HUNGRY GERALD

The French dining authority, Curnonsky, said two important things about cuisine: “Things should taste of what they are.” and “Keep it simple.” BSK follows his example while adding an emphasis on locavore ingredients. Tonight, BSK cooked a classic Prince Edward Island dinner. The meal was prefaced by six PEI oysters (for HG). Then there was fresh Atlantic fried haddock; local potatoes moistened with olive oil and dusted with sea salt (PEI potatoes are grown in red tinged soil and have a mineral tang that makes them special); plump steamed seasonal asparagus topped with butter and lemon juice. BSK has a patch of rhubarb near BSK’s studio. Earlier in the day, BSK cooked some rhubarb and then mixed it with local strawberry jam. The resultant compote was extraordinary—sweet with a tart underpinning. HG topped vanilla ice cream with the compote and enjoyed a fabulous dessert. Yes, living is good on this democratic peaceful island. And, guns are not worshiped.

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June 3 was BSK’s birthday. Age is 81. Looks 35/40 years younger. Still slender, shapely, flexible with energy, creativity, strength, skills of all kinds undiminished by age. Some forty years ago, BSK was diagnosed with an allergy to crustaceans. In other words, if a sea critter had claws—lobster, shrimp,crab —BSK couldn’t eat it. Earlier this year, an examination revealed that the crustacean allergy had disappeared. So, BSK began enjoying shrimp again, But, it was only last night that BSK rediscovered lobster. Birthday dinner at Ocean Mist Farm, the verdant Prince Edward Island home of Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother in law). Yossi carefully steamed large lobsters. Noel made a tasty, herbaceous potato salad Despite the passing decades, BSK hadn’t forgotten her lobster cracking expertise. First taste of lobster. “Wow, so sweet, tender and delicious,” said BSK. Guess there will be much lobster in BSK’s future (including sumptuous lobster rolls at The Lobster Shack in the Town of Souris). Meal concluded with vanilla ice cream smothered in Noel’s rhubarb/strawberry compote. The meal ingredients were locavore. Potatoes, rhubarb, strawberries, and herbs were from Ocean Mist Farm. Lobsters came from the sea a few miles away. Ice cream from a PEI dairy. Yes, PEI provides a foodie feast.

Joy. HG/BSK have arrived on Prince Edward Island. Oceanfront home is clean and orderly. Alas, no propane gas and no internet. All remedied overnight. So, seafood feasting can begin. BSK was off to the local seafood market at nearby St. Peter’s landing and bought cod (infinitely better than USA or Norwegian cod); mussels (PEI mussels are best in North America); Red Head oysters (yum!). BSK made a lusty chowder with clam juice, hondashi flakes, chopped Italian parsley, chopped onion and garlic, and red pepper flakes. Mussels were big and plump. Cod was cooked to a perfect succulent point. Oh, my!! Good news was the fact that the dish was a “double header.” Explanation: Enough leftovers for a second dinner. The leftovers will be served over linguine tonight. Double dose of culinary pleasure.

HG/BSK had a jolly meal tonight in a St, John, New Brunswick, motel room (will be at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island summer paradise tomorrow). Tonight the feast was old-fashioned tomato and meat sauce lasagna plus much red wine.Gifted daughter Lesley R. bought the lasagna at a very good Italian grocery-delicatessen-restaurant in Providence. (Also purchased prosciutto, white anchovies, etc. for her hungry parents’ motor voyage. Lucky HG/BSK). As HG enjoyed the lasagna, HG speculated on food fashions. Lasagna, “Sunday gravy”, and other traditional southern Italian dishes are making a comeback (Northern Italian cuisine took over from “red sauce” some years ago). Yes, food fashions come and go. Kale was the fashionable vegetable for a few years and has been overtaken by cauliflower (Many fast food highway restaurants are serving fried cauliflower nuggets as a French fry alternative. Salt caramel is now a very popular ice cream flavor. Some fast food places now offer salt caramel smoothies. HG’s favorite ice cream flavor is Maple Walnut. Butter Pecan remains but Maple Walnut has disappeared. A pity.

Still on the road. A few observations: Billboards herading porn stores out number billboards praising Christ. Injury lawyer billboards are voluminous. (In HG’s youth, injury lawyers were looked down upon as “ambulance chasers.”) Still dependent on fast food chains for luncheon nourishment. HG has been intrigued by Taco Bell’s advertising for Chalupas. So, HG bought some for car front seat dining. W/ell,, the Chalupas in the ads were mouthwatering The Chalupas that HG/BSK ate were not. HG was an ad victim. BSK has been driving through hellish weather. The midwest seems to be gripped by monsoons (with an occasional tornado in Indiana)..Dinner in HG/BSK’s motel room was pleasant. BSK microwaved packaged Pho. The broth had zest and the noodles were al dente. Nice Asian surprise.

