HUNGRY GERALD

HG/BSK’s beautiful Prince Edward Island friend and neighbor, Leslie F., was the dinner guest last night. BSK made one of her signature dishes: Spatchcocked chicken (Backbone is cut out and the bird is flattened). In Paris. the chicken is also dubbed “Crapaudine” because when flattened the chicken is shaped like a frog. Call it what you will, this is the best way to cook a chicken . The nation of Georgia has a tasty version and other lands use the “chicken under a brick” technique. Big difference last night was the marinade–the garlic-ginger marinade from the”Indian-Ish” cookbook (check HG’s “Indian-Ish” post for the recipe). The chicken marinated in the refrigerator (in a sealed plastic bag) for about six hours. Then, into the oven. The result was an incomparable bird. BSK accompanied it with a pot of couscous moistened with chicken stock. (A worthy rival to the couscous served in Paris Arab eateries). There were also some buttery yellow beans to nibble plus Harissa (fiery Moroccan condiment) to add piquant notes to the couscous. A sumptuous meal.

This is a cookbook that as author Priya Krishna comments, contains “recipes from a modern American family.”. That is, the recipes are American with Indian flavors; most of the ingredients can be found at a local supermarket (or online for some esoteric spices). This is the marinade for “Garlic-Ginger Chicken With Mint And Cilantro”: Garlic, ginger, mint, cilantro,lemon juice, oil,, are crushed into a paste..Turmeric, coriander, chile and salt are mixed in a small bowl and added to the garlic-ginger-mint, etc. paste. The marinade is rubbed into cut up chicken thighs. It all goes into a tightly sealed plastic bag and left to marinate overnight (or two or three hours if you’re in a hurry). Stove top cooking is low and slow. The result is charred, juicy, spicy chicken. BSK followed the recipe and accompanied the dish with chutneys and a lush Raita (Greek yogurt, BSK garden cucumbers and radishes; lemon juice and a splash of olive oil) Pot of fluffy Basmati rice (HG topped his rice with Kitchens of India Dal). Joy burnished the dining table at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. HG raised a glass to toast Priya Krishna’s aunt Sonia who inspired this lusty chicken dish.

The French culinary icon, Escoffier, once noted that simple dishes were the best. HG’s son-in-law, the esteemed chef Marc Meyer, has been a pioneering locavore, a creator of lusty farm to table pleasures. At HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home last night, BSK created a meal that was simple, local and very tasty. First, there was a platter of local, seasonal sweet corn. One of life’s supreme pleasures. (Garrison Keillor has said sweet corn is better than sex. Hmmmmmm???).This was followed by steamed soft shell clams from a local shore. Grit free and juicy (HG joyously drank a cup of the robust broth). Salad of sliced local tomatoes and cucumbers from BSK,s garden, dressed with pesto left over from a previous meal. You won’t go wrong if you follow the guidance of Escoffier and Meyer.

BSK was shopping at the Sobey’s Supermarket in the Prince Edward Island Town of Montague. BSK passed the Garofalo display in the pasta aisle (HG/BSK agree: Garofalo is the best pasta brand). BSK spotted a package of potato gnocchi. Believing in the brand, BSK bought it. BSK had never tasted gnocchi and HG did only once; despite gnocchi being on the menu of most Italian restaurants and some French bistros. So, it was gnocchi for dinner last night. BSK made a superlative pesto sauce using walnuts instead of pignolias. A saute of garden baby zucchini cubes in olive oil and garlic was mixed with the pesto and the combination was poured over the gnocchi with a dusting of parmesan and red pepper flakes. Well, the sauce was delicious and would enhance any dish. The gnocchi? Just okay. Once more, HG/BSK were in culinary agreement. It would have been better eating if the lusty sauce covered penne or orecchiette. Gnocchi has admirers. HG/BSK are not among them.

Yes, that’s the brand name–Just Soup. And, that’s what it is Tasty, natural soup (no artificial ingredients) that come in tall glass jars (two helpings in a jar). HG’s lunch today was Creamy Tomato Basil Soup. Best tomato soup ever. Hit the spot as HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home is in the midst of cool autumn breezes. HG accompanied the soup with whole wheat toast topped with melted feta cheese. A bit reminiscent of boyhood lunches (80 and more years ago). HG’s beloved late Mom would mix a can of Campbell’s Tomato Soup with a can of whole milk (skim milk was unheard in those cholesterol days). This was accompanied by a pumpernickel and Velveeta melted cheese sandwich. HG misses Pechter’s or Stuhmer’s pumpernickel bread but all of the ingredients of HG’s PEI lunch are better than those in The Bronx of yesteryear. Just Soup is a BSK discovery. One more example of BSK’s thoughtfulness. Responding to cool weather and HG’s handicapped swallowing, BSK has stockpiled a variety of soups and broths (including Vietnamese Pho). Just heat and swallow easily. HG is very lucky to have BSK as a diet supervisor and superlative home cook. Of, course this only scratches the surface of BSK’s talents, skills and the love she extends to HG and the entire HG\BSK family.

