HUNGRY GERALD

Very hot day on Prince Edward Island. Later in the day window adjustments were made capturing comforting oceanfront breezes. But, dinner (when the air was sweltering) was a tasty response to heat. Meal began with cold and delicious Colville Bay oysters, expertly shucked by HG/BSK’s distinguished son in law, Massimo R. Then, his wife, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R.,took over (with sous chef assistance from healthy BSK). The menu: Salmon mousse (scooped up with endive leaves). Sea scallop ceviche (a Lesley specialty). Newfoundland shrimp salad (another Lesley culinary gem). Bulgur rice and vegetable salad. Cold white wine was poured and the heat was beat. HG concluded with the usual dessert of French chestnut puree and squeeze can whipped cream accompanied by a glass of red wine. All in all, the ultimate warm weather dinner.

HG sighed a big sigh of relief. Beloved wife BSK tested negative for Covid. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., is making sure that BSK follows the right protocols including sufficient rest and sleep. Lesley and husband, Massimo, were invaluable during BSK’s difficult siege. So glad they were visiting HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home. What would handicapped HG and ill BSK have done without them? In addition to acting as doctor and nurse, they have done all the shopping, cooking, cleaning, etc. At the same time they were busy with their professional duties. HG did not suffer from culinary deprivation. Fish cakes (the best), chowders, salads, fried haddock, inventive pasta dishes, and more. Wonderful PEI and Quebec cheeses. Much red wine and Gahan’s Ale. Anxiety didn’t dull HG’s appetite.

Pre Covid. Dinner was Brandade and a PEI yellow bean salad (Seasonal yellow beans are a Prince Edward Island treat much enjoyed at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home.) Brandade (first tasted in a New York theater district French bistro of yesteryear), HG is fond of it–either plain and dusted with pepper and parmesan cheese–or in a gratin doused in heavy cream, topped with eggs and baked in a hot oven and browned under the broiler. BSK made the classic French Brandade from a recipe from Jaques Pepin (“Fast Food My Way” by JP). Brandade is usually made with salt cod (cooked after many rinses). BSK uses fresh cod from local seafood store and cooks it gently. This is mixed with garlic (much), olive oil. milk, fennel seeds. The mix made into a puree using a food processor. The result is tasty comfort. Leftover Brandade refrigerates without losing pungency and makes an excellent next day appetizer drizzled with a bit of olive oil (HG likes to top it with anchovies). Makes a wondrous breakfast when made into a pancake and gently browned. It’s the base for BSK’s matchless poached eggs. BSK was introduced to fresh cod Brandade by Marc Meyer, the renowned New York farm-to-table chef, when he visited PEI with wife, Victoria Freeman. (Vicki is HG’s daughter).Marc and Vicki are partners in The Bowery Group, which owns and runs five very good restaurants in downtown Manhattan –Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Rosie’s and Vic’s’). Fresh cod is a good idea. Saves time and lightens the Brandade without losing its garlic creaminess.

Alas, BSK has covid and has been isolated from BSK’s family. (sleeping in bedroom next to bathroom on upper level of HG/BSK’s oceanfront Prince Edward Island home.) Gifted daughter, Lesley R., with abundant hospital experience, has been taking thorough care of BSK and reports encouraging progress. So far, HG has not been infected but has much anxiety. (Slept alone last night. Felt odd.). A happy note. Lesley R . cooked dinner and it was a joy. First, there was an appetizer of her very good Newfoundland shrimp salad (perfect balance of mayo, lemon juice and herbs). Main dish was linguine with garlic scape pesto. This was mixed with yellow beans and cherry tomatoes. Pungent. Flavorful. HG drank a number of glasses of Montepulciano. Anxiety eased somewhat.

BSK makes sure HG eats plenty of vegetables. HG’s favorite way to eat them is in BSK’s wondrous pasta dishes. Here’s a partial list: Cauliflower in blue cheese (preferably Gorgonzola) sauce; sauteed asparagus with plentiful butter and lemon juice; zucchini strips with bacon and ricotta; eggplant (a la Norma); chopped raw beefsteak tomatoes (when in season and best in New Jersey). (partial list). BSK always chooses the appropriate pasta shape. BSK’s ultimate creation is penne in broccoli sauce (ate this last night with gusto). Ingredients are broccoli (of course), garlic, shallots, parsley (Italian), anchovies, olive oil, starchy pasta water, al dente penne. BSK blanches the broccoli in the water boiling for pasta. Cuts small broccoli florets and uses an immersion blender to convert the flavorful stems into very small pieces (not a puree). This is cooked with the aforementioned ingredients. A dusting of salt and pepper. HG likes to pour some olive  oil  over HG’s portion. A fabulous dish. HG first tasted this at the long closed Delsomma restaurant in New York’s theater district. Very good but BSK’s is better. Profesore Massimo R., HG/BSK’s distinguished son-in-law, had his first meal with HG/BSK many years ago at Delsomma. He looked like an Italian movie star (he’s aged well). Happily, the Profesore and wife, Lesley, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, have arrived for a Prince Edward Island visit with their delightful dog, Pip. Be assured that the broccoli pasta dish will be on the menu. Certainly, the family will devour PEI specialties: oysters, mussels, soft shell clams, etc.

HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo R., are with HG/BSK at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront nome. Joy is super abundant. L. and M. have been here for the past week. Feasting fun galore. Weather has been favorable. Sunny days for kayaking and beach frolics. (Needed rain today essential for flowers, lawn and BSK”s herb and vegetable garden. Weather report says sun to follow). Toby, The Wonder Dog, is a happy pup. His favorite companion and playmate, Pip (L. and M.’s intelligent dog) is here. Bow-Wow, Indeed. HG will detail tasty meals enjoyed in following posts. For now, HG will deal with the two sublime starters prepared by Lesley R.: Scallop ceviche and shrimp (small Newfoundland variety) salad. The thin slices of raw sea scallops are dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, scallions and a host of herbs. The shrimp salad has a mayonnaise, chopped parsley and lemon juice base. The ceviche and shrimp salad bring appetizers to a delightful pinnacle. The learned and brilliant Profesore Massimo R.has a distinctive role at dinner. He clears the table with alacrity and stacks the dishwasher with speedy precision. HG awards him A+ marks in dishwasher administration.

Cod is an important fish. Dried and then cooked in liquid, cod provided healthy sustenance for crews in sailing vessel days. It is the essential ingredient in the fabulous fish cakes fried by BSK and gifted daughter, Lesley R. Salt cod (soaked to remove salt) is combined with mashed potatoes, cream, garlic and olive oil to make Brandade, a dish favored by HG. Cod is one of the ingredients in BSK’s chowders (heartening in cool and breezy Prince Edward Island days). Last night, creative BSK brought cod to a high taste level at dinner. Filets were poached gently in a broth flavored by Japanese and Chinese spices and powders. Best cod HG ever tasted. It flaked with a touch of a fork and was juicy and sea flavored. BSK served it with fresh PEI yellow beans and small, boiled PEI potatoes. Adorned the cod with spoonfuls of Legal SeaFood Chipotle tartar sauce. Sumptuous eating.

Yes, HG relishes scallops–the hearty sea scallops and the very hard to find Nantucket bay scallops (HG last tasted them many decades ago). BSK cooks many sea scallop dishes with BSK’s usual flair and creativity. BSK gently sautes them in olive oil so they are lightly browned and juicy. They are served over greens flavored with a lemon vinaigrette; in linguine with garlic, oil and parsley; in chowder mixed with cod and other ingredients. HG’s favorite is BSK’s version of shrimp and grits. (BSK substitutes scallops for shrimp). Marc Meyer, is a super chef and the husband (plus business partner) of HG’s Daughter, Vicki. (Their company owns and  runs five touted New York restaurants (Shukette, Shuka,Vic’s, Rosie’s and Cookshop). He is a very superior sea scallop cook and has served HG many memorable scallops at Cookshop. At present, Cookshop has sliced raw scallops on its summer menu.They are served in a mix of oranges, limes and pungent chili peppers. Sounds like a summer treat. HG/BSK recall a fabulous feast of Nantucket bay scallops when HG/BSK owned a house on that island. Their caretaker, a native Nantucketer whose family had lived there for many generations, had gone to Nantucket Bay in a fishing boat and returned with a bushel of bay scallops. Still in his fishing clothes, he shucked them outside his home. Lucky HG/BSK were invited. HG/BSK ate scores of fresh from the sea succulent, small morsels of heaven. Incomparable.

HG has rarely had a superior poached egg in an American restaurant. They are good in French bistros (Exceptional appetizers when poached in red wine). BSK can poach an egg to perfection. When pricked with a fork, A BSK poached yolk floods food with richness and flavor. As a bonus, the egg whites are silky. For a breakfast treat, BSK tops buttery grits with the eggs. A periodic treat is Shakshuka, the spicy pepper and onion stew topped with poached eggs. (Very popular in Israel and throughout the Middle East and very good at Shuka restaurant in New York). HG makes a Greek yogurt sauce to accompany BSK’s Shakshuka (Yogurt, olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, zaatar, sumac, salt and pepper). Pita to soak up the lush eggs and red wine to drink. A happy time assured. Last night, HG cooked rice noodles in pho (From an Asian powder mix). Added lots of soft tofu. Flavored the pho with sesame oil and hot sauce. The final touch: BSK topped the steaming bowl with a perfect poached egg. Flavors galore. Ah, BSK, you enrich my life and palate every night and day as you have for 59 years.

Yes, HG was demolished by alcohol tonight. Noel & Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother-in-law) were at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home for an alternate week dinner.BSK served a spectacular dish of salmon with soba noodles and scallion broth (HG wrote about it some days ago on July 12). Generous N. and Y. brought tasty small potatoes and big bunches of fragrant lavender from their verdant Ocean Mist Farm on the south shore of PEI. Unfortunately, HG was not good company. After finishing the lovely food, HG retreated to a lounge chair and then, prone, to a sofa. A silent, eyes closed HG. Victim of alcohol. A large Negroni (whiskey, sweet vermouth, campari) before dinner. Then, white wine. and a large Gahan’s Red Ale with dinner. Farblunget. A lesson learned. From now on, a modest glass of white wine before dinner. One glass of wine with dinner. Okay, after dinner some sips of whiskey flavored with Angostura Bitters. Let’s see if this regimen makes HG a reasonable dining companion.