And, of course, many tummy rubs, pats and cuddles from HG/BSK. A pampered pup who is an irreplaceable member of the HG/BSK family. Toby has a very loud and raucous bark, unusual for such a little guy. This makes him an ideal watchdog but a nuisance when he barks at squirrels incessantly. (Also, frightens visitors, delivery persons, etc.). Toby is very smart and loving, but very independent. He will come to HG/BSK only when he wants to but can be seduced by the promise of a treat. What breed is he? Mutt. A paragon of cuteness, much admired by canine aficionados. A rescue dog (once sentenced to death), BSK selected him at an animal shelter. Lucky day for Toby and for HG/BSK (and family).

Sadly, this day of celebration was followed by a big change. Toby was sad. Toby was depressed. Not his usual lively, rambunctious personality. That’s because HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R., distinguished husband, Massimo, and their lovely dog, Pip, left Prince Edward Island for their Rhode Island home. They are Toby’s favorite companions and having them at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home has been Toby heaven. Toby is resistant. He will recover. Meanwhile, HG/BSK were joyous at dinner with steaming bowls of BSK’s fusilli with a sauce of cauliflower, zucchini, blue cheese and feta cheese. Lush eating.

HG/BSK are wistful. Gifted daughter Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Massimo R., leave Prince Edward Island for their Rhode Island home tomorrow morning. So, tonight was the farewell meal. It was an extravaganza. Massimo shucked (with his usual perfection) eighteen briny, plump oysters. With white wine they were an auspicious entree. Wonders followed. First, there were mussels (removed from their shells) in a mustard mayonnaise. These were as good as the amuse bouche that HG enjoyed at the venerable Veau d’ Or restaurant on Manhattan’s midtown east side. (It’s still in business). This was followed by crisp russet potato and sweet potato wedges (they were dipped in a horse radish goodness). BSK fried hake to perfection and there was a succulent corn, pepper and tomato salad. Lovely way to say goodbye.

Sad HG. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her brilliant Profesore husband, Massimo, will soon be leaving Prince Edward Island for their Rhode Island home. During their time here, they took loving care of BSK during BSK’s tough bout with Covid. They were irreplaceable. And, there was more. Much more. Massimo shucked oysters, did table setting and dinner clean up (expert dishwasher stacking); made life comfortable and safe for rickety HG; assisted in feeding, walking and other tasks relating to sprightly dogs, Toby and Pip. Lesley handled house management during BSK’s illness and recuperation. And, cooked creatively and deliciously every night and morning ( those corn pancakes created morning bliss for HG). And,all of this was done while Lesley attended to her professional demands (very intense) as did Massimo (not so intense). Happily (weather permitting), they managed to have swims, beach walks and kayak mini-journeys. Last night, Lesley made her unique shrimp salad (light on the; mayonnaise); Asian steamed mussels; sheet pan fried potatoes. And, a lush curry dip for the spuds. The potatoes were tastier than French fries. Cheese. Red wine. Fabulous meal. Again (“Nuch ah mul” in Yiddish).

Gifted and thoughtful daughter, Lesley R., does many wonderful things with seasonal sweet corn. Yes, buttered and salted corn on the cob is a special treat. There’s more. Corn kernels are added to a variety of seafood, chicken and pork chowders and stews. Makes everything better. Lesley has promised her doddering Dad crispy corn fritters. Since they contain fiery jalapenos, they are not breakfast food but a worthy companion of numerous main dishes. HG always had them with Gage & Tollner illustrious mutton chops. Happily the wonderful downtown Brooklyn landmark restaurant has been tastefully restored and reopened. Reviewers say the food and wine are splendid (sauteed clam bellies, an HG/BSK favorite is on the menu). Prices are lofty. In the absence of fritters, Lesley has delighted HG with two scrumptious breakfasts of corn pancakes. Everybody joined in to savor stacks of fluffy pancakes gilded with butter and maple syrup. Lesley saved and refrigerated three pancakes. On the next breakfast morning, Lesley popped them in the microwave. Brought joy to HG (and HG has future fritters).