The first days of autumn have arrived on Prince Edward Island. No September seasonal hurricanes (fingers are crossed) but chill winds caress HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. Leaves will begin turning later in the month or early October making the Island ablaze with glorious color. As they pronounce it here and in New England, “Chowda” is a leading comfort food in brisk weather. BSK made a creative, super tasty “Chowda” last night. BSK borrowed an element from the New England version (skim milk instead of cream). BSK simmered sliced sea scallops, potatoes, corn kernels, chopped onions,and garlic; capers,herbs in a pot of clam broth, white wine and a smidgen of skim milk. Seasoned with hot sauce, salt and pepper, this fabulous dish was sea and farm goodness in a bowl.

BSK has been buying oysters this year from Julio’s Seafood, an excellent store just a short distance from HG/BSK’s oceanfront Prince Edward Island home. (Julio’s recently expanded to include an oyster bar). The oysters (South Lake, Brackley Beach, Colville Bay, etc.) have been tasty and economical—$1.25 Canadian each ($1.00 US). Restaurant oysters in the USA are $3 to $4 each making them an expensive starter to a meal. Before Julio’s opened this year, HG bought oysters at Atlantic Shellfish in the town of Morell. HG always received great service with the manager hand selecting HG’s favorite large Malpeques. HG paid Atlantic Shellfish a visit a few days ago. No Malpeques but the manager picked out 20 extra large and plump South Lakes. HG had a half dozen last night. A revelation. HG has enjoyed oysters from locations throughout Europe, the United States and Canada (Vancouver’s Rodney’s Oyster Bar is a favorite). So, HG has an educated oyster palate and HG states, without equivocation, Atlantic Shellfish’s South Lakes are the best oysters in the world. A big briny oyster with a depth of flavor and a lush mouth feel. A true taste of the sea.

A young, whiskey drinking HG began HG’s journalism career on the five to one PM news desk shift at International News Service/ International News Photos (both later absorbed by United Press). Then, off to Dubiner’s Bar and Restaurant on Stanton Street (LES) for dinner. Whiskey. Gefilte fish with pungent horseradish. More whiskey. “Cholent” (long overnight simmered Jewish meat and vegetable stew covered with fried onions and garlic served with sour pickles and hot pickled peppers on the side). More whiskey after dinner with raffish companions (cops, bail bondsmen, loan sharks, criminals). Laughter. Colorful stories of crime, sex, corruption, etc. Accompanied by whiskey, of course. Dubiner’s closed at four AM. HG and companions walked to an after hours joint (it masqueraded as a luncheonette). Tipsy (polite synonym for “drunk”) HG had more whiskey and a special (gratis) dish of pieces of crisp fried fish smothered in crushed garlic. With a sprinkle of kosher salt, the fish was sublime (being drunk helped). Staggered off to Second Avenue Baths for steam, eucalyptus room sauna, hot shower, ice plunge, Then, restful sleep in bed partition. Woke to a hearty breakfast and a day and night of news, booze and unhealthy food (7 PM snack was pickled pig’s knuckle, hard boiled egg and beer at the Mirror Bar). So, how has HG managed to live to 92? Credit The Wonder Woman, BSK (best wife, lover, caretaker, cook, handywoman, financial and household manager, and more. Much more. Lucky HG.

HG/BSK are lucky to have a source of fresh fish caught off the shores of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. The source is Julio’s Seafood, located in the town of St. Peter’s which is only a short drive for BSK. (Juilio just added an oyster bar to his store). BSK is a very good customer so BSK gets alerts about favorite fish. A few days ago, BSK got a hake alert. so, creative BSK cooked a pan of sliced potatoes, chopped garlic and many herbs and spices in olive oil and mussel broth (the broth was a leftover from a previous meal). When the potato mix was nearly done, BSK placed hake slices on top. The fish was steamed and then crisped under the broiler. Once more, BSK achieved a taste triumph. On another night, the fish star was tuna. For years, HG/BSK never tasted fresh caught PEI tuna. Japanese would buy the fish and fly them to the Tokyo fish market. This year, however, some fresh tuna has been reserved for PEI gourmands. A tuna alert for BSK and delights ensued. BSK seared slices of tuna to perfection (browned on the outside and raw inside. This was served over warmed cannellini beans mixed with lemon juice, lime juice;chopped garlic, parsley and dill. HG sprinkled some Vietnamese fish sauce on the tuna. HG declared this the best tuna dish ever. (Canned tuna–Italian or Spanish–mixed with Goya cannellini beans, chopped garlic, olive oil and chopped parsley is delightful when you don’t want to cook).

HG had a very thorough eye examination by a Charlottetown, PEI, optometrist. Good results. HG has healthy eyes (needs eye drops and the removal of lens film by an ophthalmologist). Long auto trips and cool weather left HG needing the warmth of a comfy dinner. And, that’s what HG received from caring BSK. There was “green soup”, a tasty melange of pureed vegetables and chicken broth creatively spiced by BSK and served very hot (as soup should be). It is also served at SJ and wife, Maiko’s Tokyo izakaya, Freeman Shokudo. BSK’s comfort meal also included a good baguette, a mind blowing cheese (Cow’s Triple Creme Bleu); much red wine. HG had the usual dessert of French chestnut puree and whipped cream. A happy comforted HG.