Yes, the virtuoso long distance driver, BSK, is at the wheel of BSK’s new Toyota. Driving 450 miles a day on the waay to Prince Edward Island, Canada, with a stop at Providence to see gifted Daughter Lesley R. and convalescing Pip. (The lovely dog was attacked by a pit bull but is recovering). Covid variations are keeping HG/BSK away from restaurants. Dining in motel rooms on wondrous Whole Foods soups, Subway sandwiches (passable fast food), Chobani yogurt, fruit etc. No, it’s not gourmandising. But, tummies are not complaining. An HG discovery:Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Italian Montepulciano red wine make a happy dessert.

Sour cream (“Smetana” in Russian) was omnipresent in the Bronx cuisine that nourished young HG. Mom and Pop grew up in Belarus so this was only natural. Huge amounts of sour cream are devoured throughout Russia (on a rough camping trip through Siberia, author Ian Frazier was astonished at the amount of Smetana his Russian companions ate). Mom served boiled potatoes with a bowl of Smetana. This was often accompanied by schmaltz or pickled herring. Schav (chilled sorrel soup) and Borscht (chilled beet soup) were topped with Smetana and eaten with the boiled potato/Smetana combo. Smetana topped bowls of raw chopped carrots, onions and radishes (summer dish); Smetana was also mixed with pot cheese, cottage cheese or farmer cheese, Dessert (or breakfast) was sliced bananas or seasonal berries topped with Smetana (and a drizzle of honey). Mom bought her Smetana from Daitch Dairy (years before it became Daitch-Shopwell). Rich and tangy stuff. Better than today’s product, but HG makes do. Dinner last night was BSK’s lush tomato/garbanzo/chicken broth soup. HG enjoyed two steaming bowls. Topped them with–guess what?–Smetana.

Yes, revolution and geopolitical horror create American taste treats. On every level, the Vietnamese War was a disaster for America.Terrible waste of American lives and resources (And, death and destruction for Vietnamese). Food result: Banh Mi sandwiches (Baguette, pate, pickles, pork, mayo) are an American lunch treat (especially in New York and LA).. Vietnamese restaurants specializing in Pho and other good things are ubiquitous in The Land of The Free, Brave and Crazy. Postwar, the Japanese conflict and unspeakable Japanese nuclear deaths, brought Sushi to thousands of USA restaurants (and supermarkets) Only billionaires can afford the very best. When Castro overthrew Batista, many Cuban Chinese emigrated to the USA. They opened Cuban-Chinese restaurants in the United States. Favorites of HG. There used to be many. Don’t know if there are any left. HG dined on black beans and rice (“moros y cristianos”),crisp fried shrimps; avocado and orange salads; Grilled Cubano sandwiches; excellent black coffee. So, what will Ukraine bring?

If HG could be granted one final meal (just before leaving for heavenly–??–realms) it would be at Le Dome on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris. Simple, madly expensive, superlative dining. Starter would be a dozen Gillardeau oysters (impeccably shucked, briny, served with buttered brown bread). The wine: A modest Muscadet. This would be followed by large boned filets of ultimate quality Dover Sole swimming in the best French butter with a hint of lemon juice. The wine: Sancerre. Dessert would be Berthillon ice cream. Black coffee and a snifter of Vielle Prune would be the finale before the finale. Real Dover Sole is rare in the United States. Doesn’t travel well. Surprisingly, some years ago, HG had a fine Dover Sole at a Legal Seafoods Restaurant in Boston. Never saw it on the menu again. HG discovered two Pacific Ocean sole-like treats at the venerable Tadich Grill in San Francisco: Petrale Sole and Sand Dabs. (preceded by sloe gin fizzes, of course). Sand dabs aren’t shipped to Santa Fe but Petrale Sole often makes a welcome presence at Whole Foods. HG or BSK usually fry or saute it. But, last night, influenced by a Melissa Clark NY Times recipe, BSK cooked it in the oven on a sheet pan and it rested gently on a bed of thinly sliced red peppers. There were BSK’s creative additions of olive oil, garlic, butter, herbs, dash of hot sauce. Very tasty. Not Le Dome, but gifted BSK comes close.

New Mexico is the USA home of the very best chili, red and green. (Chilis turn from green to red as they ripen). Many fans of New Mexican cuisine order their enchiladas “Christmas”. That means the enchilada is flanked by red sauce and green sauce. HG prefers green chili. BSK relies upon green chili sauce to enliven many dishes. Last night, BSK made a lush pot of chicken in green chili sauce. (BSK’s pork green chili stew is one of HG’s favorite cold weather meals). Shakshuka, the Middle Eastern (omnipresent in Israel) egg and vegetable stew is another HG fave. BSK made a five egg version last week. HG thought it the best ever. It had a desirable level of spicy heat. You guessed it. BSK had added a healthy amount of green chilis to the stew. Dish was topped with Harissa for additional fire. (HG cooled it down with a side dish of Greek yogurt swirled with olive oil, cumin and zaatar).