Pasta for dinner. And, it was spectacular. Lesley R. cut many kernels of sweet corn and mixed them with sliced sea scallops, diced zucchini, onions,cherry tomatoes, garlic, parsley, cilantro and other herbs plus spices. This was simmered in olive oil for a super sofrito that merged beautifully with linguini. HG drank some pleasant pinot noir and happily watched a sunset that sent shafts of color on HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. What made the pasta very special was Lesley’s attention to detail. Scallops are attached to their shells by a tough, inedible muscle. Lesley cut the muscles away and that gave the scallops additional succulence. There were still some ears of corn remaining. HG hopes Lesley will make her excellent corn fritters. In a pinch, HG will fry corn pancakes. Served with sour cream or gilded with maple syrup, these are a breakfast treat. Yes, seasonal sweet corn is a gift that keeps on giving.

As Etta James sang, “At Last.” Yes, at last sweet corn is ripe on Prince Edward Island and — with a dash of butter and salt — it is delicious. Up north in Canada, sweet corn is ready weeks after Americans are feasting on the seasonal delicacy. BSK was determined to find a farm stand selling just picked ears. A determined BSK is focused and relentless. BSK found a stand in an obscure location in the the town of Montague. Young man bagged two dozen and the feasting began tonight. Dinner was simple. Corn (super yummy). Steamed soft shell clams with melted butter and grit free clam broth. Roasted spatchcocked chicken (this was a gift from BSK’s sister, Noel M., and the free range bird was raised by Noel’s neighbor). Green salad. Cheese. Ice cream (and for HG, the usual French chestnut puree and whipped cream). Epic meal. HG warmed a cooked ear of corn in the microwave for a tasty lunch the next day.

HG has been enamored with Asian food since he was nine years old (yes, that was 83 years ago). HG’s late beloved sister, Beulah Naomi Katz, always was generous in providing little HG with sweet treats (Mr. Goodbar was a favorite). But, on HG’s ninth birthday, there was a special culinary adventure. Beulah and HG boarded the Third Avenue El at Fordham Road in The Bronx for a trip to Chatham Square in Chinatown (a long trip made exciting by peering into the tenements that lined Third Avenue). Don’t remember the restaurant but the meal remains fresh in HG’s memory. Starter of egg drop soup enhanced by a bit of soy sauce, Then, a huge bowl of chow mein (heavy on the corn starch). HG was cautioned about not adding much of the tongue burning (but tasty) Chinese mustard. Dessert was an almond cookie washed down with one of the endless cups of fragrant hot tea. HG was transported. The meal was the best HG had ever had. HG daydreamed about living in Chinatown and eating food like that every day. HG’s love affair with Chinese food remains passionate but HG’s tastes have expanded to encompass most of Asia. In New York, Vancouver, San Francisco, Los Angeles, London, Paris etc, HG has been immersed in the glories of the cuisines of Japan, Vietnam, Korea, Thailand, India, Malaysia, Ceylon, Indonesia and more. BSK and gifted daughter, Lesley R., are adroit cooks of Asian food. Last night. Lesley tickled taste buds with a Vietnamese starter and a Thai main dish. Starter was the Vietnamese staple:Salad rolls. Lesley moistened rice sheets, and before rolling them up, filled them with rice noodles and an array of fresh vegetables. Served them with a mix of fish sauce, hot sauce, vinegar, chopped herbs and chopped peanuts. Sublime dish. Main was Thai—a fragrant stew of ground pork, rice, coconut milk and an abundance of spices and herbs. Fabulous. The family champion of Asian food is son Jeremy. He and his wife, Maiko (a dazzling cook of Japanese food) live in Tokyo with their family and own and run Freeman Shokudo, an izakaya specializing in barbecue. Yes, there are Japanese dishes on the menu but the big favorite is pastrami, lovingly seasoned and smoked. Informed New Yorkers and Los Angelenos say it’s better than Manhattan Katz’s or L.A.’s Langer’s. Go figure.